1975 Johnson 135 questions

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

We're getting covered up in snow right now but it's suppose to be back in the 60s this weekend so I will try the choke thing then. I may go ahead and take the carbs off and check them too just to see what they look like and more than likely rebuild them just for my piece of mind
 

oldboat1

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

agree with #58-59. It's a big lower unit, but when the snow melts, you should be able to find a plastic barrel big enough to run it in (slowly). The back pressure might help with warm-up and running.
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

I also am going to go ahead and check the carbs because it still won't gain rpms on the water when under load and I talked to my dads friends who is a mechanic and he said that's what it sounded like lol
 

oldboat1

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

yup. think you said they had been rebuilt according to the prior owner, but probably due again for at least a full cleaning. Nice to be able to boat test -- before cleaning/rebuilding, it might be good to try doing carb adjustments and see if you can get it dialed in. All good. Stops to be fun, though, when you just want to go boating.
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

Yea they were rebuilt 2 years ago he said then they sat a year with nothing in them and then he started it 3 times on muffs over a year span so I'm thinking a good cleaning and hopefully I can get to fishing
 

dazk14

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

yup. think you said they had been rebuilt according to the prior owner, but probably due again for at least a full cleaning. Nice to be able to boat test -- before cleaning/rebuilding, it might be good to try doing carb adjustments and see if you can get it dialed in. All good. Stops to be fun, though, when you just want to go boating.

No carb adjustments on that vintage. Fixed jets. Link and sync, yes...but usually not so bad you can't nurse it up to speed.

Be careful pulling those jets with a sloppy screw driver. I use the factory stuff, but you can make your own.

I think the Homepo 6 in 1's have a good straight shank and wide enough tip.

Good luck!
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

If fuel was left in the carbs after running-for along period of time, fuel will evaporate, leaving the fuel gel in the jets/jet passages. Once this fuel dries up into a gel, the carbs won't pass fuel properly. You have to pull the carbs apart to really clean/dissolve that fuel gum. Pull the jets, clean the passages with an aerosol carb cleaner-the whole 9 yards.
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

The snow stopped a little earlier so I went outside to just look at the carbs. I noticed when I pumped the bulb it would start to get had and then the more I pumped it gas would start to come out the front of the carbs and never get completely hard. Is this a stuck float?
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

Likely. Usually, when pumped up the bulb will firm up and prevent further pumping. That's normal. If yours is leaking fuel-you need to check the floats and needle/seats, requiring a partial carb teardown. If you don't have much personal knowledge of the engine, probably a good, normal, preventative maint item. Sort of like changing the impeller on an engine that is just new to you.
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

The snow started melting yesterday so I am going to try to get the carbs off today and check everything in them. Will update back with what I find
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

Got the carbs off and taken apart a little bit ago and both were amazingly clean but I did find a crack in the fuel line where it comes off the pump going to the carbs right below where it mounts up. I'm thinking this may be the problem? I did the hold the carb up and blow on the intake hose and I heard air coming out then I flipped it over and did it and no air came out and it was the same for both so my needle is seating good
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

One thing about the fuel system on that engine. Any original fuel system hoses, bladders were not made to handle today's ethanol fuels. It will eat them up. If you see any sign that parts of the fuel system is original, you may just want to replace all the hoses and fuel pump bladders. Once those original hoses start to break down, black bits of the hoses can migrate down into the carb and lodge in the jets or the needle/seat causing running issues.
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

Thanks for the tip. I checked the hoses and none of them seem to be original. I think they all have been replaced. I am going to replace them anyway. I stay away from ethanol if at all possible. It just makes it even more convenient because the closest gas station to us is no ethanol only
 

V153

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

Getcha some 'Tygon' tubing for under the hood. Good stuff. Plus it's see thru ...
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

That sounds good. I will get some. Thanks!
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

There is one unique hose under the cowling on that engine: from the fuel pump to the tee. It makes a 90 degree bend. Normal fuel hose will kink when bent for that application, restricting fuel flow when bent into that configuration. The factory makes a special heat-bent hose for just that run. I'd consider getting the correct hose from Bombardier for just that use: part # 319739, which is sold today under 2014 part number: # 332845 All other fuel hoses under the cowling are sold as bulk hose.
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

Now that you said that the hose that was on there is not one like that it was just a straight piece and it had cracked bad where it needed to bend
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

I just talked with the previous owner and he said he had put the new hoses on there and then had problems with the rpms getting up the only time he took it out after that. Could this due restriction cause that?
 

younggun

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Re: 1975 Johnson 135 questions

Got the hose ordered and put on today. The primer bulb gets hard and stays hard since I cleaned the carbs and the motor started up on the muffs and only spun over twice. The rpms are high on the muffs at idle but they were high on the muffs last time but when I put it in the water the rpms drop down to normal. Does this sound normal?
 
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