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Use a factory head gasket Measure the head for flatness with a machinist ground bar. If it isn't flat, get it machined If you shave your head, you need to remeasure your push rods

you ran it to 200F. you already spit the head gasket. they spit their head gasket if the temp goes much over 175 best you can do is do a compression test and hope you didnt score the pistons. BTW, these motors have high cranking compression. you should see 170PSI on the gauge. if you lost...

The OP's 22' islander sure could use a 5.0 or 5.7

Im on the 3rd rebuild of a trans because the factory GM (JMBX) torque converters are a joke. only 0.5mm of carbon fiber clutch face bonded and pressed by a hydro-formed piston. they edge load, eat the friction material, take out the pump, which in turn drops pressure and the trans eats itself

Fred on the left is an gator, Barney on the right is a crock what is missing in the pic is the water moccasin and other reptiles in florida that want to kill you.

Red boats become pink boats in the Florida sun

If you got a 1996 or later vortec. I would look at a billet aluminum front cover and a custom oil pan. Use the marine accessories from the 1994. Buy manifolds. If it was me, I would go V8. Same work, same cost, more power

Design life is 15 years Service life depends on many factors As for hours, I would expect 3000+ if maintained Marine motors are usually killed by lack of maintenance, the hardly ever die of old age

GM torque converters start going at 60k. Can't pull 25# of metal out of them and not get flex where you don't want flex

Wouldn't be float level. And pickup screen is only a remote chance Start with compression test, check everything

Block doesn't care what heads. Only the intake cares Drive doesn't care what heads, only cares about what flywheel Main difference between the 1993-1995 motor and the 1996-2003 motor is the heads (and plastic oil pan) If you get a motor from an s-10. You only get the short block and heads...

Except the trans issues

You may do 15-18

Factory Mercruiser manual for the motor and drive will give you everything you need

They make a small Honda weed whacker motor outboard in a carrying bag.

I have access to a laser, a lathe, and a pile of alternators. I wouldn't pay more than $300-$350

It's worked for 143 years....

Unless the tub is big enough to get the whole drive submerged...... It won't work Hint, to get the drive submerged, you need to have the boat floating. Best bet. Pull the drive Hook up hose to thermostat housing Drain when you're done

If it's carbureted, most likely the carb needs work and the accelerator pump circuit is plugged However without trouble shooting, it's only a guess Start with a compression test See if you see two fuel streams when applying throttle

You have to first get your motor height correct. Then you dial in the prop My guess you will be in the 15p range