Search results

A warm manifold set up will have two hoses constantly feeding cold water the risers snd two hoses feeding water from the thermostat when open to the bottom of the manifolds. This just keeps the manifolds at engine temp to keep condensation out of them. Either set up works fine if the engine is...

If you havent hit wot with either you dont know what they are capable of . This is the classic tradeoff on how you want to use your boat. If top speed is more important to you use the 3 blade. If you want better holeshot especiallyif loaded with people 4 blade is probably better as mentioned U...

Your oil pressure is fine as a rule of thumb 10 psi per 1000 rpm is perfect so at idle 25 is great You didn’t mention what is wot rpm for both props . You said at 3/4” throttle What are both props running at wot

you can use the ball joint press The yoke is probably ok but I usually use OEM parts. The speedi sleeve willing to bet if you search here on iboat you will find the size . also you can find info about repositioning the seal about .030" rather or less deep into the housing so it rides on a...

If you keep the original bearings no you do not need to reshim

Dont leave the oil pressure switch jumped out too long as it is a safety feature wants the history on the ignition components probably something simple like the distributor sensor or cap and rotor replacement

good diagnostics, you can jumper the oil pressure switch to confirm

no problem at all here with these numbers . 55c is just under 140 F so completely fine . You do not need to vary the rpm. only needed when you are breaking in a new engine

You can't as the FI needs the O2 sensor. If you are just running a Air Fuel ratio meter and using that for carb tuning like me yes you can remove when you aren't messing with jets .

I've seen their stuff before. Would be interested to see if you have issues with O2 sensor longevity. I had looked at their O2 sensor plate when I wanted to adapt my AFR meter from my GTO to the boat. AEM who makes the meter doesn't recommend leaving the O2 sensor in place continuously, only...

I would start by contacting them. I am not familiar with them but you could have a bad pressure regulator or injectors not sealing. Why did you swap it out ? not trying to be argumentized just curios

yes I would think your oil pressure alarm switch is bad. You can check it for continuity. It should have continuity to a good engine ground when engine is off and open when running and you have oil pressure When these go off its too late anyways you should watch your oil pressure and temp...

see post 7 might take the injectors out and see if they are dribbling after shutdown What fuel injection did you put on ? was it an aftermarket kit like sniper etc ? or did you do an oem take off ? Do the sparkplugs look rich fouled?

hoses like this are offered in a couple lengths might be easier than bending and flaring. They are the same stuff that VP and Merc use as OEM...

absolutely #1 place to look. Here is a thread that gives ohm rating for sender diff between sender and limit switch https://forums.iboats.com/threads/testing-trim-position-sender.686770/

I suspect it may come down to what marine carb you can get. I know for a long time the 1409 was out of stock. I think they had a of road needle and seat for 4x4 use. I had a 1406 on my GTO and a 1409 on my Mercruiser both work great. In a boat I like having the float bowl with no gaskets...

Nothing is bad with an edelbrock you will hear peoples preferences

That's what I thought. Years ago I thought michigan motorz and marine power were both using 600 cfm on their 5.7 partial engine packages, but I saw Merc uses a 750 on their reman 5.7 engines... Either way the OP has a Automotive carb

Where in NY are you

That is not a marine edlebrock carb. it is an automotive. the marine does not have the three vacuum ports on front ...also doesnt have an overflow nipple up by airhorn. To the OP get a marine edlebrock 1409 is 600 cfm and will work on a 5.0, if it is a 5.7 might think about the 1410 750 cfm...