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Also, before I do any damage, I want to flush water through the motor to check for obstruction. Starting at the T-stat opening (with the lower unit off) I want to shoot water and/or air in both sides. Then backwards through the exhaust where the tell tale exits and up through the water tube...

Thanks Bosco, that 2 stroke diagram looks just like my 50HP. In my case it sure looks like a very cruddy Thermostat making problems but I want to flush water back and forth through the passages while I have the lower unit and thermostat out and that diagram and flow chart is just what I needed.

Trying to educate myself tonight to solve overheating issues on several motors. I'm looking for the path cooling water takes through a Yamaha "2 Stroke" , such as - Pickup - Water pump -Thermostat - Exhaust - Cylinders - Exhaust - Prop Not sure if I have that in the right order. Also, as far...

Thanks Bob but there's no free energy. If the boat is moving under it's own power then the power the generators produce would be less than the power that the drag they produce consumes. Solar power is far, far more efficient than wind or hydro (at least for this purpose) and here in the Florida...

Very true WaterRat, as much as people complain about high electric bills, electricity is if fact produced far more efficiently than other sources of energy (except maybe nuclear)

Well, I see you guys have been talking amongst yourselves while I tended to other matters and I think that's great. Now I'm back. Sold my houseboat, sold my RIB tender and sold the Sundance Skiff project and now with room in the yard I'm back to the electric boat project. I did get the motor out...

Congrats Beth. I just sold my houseboat and understand your enthusiasm. If I could give you some advice. You said your first order of business was to put gas in it. One thing you should be aware of is that vapors from fuel can build up inside a boat and if not vented properly cause an explosion...

No, I have not. Having built my own wind turbine from scratch years ago I know that the physics of wind power do not go well with a project of this sort. The amount of energy a wind turbine can produce is a mathematical formula based on the area of the circle defined by the rotor, and for a...

Just noticed this, check out the rudder type attachment on the cavitation plate of the big motor behind the Yamaha 25

Thank you Sea Rider and 99Yam. This thread can close and I hope it helps someone in the future.

So, tested the motor and heard a very loud "open headers exhaust" sound. I feared I screwed up on the gasket but realized it was just the exhaust coming out the hole by the shift linkage where I removed a rubber access plug. Plugged the hole and all is well. Will run the motor some more to heat...

The manual I have simply says to use a new gasket. If your manual says different I'd be interested to hear what to do.

ok, I just had an urge to be a rebel without a clue.

I think I'll just put the gasket in as is, no schmutz, clean and grease the bolts without anti seize but as to following the manual, well, it would have had me do a ridiculous amount of unnecessary work, completely removing the power head just to change this gasket. Sometimes I just don't go "by...

Yes SeaRider, I didn't mention 2 of the bolts were hard to get out. I would only give them about a 1/32 of a turn at a time between slowly removing the other bolts until they all came out without snapping and you can see the corrosion on them in the pic. I will surely clean and grease them with...

so, next using a razor blade and super fine sandpaper I cleaned the areas for the new gasket, part #6EE-45113-00-00. I have placed the new water tube and rubber bushing approximately where it will be installed but did not yet slide the bushing into the slot as I am waiting on a new gasket. So...

OK, so through a mix of research and ciphering I got this figured out and in an effort to close this thread and help some other poor soul I'll document my adventures... I am going to post this in several posts rather than one big one to make sure the dog does not eat my homework before I hit...

Worked on my motor today, got rid of the vice grips holding things together. Runs smoother and quieter. Here's a test, first at 6 volts, then 12 volts then 18 volts. The motor is rated to 24 volts.

This is the best part diagram I saw and it sure looks like I need to pull the powerhead. OK, looks like all I need to do is remove 6 bolts, the fuel line and the throttle cable and then hope I don't snap any bolts.

Awwww, c'mon. Anyone?