1974 Johnson 50hp Stuck.

Chrisravosa36

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Also, Race rone. You seem to have a lot of knowledge about these motors, on the parts diagram part #49 is a 2 piece small rubber crankshaft round seal that in NLA, it it a seal in between the head and the crankshaft backing. Any idea were I could get one of these?
 

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Chrisravosa36

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These bolts...I thought I almost had them out, but they wont budge! Ive been through 2 bits (they just dont cut anymore) I need a high quality bit! I ended up buying a drill press, my drill kept dieing and was not powerful enough.... I believe it it a 1/4 bit I need, is this true? I really could have had this project done by now, but these two bolts! Any and all tips are very appreciated!





 

gm280

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Chris, At this stage, if you can move the connecting rod assembly to the lower point, you may can use a cutting disk and cut the entire connecting rod off. Yes it will take a new one then, but it looks like it is going to take a new one anyways now. So I would move the crank to lower the assembly to allow access to the connecting rod and cut it off how ever you can.
 

Chrisravosa36

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Chris, At this stage, if you can move the connecting rod assembly to the lower point, you may can use a cutting disk and cut the entire connecting rod off. Yes it will take a new one then, but it looks like it is going to take a new one anyways now. So I would move the crank to lower the assembly to allow access to the connecting rod and cut it off how ever you can.



The rod (cap) looks much worse in the pictures than it acutally is. Id have to get a new crank aswell if I cut it off. I dont really like that option much, im wondering what are the best bits to use for drilling? I have all day tomorrow to drill!
 

gm280

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The rod (cap) looks much worse in the pictures than it acutally is. Id have to get a new crank aswell if I cut it off. I dont really like that option much, im wondering what are the best bits to use for drilling? I have all day tomorrow to drill!

I would suspect a Cobalt bit would work, or even a Carbide bit.
 

gm280

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Ok, thanks for the advice, Im going to get one of each today, am I correct with a 1/4 bit though?

Chris, I honestly have no idea of the correct diameter. However, take one of the other caps and see what bit will fit trough it and go from there. :noidea:

I have to say I like your drill press as well. :thumb:
 

AlTn

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if the rod bolt heads are completely removed....have you tried lifting the crank out as that rod cap should come with it....tried "jarring" those rod bolts with a drift or punch, then pulling the rod cap off?
 

Chrisravosa36

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if the rod bolt heads are completely removed....have you tried lifting the crank out as that rod cap should come with it....tried "jarring" those rod bolts with a drift or punch, then pulling the rod cap off?


I think I made the mistake of using a 1/4 bi, and it really is a 5/16, so I have to remove a bit more bolt today, I will try what you said, thanks! I got a 5/16 Cobalt.
 

Chrisravosa36

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After a few hours of drilling eac, I really didnt get much farther, barley noticed a difference. The bit seemed to be bad after the first 25 minutes, I noticed it stopped cutting. Im considering bringing this project to a machine shop, but I don't have 200$ to spend on it! Is their a special bit for high tensile? I saw a video were the guy got a high tensile screw out like nothing!
 

racerone

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Tried grinding the head off with a dremel and a small stone ?-------That would be working like a painless dentist !
 

Chrisravosa36

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Tried grinding the head off with a dremel and a small stone ?-------That would be working like a painless dentist !
Ive got most of the head off, that would have been a great idea before! Turns out I had the drill press running on a higher speed, so I have to get a new bit, even with this bit im making some progress on the lowest setting.
 

Chrisravosa36

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THESE BOLTS ARE OUT!!!!

Thank you for everybody who helped/gave advice to get these bolts out. There out, finally. I went to home depot last night, picked up another bit, and I applied more pressure on each bolt this morning, a few minutes with each and they were out! Caps popped right off! I have a question about the rings, there is one flat ring, and one that is angled, which one goes on the top/ bottom? for the angled one should the angled side be faced up towards the top of the piston? For the flat one does it matter which side it up, I looked and there is no markings on either.









 

racerone

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Examine the top groove closely , perhaps with a magnifying glass.----You will then quickly realize it can only go one way !!
 

gm280

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THESE BOLTS ARE OUT!!!!

Thank you for everybody who helped/gave advice to get these bolts out. There out, finally. I went to home depot last night, picked up another bit, and I applied more pressure on each bolt this morning, a few minutes with each and they were out! Caps popped right off! I have a question about the rings, there is one flat ring, and one that is angled, which one goes on the top/ bottom? for the angled one should the angled side be faced up towards the top of the piston? For the flat one does it matter which side it up, I looked and there is no markings on either.










Bravo Chris, Bravo. I know you've been fighting those bolts now for a while. But once again persistence pays off. Make sure you purchase the proper replacement rod bolts to reinstall again. Don't use hardware store bolts.

I can't say for absolute certainty, but I would think the beveled ring it the top ring on the piston and with the bevel facing up. But that is only my uneducated guess for your engine. The second ring if flat on both sides is a guess as well. So choose one and install. If these are new rings, there should have been installation directions explaining their placement, positions and which side is facing up.

Do you have a shop manual for your engine? It should explain in there as well. The bevel looks to be tapered towards the inside of the piston. And usually that is made like that to add in sealing during the compression stroke forcing the ring again the cylinder wall. So that is what I am basing my assumption on. Not seeing the piston top, is there any tinny tiny holes drilled around the edge? If so that is the reason for the beveled ring. Of course I could be totally wrong. But that would only the third time today as well. :eek: :facepalm:
 

Chrisravosa36

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Bravo Chris, Bravo. I know you've been fighting those bolts now for a while. But once again persistence pays off. Make sure you purchase the proper replacement rod bolts to reinstall again. Don't use hardware store bolts.

I can't say for absolute certainty, but I would think the beveled ring it the top ring on the piston and with the bevel facing up. But that is only my uneducated guess for your engine. The second ring if flat on both sides is a guess as well. So choose one and install. If these are new rings, there should have been installation directions explaining their placement, positions and which side is facing up.

Do you have a shop manual for your engine? It should explain in there as well. The bevel looks to be tapered towards the inside of the piston. And usually that is made like that to add in sealing during the compression stroke forcing the ring again the cylinder wall. So that is what I am basing my assumption on. Not seeing the piston top, is there any tinny tiny holes drilled around the edge? If so that is the reason for the beveled ring. Of course I could be totally wrong. But that would only the third time today as well. :eek: :facepalm:


Didnt see any tiny whole, made the mistake of getting a cheap ring/piston tool (allows you to squeeze rings/piston into bore) and it broke the god damn new ring... just my luck... Worse part is that it was the bottom ring, the machinisum that squezes the ring broke right when I was hitting it down, and I hit the ring when uncomprsed onto the head, SNAP. I have to but a whole new set now I guess. Got the top one in fine. I also did order the right bolts for it, brand new ones. This motor has been a PITA but it will be all worth it :) This forum has saved my life! Thank you all! :):):happy::D Any recomendations for a good ring compressor? I got one of those allen key and twist.

 
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racerone

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No----- you don't need a ring compressor on these !!!-----------Just find the wee pin in the piston ring groove and put the gap there.-------Then you use a small screw driver and a finger nail to compress the ring till it slides into the piston.--------I do it that way all the time and never a broken ring !
 

Chrisravosa36

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The wee pin in the piston ring groove and put the gap there.-------Then you use a small screw driver and a finger nail to compress the ring till it slides into the piston. !
Can you explain further? By the wee pin do you mean the stopper thing that holds the rings in place? I dont understand how you compress it? were do you place your nail and screw driver?
 
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