ouch
the bottom of the hull is wrinkled. that will severely affect performance
most likely you will need to pull the motor/drive
remove rivets from between the seams
straighten out the transom
straighten out the bottom
re-seal and re-rivet the bits.
however I would be calling the insurance...
motors with transmissions are set up different than motors with outdrives
the long block is the same, some of the accessories are the same.
however exhaust, flywheel housing, and coupler is different.
See post #5
where they sonically check the wall thicknesses prior to machining
you to know that a new block is less money than a line-hone, re-size of mains, deck, bore and hone of a used block
check with your machine shop, need to run a bore gauge down the holes and do a sonic check
every block is different. generally, .060 is doable on most blocks, however core shifts, etc happen
factory GM balancing is +/- 29 grams - lots of shaking going on
the 4.3 also has a really bad firing imbalance (look at the crank throws and you get the picture. this is tied to the cam comment above
while you can get more RPM out of a 4.3 with a fat wallet, by the time you are done, you...
if your 1990 SR has a Mk 4 motor and not a Gen V motor the long block will swap over (the accessories wont)
generally inboards have different flywheel housings, starters, exhaust, etc.
@2550SX do you have the cam duration and the LSA for the cam?
many marine cams are between 108 and 214 lobe centerline, however need to know the overlap (marine engines you do not want any overlap)
post the complete cam card with duration at both 0" and the published 0.050" as well as the lobe...
Start with rotor at bottom notch (at 7 oclock), as you drop it in, it will spin around to notch at 3 oclock. May have to spin motor to get dizzy to drop into pump shaft
only way to check is test drill
if the shavings are light-colored, dry and smell like fresh cut wood, you are good to go
if the shavings are dark-colored, wet and smell like rotten mulch, you cut out the floor
