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;If you ran it a long time while it was starving for gas, that could have caused the problem. But if it has oil injection, that cylinder should have gotten oil even if it wasn't getting fuel. If a carb is clogged and there's no oil injection, the cylinder won't get fuel/oil mixture, so it runs...

Those old motors just require a screwdriver and a pair of pliers to repair!! What specifically are you trying to do? There's old-timers here that I'm sure can answer specific questions. I've often found repair manuals for older motors in the reference section of my local public library...

The gauge is actually an ohm meter. Yeah, you fried it. Best way to test the sending unit is with an ohm meter. Don't buy a cheap gauge off of Amazon. The really cheap ones work backwards!! My son has one installed on his boat. Also, the sending uinit should have the ohm range stamped on...

Replace your water pump impeller. How's the motor running? A lean condition will cause overheat also.

What's your motor's WOT range? I'd keep the prop that keeps in the top half of the max RPM range. My Yamaha 115 2-stroke has a recommended WOT range of 4500-5500. I run a prop that gets to 5200 RPM's at WOT. I think that's the perfect prop for me.

I don't think any standard marine battery switch will work the way you want it to. Draw out the wiring including the "+" and "-" and how they connect to the switch and you'll see what I mean.

Wait. You took your boat in for service and it came back with a problem, and you come here looking for answers? I can't understand that! Only the guy that screwed it up needs to be trying to figure out the problem. This is crazy!

I've had two separate friends that each went in with someone and bought a boat. In one situation one of the guys got a divorce and could no longer afford any of the cost of the boat, (including the payments), but had a very high estimate of what it should cost to buy him out of the deal. The...

The pitch of the prop is the theoretical distance it should travel in one revolution. If it's a 21 pitch prop and you change to a 19 pitch prop, it will give you higher RPM's, less strain on the motor, and will help you plane quicker.

90 seonds is probably not enough time for it to prime and get all the air out of the system. Let it run several minutes. You did put the key back in the shaft, right?

Go to any ACE hardware store. They'll have a thread gauge.. Bolts and nuts mounted to a board where you can screw yours in until you find the one that fits.

Fill the boat partially with water and just jacking up the tongue of the trailer and look for water running out. You'll want to try bow up and bow down if you have trouble looking for the leak. Much easier to locate water coming out than water getting in.

I'm guessing in the second picture those two ends represent the end of the one that is attached to the buckle and the end of the one that is bare on the end. just my assumption.

You say you took it all apart and cleaned it up. Did the gear slide up and down the shaft when it was all apart? I've had the same problem on electric start motors and a good shot of WD40 on the shaft thatthe gear rides on did the trick with no probmes. I believe your gear is plastic or...

About 10 years ago, I did purchase one. A cheap one from Harbor Freight. Self fed wire welder. It only caused frustration. Not really heavy duty enough to do anything I wanted to do. I've looked at some used ones from time to time, but now my boating takes up most of my spare time (and...

When you rebuilt the carbs did you order carb kits? I've attached a link to a blow up diagram of your carbs. Did you remove the plug #2 and clean the passages in there. That's part of your idle circuit. The kit will contain the replacement plug. That's pretty critical stuff under that plug...

You guys that know how to weld can do anything!! That's something I've always wanted to learn, but this old dog ain't got time to learn new tricks!!

I've attached a blown up diagram of your carb. I hope it's yours, the year model is 1988. If it's been sitting 12 years, I'm sure all the gas evaporated in the carbs and that usually leaves a good coat of sticky varnish on the internals. You can buy a gallon can of carb cleaner with a basket...

If you can't idle, I'd focus on the idle circuit. You'll need to order carb kits and remove the plugs #4 and #5, and clean up the idle jet #38. The carb kits will come with replacement plugs.

If it cranks on starter fluid, it's a fuel delivery problem. Send me the year of the motor and I'll send you a diagram of your carb and let you know what to focus on in cleaning it up.