1965 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

I keep thinking of using PB for gluing the transom in, and very concerned about work time, now that's allot of PB to mix up, I fear that by the time I mix and spread it on it going to go off before I even have a chance to clamp the transom down. How much PB will I need? and how long to mix? 15 min of work time really isn't enough.
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Another question, can I build my whole transom out of the boat, glass both sides with mat and cloth, then glue it in? Then all I have to do in the boat is tab it in.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Have any updated pics of the trans..and the putty that your talking about ?

It all depends on what the putty was used for.. In a perfect world you would grind it all out.

But pics would help again..

YD.

After seeing the pics..I agree that I wouldnt even grind all that stuff off :)

The putty that you use is going to be the tricky part.. If you use the wrong resin..or the wrong MEKP.. you could have a real mess on your hands..

Its hard to tell how much your going to need unless its a REAL flat surface.

As I have stated in the past.. DRY FIT EVERYTHING ! I mean do a dry run from start to clamp ( aside from resin and PB ). You need to make sure that you have a plan before mixing any resin that is quick :) Have your table set up with anything and everything you can think of .. including a Drill and some drywall screws ;)

If your going to ask what materials I would use..

Vinylester resin low VOC.
slow kick MEKP.
Cabosil.

OH..you should drill some holes in your new ply before glueing down.. helps prevent air pockets.

YD.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Another question, can I build my whole transom out of the boat, glass both sides with mat and cloth, then glue it in? Then all I have to do in the boat is tab it in.

I would not do that.

Get that sucker glued in without a problem then glass/tab all at one time.

YD.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

I AGREE with YD. You can Use the Poly res and Some Slow Kick Hardener and Have 30 Mins to get it in. If you do a dry run you'll have plenty of time. Yes, I would recommend that you make your Transom FIRST Coat with Res first and apply the Mat to BOTH sides an then Give another coat of res. Let it dry Then as YD Said drill a few 1/2 inch holes so the PB can Squeeze thru and not get any air pockets. Make sure and Practice first and Have a PLAN on how you are going to do everything. If you can get a friend to help and make sure HE knows the plan to it would be even better.

Check this out at the bottom, you will see and learn alot about how to make, fit, and clamp your transom.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=287390&highlight=transom+clamps&page=2


I'm just sayin...:D
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Thanks again guys. Ok I'm getting a little confused here though with the layers. So I should put a layer of CSM on the transom skin first? Let that dry? then coat the back side of the new transom with resin? Let that tack up, then mix up the pb and spread it out, clamp on, does that sound ok? How many holes do I need? I've read many rebuilds on here and never seen anyone drill holes in their transom to allow it to squish out?
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Check this out at the bottom, you will see and learn alot about how to make, fit, and clamp your transom.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=287390&highlight=transom+clamps&page=2


I'm just sayin...:D

Ok, I checked out that thread, Ive read it before as well. Man too many different opinions. So it looks like he used 3 layers of CSM in between the transom skin and the wood core, 1st layer was allowed to cure then two additional layers were added then PB was added then the wood core went in. I think that's what he did kinda hard to follow all his steps. Yes no?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Thats what he did but you need to be aware of the final thickness you are shooting for. This will determine what you need. Each layer of mat and resin will add about an 1/8 of an inch. Don't worry so much there fella. You will be fine. Take it one step at a time. First thing you should do is fabricte the transom. Make a template out of cardboard or cheap fiberboard transfer the pattern to your plywood, cut it out, test fit it and then coat it with some resin. Once you get it made and test fitted you will feel a lot better about it and you will see how it all comes together. Next step will be to figure out your clamping plan. And finally mix up the PB and glue it all up. You will be a pro in no time. Wish I was there to help ya. We'd have it done in no time

You need to get that bottom patch done first, before the transom goes in.




I'm just sayin...:D
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Thats what he did but you need to be aware of the final thickness you are shooting for. This will determine what you need. Each layer of mat and resin will add about an 1/8 of an inch. Don't worry so much there fella. You will be fine. Take it one step at a time. First thing you should do is fabricte the transom. Make a template out of cardboard or cheap fiberboard transfer the pattern to your plywood, cut it out, test fit it and then coat it with some resin. Once you get it made and test fitted you will feel a lot better about it and you will see how it all comes together. Next step will be to figure out your clamping plan. And finally mix up the PB and glue it all up. You will be a pro in no time. Wish I was there to help ya. We'd have it done in no time

You need to get that bottom patch done first, before the transom goes in.




I'm just sayin...:D

Thanks! Yes I'll do that patch first for sure. I'll be getting my materials on Monday. So I'll make up the transom pieces, glue them together first, then get er done! I may just go with 2 3/4" pieces for the transom with some layered CSM, then just deal with shortening the outboard well after since it actually needs some repairs as well, its all cracked from the sagging transom, it actually leaked water through it into the boat.

Was talking with my dad, he works in the marine bus, they use a marine grade Mahogany plywood, he says its very nice and strong and very expensive about $90 a sheet, and weighs in a close to 100lbs per sheet!!! Thinking of maybe picking up a sheet of that for the transom, what do ya think?
 

parrisw

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Scooterbum

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Hey, looked at this thread again, and I see the wood he used for the transom has some significant knots in it?? I thought that was a big NO NO!!??

So what size bar is going on it? And are you going to use skip?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Yeah, his choich of wood was NOT the greatest but... Once it is encased in glass and resin it will last a long time regard less. But I would use the best I could afford. The wood you are talking about is some of the best but it is PRICEY. If you want to pay for it, GO for it!!!

Not sure I undestand this statement. " then just deal with shortening the outboard well after since it actually needs some repairs as well, its all cracked from the sagging transom, it actually leaked water through it into the boat." Please explain

I'm just sayin...:D
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

So what size bar is going on it? And are you going to use skip?

har de har har har! I thought about using a chainsaw to cut out the transom!! LOL

Yeah, his choich of wood was NOT the greatest but... Once it is encased in glass and resin it will last a long time regard less. But I would use the best I could afford. The wood you are talking about is some of the best but it is PRICEY. If you want to pay for it, GO for it!!!

Not sure I undestand this statement. " then just deal with shortening the outboard well after since it actually needs some repairs as well, its all cracked from the sagging transom, it actually leaked water through it into the boat." Please explain

I'm just sayin...:D

Sorry the well where the outboard sits. Here is a pic.

attachment.php


You can see that the back of that well, that's where the outboard bolts on, if I go with anything thicker then 1 1/4 on the transom it wont fit, since that part of the well butts up against the transom, so if I make a thicker transom I'll have to shorten that well, so I think that I will do that, it needs fiberglass repair anyway since the bottom of it is all cracked and actually leaks water through it. It'll be nice to have a stronger thicker transom. So I may just buy a sheet of that wood, it sounds nice!
 

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drewpster

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Thanks for the reference to my tri-hull thread, hope it helps.
I dry fitted my transom several million times and got it shaped before installing it. I decided beforehand what holes I wanted to keep and what holes I wanted to fill. I then clamped the core in place and drilled the holes I was going to use for clamping.
I then covered the bare transom with a single layer of CSM and resin. I coated the core with resin alone then let them both cure.
Layup and clamping of the transom core happened all at once. I decided to use two layers of CSM to bond the core to the skin. This gave me the correct thickness and the weave would hold the resin in place and not let it ooze out the bottom.
I got all my cut CSM, resin, roller, clamping bolts and everything else ready to go before laying the core in place.
I mixed my resin, rolled it on the bare transom and laid both sheets of CSM in place and wet them out thoroughly. I then smeared a thickened layer of resin (resin, cabosil, chopped fibers) on the core.
I quickly set the wood in place and pushed my well waxed clamping bolts through the holes and tightened everything up. It squished and oozed out everywhere. (DON'T forget to wax the bolts or they will not come back out)

I like the idea of drilling some relief holes to prevent air pockets. I also like the idea of having the assembly built with tabs in place, then glue it in.

BTW- I would use plain old ACX ply or MDO plywood if I had it to do over. Having a heavier transom is nice as well, but rebuilding the splashwell was a big job. I your case it is moot because you have to do the splashwell work anyway. OH! and listen to these guys, they know there stuff. Let us know how it turns out.
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Thanks for the reference to my tri-hull thread, hope it helps.
I dry fitted my transom several million times and got it shaped before installing it. I decided beforehand what holes I wanted to keep and what holes I wanted to fill. I then clamped the core in place and drilled the holes I was going to use for clamping.
I then covered the bare transom with a single layer of CSM and resin. I coated the core with resin alone then let them both cure.
Layup and clamping of the transom core happened all at once. I decided to use two layers of CSM to bond the core to the skin. This gave me the correct thickness and the weave would hold the resin in place and not let it ooze out the bottom.
I got all my cut CSM, resin, roller, clamping bolts and everything else ready to go before laying the core in place.
I mixed my resin, rolled it on the bare transom and laid both sheets of CSM in place and wet them out thoroughly. I then smeared a thickened layer of resin (resin, cabosil, chopped fibers) on the core.
I quickly set the wood in place and pushed my well waxed clamping bolts through the holes and tightened everything up. It squished and oozed out everywhere. (DON'T forget to wax the bolts or they will not come back out)

I like the idea of drilling some relief holes to prevent air pockets. I also like the idea of having the assembly built with tabs in place, then glue it in.

BTW- I would use plain old ACX ply or MDO plywood if I had it to do over. Having a heavier transom is nice as well, but rebuilding the splashwell was a big job. I your case it is moot because you have to do the splashwell work anyway. OH! and listen to these guys, they know there stuff. Let us know how it turns out.

Thanks for the reply and tips! I'm hoping to finish grinding on the hull this weekend! Then start to build it up next week.
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

I'm thinking of cutting back the fiberglass stringers about 6" from the transom, so I can fix this crack properly and tab in the bottom of the hull to the transom skin, just don't want this crack that I need to fix to spread. There is also some holes in the transom that I want to fill that are right behind the stringer, and I can't do an internal repair with the stringer in the way. Then after just rebuild the stringer.
 

Rob1975

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Are you going to use the kicker bracket again? I might want to take that off your hands.

Kwdog75.
 

parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Well a little update here. Was grinding on the crack in the rear of the hull, and started smoothing out the stringers as well at the back to tab them in, and ended up grinding right through the stringer, they are very thin and dry fiberglass, it looks as if the stringers are built outside of the boat then glassed in with 1 measly small tab. Then when I ground through the stringer I saw a mist of water fly out!! So the foam in there is all wet, so my plan is to cut the top of the stringers out chip out all the foam, put a plywood cap over top of the stringer with some weight on them, drill some holes then pour in foam, when the foam is dry remove the plywood, then reglass the stringers and beef them up a little since they don't look that good. Sound good?

You can see the colour difference in the top of the foam, that's water. Also found a piece of plywood in the rear of the stringer??? was about a 3/4" thick and about 12" long??? WTF?
attachment.php


Now this is what the crack looks like now after grinding out the bad fiberglass, someone has tried to do a repair before as well.

attachment.php
 

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parrisw

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Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Should I be using something other then ply to fix this hull since its below the waterline?
 
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