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Was a heat deformed terminal. 3rs from end, bottom row of red connector Couldn't get the terminal out of the connector. So a bit of 16 gauge wire resides inside the terminal with the BCM pin I just want the name of the engineer that thinks this is a good idea.......

going to assume 90% that there are Z-clips and flat clips. you can see the bolster flat clips in the pics and the seat back rest flat clips. (pull the screws out of the flat clips to slide the seat back up off the Z-clips. bottom should be similar.

Is this the same 1988 boat? if so, buy a new cable. they last about 15 years

Im pulling your data cards HAL....... Im pulling your data cards

this suggests firing the controls engineers at Stellantis / GM / Ford / BMW/ etc

Turns out the GM used a high-density plug on the BCM and high-loads like the defroster and HVAC fan are too close together. the pins get hot, the terminal opens up, arcing occurs, the pins get hotter...... spent a bit of time on the Solstice Forum to find that its one of the common failures of...

check the impeller. check your hose flow. are you using a 3/4" hose on full?

looks similar to a 1978 Steury 1900 that I found googlin. the HIN should start with SRC as the MIC code most HIN lookups wont deal with the early 11 digit HIN of the Steurys also, most of the I/O Steury's i saw online had OMC stringers. like this one in the iboats for sale area...

looks like swagged ends. If all your stanchions are in order, I would just get a few quick-connect ends, cut off the swagged end, and redo the terminations check your local rigging shop to see what they have on-hand.

Ted, thought of your thread as I'm chasing an HVAC issue in the daily whip that appears to be a bad BCM If I met an automotive controls engineer I'm going to throat punch him/her

get a laptop with Rinda and plug in to look at the warnings.

that vent cover is only available from Rinker. it was custom made by Rinker. your choices are find a used one on ebay, or buy one from Rinker, or make one out of fiberglass.

better than collinite...... no. the white boats use collinite, however they have a crew of 20 somethings that start at the bow, polishing, buffing, waxing everything and sanding the teak. when they get to the stern, they start over.

custom rinker only bit.

Throw it on fleabay

if you can paint and sand, you can re-spray the gel.

you have a blockage or lack of flow from the pump

spin the selector switch back and forth to clean the contacts. however it should be set to 1

You have a bit to go before you are worried about finish You need to grind back the broken areas and build back up with fiberglass You need to sand down the cracked gel down to good material, then fair and re-gel I wouldn't use epoxy paint unless it's rated for the job

Did you find the bits missing from the old impeller?