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flip the engine upside down an drip some release agent down the shaft to reach the PH let it seep in a few hrs and retry. tapping on the drive shaft from the other end with a wood block/hammer may break a rusty bond in the PH.

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see around minute 8:00 vro repair...

based on diagram it does not look like a PH removal is needed just rebolt a new handle

I did change the lower unit grease and it looked real good. oil hopefully...

cav plate looks like it is lined up with the bottom so you should be OK with the weight of both motors hanging on the back... check for a good pee stream if motor has one . motor down may help steering in windy situation I run motor down .....with no linkage on my set up I use the big...

thanks I got 2 similar 3.9hp and one XL sailboat boat version of the 4hp (apparently a more rare version) but no sailboat :) Got to get rid of some plus several E/J 4hps ..... ...the shed is filling up

my shor shaft Merc sits next to my long shaft ETEC and because the V transom slopes up towards the outside edge my kicker rides perfectly for trolling

Clean the surface of the chipped area with carb cleaner and just smooth it out with some JB high strength mix file smooth on the side and top and close it up. the alternative is to leave it, close it, test it if it works don't fix it . jmho

We need model !! we just do not know what "old" is .... to yound fellows everything is old :-) answers to coils, condenser, point, and.. impeller condition ! nedded after inspection .

if compresssion lost pull the cyl head and check the head gasket ... they some times blow at the center point between cylinders. they can get hot in a tub do not run them wot in a tub

u should post the mdl# no charge coils in old 4hps the older ones only have ignition coils usually at cracked up if you did not pull the FW to bring it back yo life... Condensors likely shot also ....repalce! points usually just need a touch up and set .020 but new ones always...

like it or not smart enough or not your corner mecaninc but you may want to try asking ChatGpt about the innards and options to proceed. it will search the world for you and maybe come up with a way out B.O.A.T. break out another thousand they say...

that is basically how some oldies worked.. no need to short out coils. just choke it and keep your low idle for trolling

or... remove the plug and hard wire it all using a multi conductor cable to handle all the necessary functions... power start kill choke etc... :-)

wiring wise this is probably typical although not your year https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/25_35_82-83_elec-remote.jpg https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/77-78_55HP.jpg Also, what ignition switch do I need? see diagram Are factory service manuals available? yes but MAX...

You are surely correct as I have never worked on one of those and many more. yet I truly think this rabbit can wait. I will let op continue on his journey as I await the happy ending.

I doubt grease in itself help ignition being an insulator anyway there are several high temperature grease products on amazon. Some by Permatex good to -46C to + 1650 C

you can make this as complex as you wish. I think you should fix the spark problem and worry about grease and oil after. You are working on a 57 year old engine and things and products haved evolved... greasing a spring should not be a major problem. Become a happy boater.

when all else fails use the old method... choke it ! it always works. no wiring needed oils the innards