youtube...small girl rebuilds outboard motor...it's a 15 or 9.9 forget which, but the ring install will be the same as yours
good idea to check the gap....I've use a plastic scrapper that I contured to the piston best I could...that and a thumbnail worked well enough...also where she uses a ring expander to slip the ring over the piston, you can use your thumbnails to pull the gap apart and work the ring down....just hook the ring in the groove opposite your thumbnails and don't expand the ring any farther than necessary to get over the piston
I will be able to order the new ring this week, I also ordered a srarkplug gapped, will that work for the rings as well? Also when I am gapping the rings, do I measure from the 2 points of the rings, or from the flat inside part?
Chris, sorry to hear you broke a ring. And as usual, you have to buy a set to get a new one.
In each ring groove there should be a round pin sticking out some in the ring grooves. And those pins should be positioned 180 degrees apart from each other from the first ring groove to the second ring groove. Those groove pins are there to keep the rings from moving around after they are install on the piston.
The second ring goes on first from the top of the piston and the ring gap is suppose to slit between the ring pin. If you look at the rings, you should see a stepped gap. That is for the ring to fit with that pin. So one ring goes on and the other's ring gap will be 180 degrees apart from that. So once you install the second ring, then install the first ring on the piston.
Now all you have to do is take your thumbnails and squeeze the second ring in until the piston starts in the cylinder. Go slow and squeeze the second ring and as it starts into the cylinder, you will slide the piston in until you get to the first ring. Do the same thing with that ring and the piston will slide in nicely. Don't pound on the piston or get in a hurry. It takes finesse and working carefully.
ring squared in cylinder measure the gap between the two ring ends closest to each other...the other notched portions of the ring will clamp lightly around the ring locating pins in the ring groove....std. rings on std.pistons in a std. bore should be no problem if the ring grooves are completely free of carbon
Should be getting the rings tomm, I ordered the Hi-Vis Gear Lube, a new screen for the fuel pump, shipmaster controls, a key switch (with red plug) and battery cables, so hopefully in the next few weeks il have her done! I need to figure out how to get the lower bearning off the crank, it needs to be replaced I belive, when I spin it it will stop after a few spins abruptley, im talking about the ball bearing one, near the driveshaft connect, sorry no pics will get them tomm! Do I nee a bearning puller, also one of the balls in deformed in the carrier.
Not seeing the bearing you're referring to, I can only suggest to use a bearing puller to remove it. Don't even think about using any bearing with a deformed ball in the carrier. That will make for a very short engine life.
I have to say one thing. I know this engine has given you a lot of troubles along the way. But your persistence is what it takes to fix this engine and make it run again. So keep up that persistence. :thumb:
check out...youtube..2 Stroke Engine Disassembly Bearing Removal From Shaft Puller Method...the bearing should have a number on it and you may be able to source it locally..save a few bucks....thought about how to get the new one back on?
?????--------Once again a bit of overthinking.-------I normally take them off with a drift and hammer.------They are not that tight.-----Held in place with a circlip they are.-------Heat is used to install bearings.----The correct amount of heat !
------'Drift "----Is a mechanics description of a hefty punch, usually made of brass.