looks like a XL motor (25") on a short shaft transom (15")
the Anti-Ventilation plate should be even or even 1" above the bottom of the keel, not 12" lower
Gauges are easy
I = Ignition (purple)
GND = Ground (black)
L = Light (dark blue)
S = Signal
tan = water temp
light blue = oil pressure
grey = tach
pink = fuel
in 50 years of playing with carbs, only once have I experience a carb that was actually bad. that was because it was full of water for 3 years. all other carbs can be gone thru
you have a points issue and a bad connection issue
start at the battery and work your way to the helm cleaning every connection with 150 grit sand paper making them shiny enough your mother-in-law will eat off them. then file your points, set the dwell, and set timing.
kind of.
most marine 5.0 fords used the 5.8 heads and cam. so you have to verify firing order BEFORE you buy parts, and you most likely have to build a motor.
any truck motor you start with will need to be stripped down to just the longblock and built back up as a marine motor with brass core...
Salt water or fresh water?
Aluminum, wood, or fiberglass?
Barrier coat and bottom paint are something you can DIY. Materials about $1k
Springlines, mooring whips, bumpers, extra bilge pump
Overhead crane at work a few times
Wood gantry twice
Kids swing set a few times
A-frames have wheels, used them a few times. Even bought a harbor freight A-frame and hoist off CL, used if gor a while and then resold it
BT has a point. Check the clear tygon tube going from the fuel pump to the carb
If there is fuel in there, your fuel pump has failed
If no fuel, check pressure. If over 9psi, it will push the needle open
