1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

I did some thinking and I have an idea to change it up. If I ground and added 1708 to the hull bottom and sides as it runs up the 'step' as a way to strengthen the hull, omit the bottom layer of plywood/ balsa or whatever. I could run 4 new stringers up the center and scribe them in relation to the actual deck height and subtract the thickness of 1/2" plywood from the bottom and cut them. Bed them up in PB, lay some 1/2" plywood to seal the decking, fill the cavity with 2 part foam. Tab the 'deck' to the hull using WOG's layup schedule, and then call it good. That's not the original design and It will add a tiny bit of weight, but not much. The hull weighed less than 500 lbs when built. I bet it was pushing 600 with the water logged foam. It should be stronger anyway

Only thing I have to do is make a clean slate, and of course carefully take apart the forward section rather than the mass destruction that happened at the back
 
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jbcurt00

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

I bet it had more then 100lbs of excess weight before you started the demo.

Adding CSM to the down side of the deck is also a good idea & will add rigidity to the 1/2" deck.
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

It probably did have over 100 lbs. CSM it is for the 1/2 deck.
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

I had a thought to keep costs down.. For resin I have 8 gallons of USC 435 resin but also a couple gallons of waxed Bondo resin.. Can I do the bottom/ middle lamination with the 435 and then do the last layer for that lamination with Bondo resin? If I could do that, I could stretch the 435 Resin way out. I think I have enough fiberglass material to complete the boat, and I know I have enough wood minus 4 DF 2x4's
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

Beginning to think this boat is not going to be restorable economically.. I got a small section of the deck ground to the edge of the 'bilge' so that I can see where the plywood should start/ stop but it just keeps going. I can keep grinding to see, but I have a feeling that this boat was plywood cored at least partially and the inside bilge area was put into the mold before the initial layup... Got rained with thunder and lightning so I couldn't get pics yet
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

This is the cross section, and you can see the plywood between the layers.. Hoping I can go forward, I just haven't a clue as to how.

2i7l121.jpg
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

well, I ground that entire section and found 100% fiberglass across the entire section... I'll get some good light going and finish up the rear deck section tonight hopefully
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

The idea that the structure and plywood deck was built as a structure and then placed in the hull has been confirmed. Going from the plywood into the 2 outermost 'stringers', there are nails the entire way down the deck pointing up.. Not the way I will put it back, but at least I know how it was intended originally
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

Are there nail heads on the bottom? My FireFlite had similar looking nails, but it was just the remaining shank after the nail head rusted off....
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

I'll have to check. Still a few remain as I have not gotten all of the plywood off the hull bottom.. I have the rear section 99% demolished and transom is ready to come out and it should come in one piece. I have to cut off one last bolt that held the plywood scabbing on the outside . I have saved one transom knee complete for a pattern. I just have to grind the starboard side to get that last .5" of wood out of there, and then I will move forward in removing the first bulkhead/ seat support. Given I know where to cut now, it will go quicker.
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

rear bulkhead/ seat support is out. Took about 30 seconds to zip thru the old wood flour based filler that they were bedded in. Rotted but perfect for a pattern once I sand off the remains of filler. Front floor ( actually area under the seats ) is almost out. fiberglass was delaminated from the wood so I just ripped it up in 2 pieces
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

Got quite a bit done today. Both bulkheads are out, floors are out up to the bow. just pulling the last of the foam now. Decided to run to HD to get the 2x4 douglas fir that I needed to make the stringers with and new bulkheads. Also grabbed a 'garden tiller' that I saw Friscoboater uses for foam removal.

Pic not entirely up to date but close. This was a reference pic for that forward piece that I know I will not get out whole

30x9y7k.jpg
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

Got much more done today, but I'm beat now.. Close to rebuild time tho..

2rz5nk0.jpg


209su9h.jpg



I have to cut the last 2 bolts that were left over from the old transom repair, and knock in the garboard drain sleeve and then the transom will come free.

A question tho.. I have 4 large tubes of PL-400. Is that what I'm going to want to attach the transom skin to the transom with, or should I use thickened resin?
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

Guess that's what I'll use. Is there any way to slow down how fast it kicks?. I managed to get the transom out. Came out in the factory 3 peices but I do not know if the lines are sharp enough to pattern it with, so I may need to cardboard template. Also found a nice 12" tear right down into the keel. It's old too because it's discolored. It was covered up by the last section of plywood scabbing. No wonder there was a bilge pump installed. This boat leaked like a sieve in it's later years.. It's a good thing I know how to work with fiberglass. I'll drill the ends, until I can get to that.. I also have to fix factory blunders, like resin starved woven roving in the bow..


Would it be a good idea to get some milled fibers to act on the styrene in the resin to work better with the adhesion, rather than just the cabosil? when making the PB/ thickened resin
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

I'd suggest using a 1% MEKP mix ratio instead of the 1.5 or 2.0 ratio to slow things down a bit. You can also keep the MEKP and Resin in an ice chest prior to mixing to "Trick" it into thinking the temps are cooler. For Structural Peanut Butter (Thickened Resin) I'd always recommend using 1/4 cup of 1/4" chopped milled fibers per quart of resin along with cabosil.
 
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matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

I've been thinking about this and done a little research, and I think it can be done this way, but I want to make sure. Can I bond the transom at the same time I fill all the holes on the transom in. I have 2 dozen holes or so in the transom skin due to my grandfathers old 'fix'. By this procedure I mean, Back the transom with mat and resin, then mat and resin the transom skin on the inside. This will fill and repair the transom skin and bond the transom at the same time.. I also have the 12" tear from the flexing transom ( hence why below deck was soaked ) which could be repaired on the inside at the same time, just drill the ends of the crack before glassing.

I'm actually at the point of starting the rebuild. I have a tiny bit more grinding to do up in the bow, but I want to get some structure back first. I just have not had my camera ready for pics.
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

Just use Packing tape on the outside of the hull. You'll use PB to glue the transom to the skin and it will ooze out into all the holes and the tape will keep the PB in place and fill the holes. It might bulge a bit but that's actually ok cuz you can sand it flush and smooth later. Pics of the crack would really help.
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

I really think this needs more than just PB to fill the crack. The builders never did make it very thick, and a couple stress areas have also formed, which I opened up with grinding. The crack is probably 13-14" top to bottom. I have drilled the ends to stop it from continuing tho.

Side note. Trailer is junk. Decided to remove and measure the rollers when I spotted something just not right.. The frame which holds the axle and spring is twisted pretty bad on the right side. Being a 1959 ( possibly earlier ) trailer made by a company that did not survive past the early 60's, parts just do not exist.. Unless a trailer shop can straighten it, it's good for parts at best..
rkzukm.jpg

124yg60.jpg


Transom crack
iz4y02.jpg


New transom setting up. I cardboard templated the bottom which was still good enough to trace, and then extended the lines to the top and traced as original.. The side pockets were done separately from the factory, as I will also do because that section tilts back quite a bit
xaq9si.jpg
 

matt167

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Re: 1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray Rebuild

If this boat is still available, I may buy it for the trailer and use the OB to either turn a profit or refit my 650 short shaft with a little more go power ( Power head will swap to the lower unit. ).. Disguise the 850 with the 650 cowl and cover and create a monster. Nobody would ever know http://oneonta.craigslist.org/boa/3973247083.html
 
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