2# foam references how many pounds per cubic foot of volume
so a 4# kit of 2# foam is 2 cubic feet
a 16# kit is 8 cubic feet of 2# foam
so, measure how much volume you have, then order the size of kit that will fill that volume.
smooth valve covers means you have a 1991-1995 gen V motor (the 1996-2000 came originally with ribbed valve covers)
you can confirm as the timing cover should have 10 bolts vs the 6 on the 1996-2000 gen 6 motors
what is your fuel pressure? should be between 3 and 5 psi
I agree that $5k is a bit heavy. however if stored in a climate-controlled environment, and it turns over maybe $3500. all the rubber bits will need to be replaced (rubber life is 15 years max) along with the gear lube, etc.
if stored in a damp basement you may be looking at wall-art in that...
I would pull the motor and replace everything aft of the motor myself.
yes, because if the impact broke things outside the boat, is most likely broke things in the boat
at a minimum you should inspect. this would be an insurance claim.
first, welcome aboard
you have 1-piece engine killer manifolds on your 4.3? I would switch them to the new 2-piece.
there is no such thing as a good 1-piece manifold, AKA "Batwing" AKA "engine killer"
because of the casting process, and the core shift that happens with every cast product...
Carb or efi?
Smooth valve covers or ribbed? (gen 5 or gen 6 identification)
6 bolt or 10 bolt timing cover (gen 5 or gen 6 identification)
Fuel pressure?
Compression numbers?
You may find used.
However used manifolds are like buying used depends......
Remember, boating is an expensive hobby, and $1200 for an aluminum manifold that is no longer available from the manufacturer is a deal
you cant unmake bad gas. once gas turns to varnish, your only choice is to pump it out, pay to dispose of it, clean the whole fuel system and then start over with fresh gas
or weld a plate on the end of the PDS shaft, and use the porta-power to pull it off the motor........ you would need a new PDS shaft and flex plate at that point
a good mechanic has permatex #1, #2, and #3 (aviation) on hand along with 4 different loc-tite compounds and both copper and moly based lubricants and a tube of tef-gel
use the permatex #3 (aviation sealer)
first, welcome aboard
the downside to most 70's and 80's mercury outboards are the wiring harnesses falling apart. the insulation lasts only about 15 years. the Mice didnt help
the two common choices are buy a new harness or build a new harness.
could be bravoitis
the brown rubber bits are now toast....... literally. you need new exhaust rubber bits including the flappers.
rubber bits are good for 250 degrees F max. exhaust temperatures without water are 1100-1400 degrees. the rubber bits never stood a chance.
Primary Drive Shaft. the "bell housing" on the AQ series drives is known as the PDS housing.
to remove the drive, pull the shift cover off the drive, disconnect the shift cable, disconnect the helmet use 1/4-20 screws (or 1/4-28 dont remember) to drive the helmet pin out. remove the pins...
