Search results

Yep...One lean spit/backfire the reed will split or break a tip. Better to go with CCMS or Tony D's reeds as they are direct replacements.

You have to turn it to manual to use injection feature

I6 lowers will fit but makes em a dog even when reducing prop size...just makes em good for riding and crusing.

That engine never was offered as a performance model. RPM is 4800-5200, anything over that power drops off and runs risk of breaking piston skirts as piston is a crossflow type design

1st Gen 2.4 V-6.....what is compression

You will need to reshim the unit or new gears will fail.

1995-96

Nope ..Nada

Soak in carbon guard or Seafoam , rinse with rubbing alcohol

Dump em out quick as the earlier valve had nylon balls and acetone will damage the plastic. Rinse em out with syringe and 50:1 mix the check to see if salvageable

Tis combination of stainless and nickel and is heat hardened at pinion bearing. They snap right above heat treat, just take right rpm and shock to gearing

No need...start it up and pull the line. Valve should spray fine mist like paint can, if dribbles out or blows blobs valve needs cleaning or replaced

Da ones in red..

Primer nipples are free flow as when the primer is off it is the check valve.

What size toon? I have a 25ft Lowes with a 150(reinforced transom) and run a Solas 15x15 @ 5400rpm (1" carbs) and run low 30's mph

Drive em in with a 5/32 deep well socket, taper locks em in

.015 to.022 is good. The newer supplied rings will have a larger gap

Just a matter of time and right condition Chris...they all snap. Yours will be at the pinion. Stock 3L break under water pump, Torquemasters at pinion

That has the non ratcheting lower so it is a lil less forgiving than the ratcheting models.

Where is it breaking at? Pinion or upper DS bearing?