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2001 model perform a load test on the old battery ... try a new battery ...trickle charging all winter is not proof the battery is still ok https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=2001&hp=70&model=E70PL4SIA

seafoam sure cleared up my honda snowblower hick-ups (surging) ! I was going to swap in a new carb ( from amazon) but never had to after I ran seafoam . Been good now 2-3 years :-)

not so bad for a 50 year old engine... if it works don't fix it. maybe try some engine cleaner/decarb product to clean out some carbon deposits. Some like Seafoam some don't.. no harm in trying see utubes. Evinrude engine cleaner or Merc power tune should flush out some nasty stuff.

check the video ... you could even loose that voltage between a nut and post .. make certain you scratch the b- post clean and shiny..also make certain you see 0.00 V when probes are shorted together. Meters can be iffy sometimes. Personnal I love my old telco analog Ks 14150 meter...

just wiggle the wires and you may see the drop disappear ...check for corrosion in connections and heavy wire crimps. no need to spend $$$$ if fixable :)

your 18hp comes from a long family of oldies and this books can supply you with valuable info... nothing new under the sun ! just download store print locally https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf[/URL timing video

if carb adjustement don't work ,compression is OK , ignition etc... make certain the narrow side channel sending fuel up to the top idle cct chamber under the dome plug is 100% clear otherwise the idle fuel supply will not flow up the side , drip down and get sucked in the engine. see...

free https://www.leeroysramblings.com/

to test at wot the garbage can may not be adequate due to fumes and high prop slip in aerated water . maybe just a qwick burst to "see"... how it sounds

ok next... my brother had one of the " problematic" 2hp... turned out the carb had a hard to see crack in the carb body . I don't remember where exactly but it was the cause of the problem. this was over 30 years ago !! may has well remove the carb and inspect closely.. .as I said... hard to...

some motor have a rubber hub that wears out and may slip at wot...

starter circuitry is generally straight forward.. battery B- GROUND is bolted to the engine frame and serves everybody. Red B+ from the battery FIRST goes to the solenoid main IN post some B+ is sent off usually via a fuse to serve for ignition Tilt and Trim rely controls etc...

here one opinion from ai what would cause a 1978 2hp Evinrude to appear weak at wot if compression is ok If your Evinrude 2 HP Outboard (1978) has good compression but feels weak at wide-open throttle (WOT), the problem is usually fuel, ignition, or prop/load related. These small engines are...

suggest one rabbit at a time... leave key to OFF and don't involve timing issues... you can activate the starter cuircuit and do voltage drop testing by simply manually applying 12v on the solenoid control post which the key START position normally activates. have you shiny...

Across solenoid IN post and B- (I used an engine ground point) - 0.0V before cranking, MAIN IN post on solenoid should always have 12v..! in fact its is suppose to equal the same as reading the voltage across the battery posts since the engine frame ground is the same referrence as the...

Sold as good for Suzuki honda and JOHNSON... my mistake more than likely but honest one based on description of product . I squared off the round end a bit and rounded the square end a bit and done with fuel barb to engine and males facing forwards. Had to cut threads in the thing as...

I don't really know where you are at here but rightly or wrongly I can't see how the ignition /kill circuitry would contribute to the starter problem unless somehow it contributes such a high amperage drain worthhy of smoking up the place being low drain elements to begin with. That said...

one option is take it to a repair shop but here is a typical fix up .

Aside from a OEM part how about just a small bolt with a nylon lock nut. that would keep it in place . if needed to hold the spring install 2 extra washers and keep the bolt loose a bit to allow movement. if the original pin extends below the female section and has a hole in it...