Ask Toyota mechanics, I bet they will what "what valve adjustment"
you need the special tool, a micrometer, and a bunch of shims to choose from to actually "adjust" anything. As long as the engine is supplied with good clean oil, and high enough octane fuel to keep cylinder temps normal, I bet very few of these engines ever need an adjustment.
the adjusting screw and lock nut method worked fine on other OHC engines I have owned, (Honda, VW, Mazda) but these did actually go out of adjustment at times.
BTW I just checked the adjustment on the engine of my brother's BMW R-1800 motorcycle. Beautiful machine, but simple screw adjuster and locknut. Just like my 1965 VW Beetle!
We used to use the idea of going .002 under the spec (feeler gauge should just fall thru the gap) and .002 over the spec (feeler gauge doesn't want to go in the gap). That much leeway I think is OK, it takes practice to hold the feeler gauge right so you can actually feel it sliding between the tip of the valve and the adjuster screw, like setting points, same concept.
I can still recall the VW spec for their air cooled flat fours:
.004" intake
.006" exhaust