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On a 280, you don't have to remove the whole drive, just the upper drive housing. If the boat is a saltwater boat, removing the engine from the flywheel housing may be the best option.

Why would you do that when you can just put in a Delco Voyager?

Even with that, you can only run 2 fixtures at the same time in Southern California where the cold water temp starts out higher than most places. Up in Wisconsin where Musky is, likely only 1. The BTU requirement goes up the colder your initial water temp is. There is a chart that shows desired...

I looked up The Rinnai chart for pipe size. You should probably be ok. I remember it being way more conservative. Go down to the propane table: https://www.rinnai.us/faq/tankless-water-heater/gas-line-sizing-table Every elbow reduces the equivalent length so you would need a table for that too.

35K may be common for a tank water heater. It is not sufficient for a tankless especially if the water starts out cold.

I am not saying you need 1 1/2". You may need greater than what you have depending on the distance of your existing lines. My tankless was 180K BTU.

Yes..since they were the joint venture years.

Also, that distributor used in those things was only used for a few years and have known issues after awhile. I was proactive with mine and switched it to a Delco Voyager before mine went out.

The only reason to get one is if you don't have space for a tank. The efficiency difference is small. If you don't descale it every 6 months or yearly, you lose all the efficiency gains. They don't work when you lose power. If a part needs to be replaced, it may take over a week to get. If you...

Noritz condensing. That is what I had at my old house and recommend. Started with a Rheem and it was a piece of junk. Personally, if I had to do it over again, I would never put in a tankless water heater.

Not sure I would be concerned if the vibration is from a full turn. If the drive/engine alignment is not correct, that will exacerbate the vibration. You check that annually hopefully?

You have to go look at Wikepedia before they remove this

I replaced my rotted out steel line going back towards the axles with a rubber line. Brakes work fine. I have electric/hydraulic with disc Kodiak brakes.

There are no Ford engines in boats after 1996. Ford dropped all support for marine use after that.

Not in 24 years! And what multi port FI that is Coast Guard approved would you recommend?

One riser will always be hotter than the other. In order to determine which sensor was causing this, you would have to disconnect the wire from one of them at a time and either ground it or keep it open, depending on how they work. When was the last time you changed your water pump impeller?

Less than an hour. For either water pump. Depending on how hard it is to access.

You will always get water exiting from the sides. That is excess water that the engine can not accept. This is especially true before you start the engine. If the engine is not running, the water is not getting by the impeller. BTW, at least on my Volvo drive, you can't use that Mercury type...

These are the best muffs. Put water on both sides https://www.summitracing.com/parts/moe-380160?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-f78BRBbEiwATKRRBCqoSSo8YjLcIYPnf97Fu25CzAeOuWYTFab8s9J0jZi0r5w1GYg__xoC1q0QAvD_BwE