Get a manual it will be your best investment ever!
google seal kits or check the shop on this site for a complete kit
as long as the both have two piece shafts then yes they are interchangeable
lol why knot;
Engine: 1990 Force 90hp
Prop: 17P alu, no cup
Boat: 18' Bayliner bowrider with lots of water in foam factory weight + ? lbs
Top Speed & RPMs: 33-36 mph @5500rpms GPS / on gauge 45 mph.
Load: one adult
Gas mileage: not bad at all
If you want to go that route? I would NOT pull out the screw completely but far enough so I can slide the O ring over the head and pray it works.
pressurize to 5 psi and check for leaks then fill the cavity with silicone
The link I send has the testing procedure of the trigger ( DVA adapter is required)
If you have a Factory manual; the testing procedure will be in there as well
If I may add; Make sure you are cranking the engine with a TESTED GOOD battery! a weak battery will not spin fast enough to produce enough electricity to create spark.
Maybe you have an aftermarket CDI trigger-assembly on it?
Here's a link to diagnose the Ignition / wires
start around page #18
https://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/CDI%20Troubleshooting%20Guide%20-%202012.pdf
As mentioned before; be very very careful installing them, they break easily!!
also when ready to place the half make sure the openings are turned down so you know they're seated right.
Inspect the gasket between the block and adapter-plate as these most likely the blow
For more engine info; post your question(s) in the force engine section as the blocks are identical
IF... this is the port I'm thinking it is, then that port is blocked WHEN a choke-solenoid/plunger style choke is used. with a fuel-enricher system a hose would hooked to that
When you put the crank in, did make sure that the crank-seals between the cylinders are placed properly before bolting it together?
what type of sealer did you use between the two halves?
Maybe a picture of you (new) block will shed some info on what version of block you're working.
