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Well, I bet you guys thought I gave up (or wished I gave up) but I'm alive and well and still working on my electric boat. When last I posted I had bought a pontoon boat with fiberglass pontoons that I planned to go electric with but that boat was not very streamlined so I sold it and got some...

I got a new plug at NAPA today. The guy there said a CR6HSA would be hotter, BUT, BUT it turned out, that was what was in the motor already so I got the plug that was recommended for the motor (CR5HSB) and it seems much better.

I have a Honda 2HP that I rescued, and it burns oil so I want to try using a hotter plug to keep the plug from fouling. The recommended plug is a CR5HSB. What would be a step hotter?

So, just got back from a test run with the new CDI. All the old connections were clean but I shmutzed the new ones up with dialectric grease for good measure. I adjusted the linkage 2 turns which put the timing arrow on the marks. Checked with a timing light and it was bouncing between 6 and 8...

No, I didn't. When I removed the adjustment arm from the CDI, the brass threaded piece moved and made crunching sounds. It appeared to have gotten very hot.

It was not the fuel pump. It was the CDI. So, for this motor I have bought, Water Pump Drive Shaft Seal Carb Kits Spark Plugs Coils with Leads Fuel Lines Fuel Pump and a CDI About $700 Total but if I now have a motor that is trouble free for years I guess it was worth it.

Ordered a new fuel pump, even though the old one is prob working ok I really didn't like the looks of the diaphragm so, like the coils, time for a new one anyway.

thanks racer but that was before the carbs were rebuilt and afterwards I said all 3 acted exactly the same

This motor on startup behaves just like any other 50HP 2 Stroke Yamaha that I have run, it starts right up, has a slight high idle for about 10 seconds then slows down to a smooth regular idle. Never a miss and never doesn't start. Idling down the canal and out onto the bay not the slightest...

My experience with bad fuel pumps, clogged filters, kinked hoses and all that rot is that it makes for much more sputtering and such. The way this cycles as if exactly timed makes me think it's electronic, like a capacitive circuit and as luck will have it, my girlfriends boat has the same...

already tried that, thanks.

I'll check tomorrow.

This just in!!! Dramatic footage of the issue. (for the full effect, turn up your volume.) In this video you will hear the boat rev up and slow down 3 times without touching the throttle and it will just keep doing this forever.

This motor has given me no end of problems. Took it out today after rebuilding the carbs and replacing 3 coils. Before that work it would not get up on plane. It idled OK and ran smooth at low RPM but ran rough and bogged at full throttle moving at a steady crawl. Now, after the work it takes...

Well, that was fun. Took her out for a test drive. I was hoping for a calmer day but got tired of waiting. She did 3.6 mph into a 15 mph wind and 4.6 downwind ( I don't know which way the current was going). I thought it wasn't too bad for a little 2/3 HP electric lawn mower motor. I had 4...

You guys....... There won't be any wind turbines on this boat nor any hertz changes. There won't be any dams either however there may be a few "damn's" as I tweak things. Just a simple little solar powered boat with some battery backup.

I think with today's far more efficient panels you could probably get in the neighborhood of 2 kilowatts with a 8 x 12 roof but the main point I'm trying to make is any solar you add extends your range.

I don't doubt that boats claim of 20+ mph but what gets me is they have an opportunity to extend range by adding a hardtop that is solar pv panels. If you park the boat when you go to use it in a few days it has recharged itself, when you cruise 35 minutes out to the sand bar and then socialize...

So, having rotated my work through several other projects, I'm back on my electric motor. As I said earlier, this project is all about the mounting bracket that aligns the motor with the driveshaft. I realized I was wasting time trying to work around the bottom cowling just so I could re-use the...

Thanks Boscoe, that's exactly what I have. I fixed the problem. Turns out (I'm ashamed to say) all it was, was a corroded connection on the switch and why I didn't check that first is beyond me.