1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Lil' man sitting there thinking about it.

Earlier this week, I scrubbed the crap out of this hull. What worked really well for me, to get the hull clean, I used a scrub brush, lots of rags, and ofcourse acetone. I simply pured the acetone on a the little area I was cleaning, scrub really fast with the brush, before the tone dried, I wiped with a rag. If you wipe before the tone dried, the dust will stick to the rag better. I did shop vac the hull prior to the deep cleaning.

For the limber holes I know alot of people use the pvc pipes. I'm in sort of a debate with myself.
1: Smear PB on the limber holes before I bed the stringers in. About 8th inch thick.
2: Use a piece of 1708 and line the hole.
Instead of useing the wax additive, I'm going to buy a gallon of the resin from the home or auto stores to water proof the holes. Use it with the cloth or to mix the PB. Not a major debate, just some thoughts that have been going through my head wile I'm fine tuning everything.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Take'n a break wile the resin fully cures.

I went to the home improvement store this morn and got their resin and cloth. It supposedly has the WAX in it for the water proofing. I can tell it is different from the unwaxed resin for sure. Totally different feel to it than the unwaxed version. Really smooth. I see now why it should be sanded before a second layer is applied. What I've done here is pretty much JUST lined the limber holes. This is so I won't have to worry about the holes when I start to glass the stringers in. I can just cut the cloth and mat around and close to the holes without tucking the fabric in the holes. On the bottom of the cross braces I layed the glass across the whole bottom, since some cross braces are basically flat. I will leave a gap for water to run to the back.

Wonderful day to u all.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Uhmm, JB, coat your wood with resin first and then let it set for about 15 mins then lay the glass and wet it in. You'll get better bonding and better waterproofing!!!! What kind of wood is that??

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

So what your sayin' Wood is mix a batch of resin for the coating then mix another for the official lay up?
The resin I've been mixing only has about 15 min if that before it starts to jelly.

I do coat the wood before I lay the fabric down. Let it set for just a few min.

What are you seeing in the pictures Wood?

The wood is White wood. You said it was cool to use, Wood. Don't tell it's wrong now or I'll have to change my user name to ReDo.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Yep, your first mix should be for coating the wood. Second batch for layin the glass. But, what you're doing is ok as long as you're puttin down resin first. As for the wood, I went back and checked and in Post #61 I stated Southern Yellow pine would be Ok to use not White wood. Whitewood is soft pine and not a good choice. Now before you Panic, realize that the resin and glass is the most important part of the stringer. If you do a good job of laying them up and make sure there are not bubbles or voids where water can get to the interior wood then it doesn't matter if you use Paper for the core material. As long as water does not get in it will last a LONG time. You should try and use the best resin you can get. The stuff from the Big Box stores and the Auto Supplys is NOT that good. You should really try and order from uscomposites.com and make sure and get good lams. If you have more wood work to do try and locate some Southern Yellow Pine or Douglas Fir.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

YELLOW PINE...:facepalm:...Yep, I do remember now. Wood, I'm so sorry.

I had my mind set on the yellow pine. I guess I saw a pretty 12 foot board, grabbed a few and checked out without paying attention. I just have to stick with what I've done so far. I'll add an extra layer of glass if I have too.

The resin I used today was for nothing but water proofing. Nothing structural at all. It was just for the areas I wouldn't be able to glass after the stringers were bedded down. Very small area. The rest of the over lay was sanded and cleaned. For the final layer over the stringers and transom, will be with the wax additive from USC. It will be ordered soon along with more cabosil. I'll need the cabosil very soon, just going to add the wax with the order.

In the pictures you might be able to make out the areas I didn't sand. Again, very small area. Thanks for keeping me in check, Wood.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

For the past few days after work, I've done atleast a little work to the boat but I feel like I've made good progress. Today I started to finish fitteting the stringers and I ran out of mixing cups. All I needed was just ONE MORE. But its ok, my lady went to get groceries and she's picking me up ten more. And some horny toads for my son and I's fishing trip tomarrow.

Last Friday, I ordered a 4# of aerosil, tugue depressors, and a pint of surfacing wax from no other but USC. I love coming home from work and seeing big boxes sitting on the porch.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Yeah..I know my fillets look like crap and cause more grinding for myself, BUT they're just little touch up spots. Sand paper will get that done. Atleast I don't have to suit up for useing paper.

 

[Trooper82]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

looks good jitterbug...hard to tell..you got 1/4" csm fibers in the mix?

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Thanks Trooper.

Yeah, its in there. It is hard to tell.

Wish my wife would get back.

 

[Trooper82]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Thanks Trooper.

Yeah, its in there. It is hard to tell.

Wish my wife would get back.

Lol, i'm waiting for the admiral to bring me some gas

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I mixed a quart in this cause things toward the rear needed more attention and plus it was the only thing I had left at the time.:redface: I started Kicking off before I could use all of it.

Pretty hairy. I think the togue depressors worked really good at smoothing everything.

LOL Trooper......Wifes back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

The fillets look good. Did a great job. Did you put a space between the hull and the stringers before you started the stringers?

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Hey, Decker.
Yes. I also bed them in with pl. I may have pics. Can't remember if I took any.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Excellent progress Jitterbug,

When making up any resin related product, here is a good tip...

Pre-measure, but don't pre-mix a couple of extra batches, when you run out of the one you are using, just throw the pre-measured stuff together, stir and go...that way you can use slightly smaller batches, yet have plenty to finish up what you started...

Another good tip, but kind of hard to do, is to try and have "Other Stuff" ready to try and use up what you don't need at the moment...

And, yet another morsel, of acquired wisdom... If you have the CSM already cut to fit the areas you are filleting, you can immediately apply it over the fillets, with a pre-prepped batch of resin... this does two things... it will give you the best possible bond between the layers { chemical instead of mechanical} and will help to smooth the fillets and avoid extra sanding...if you really get the hang of it, you could also have the 1708 ready to go, and have the pieces fully tabbed in as you go along...

Oh I forgot to mention...when "cutting" the CSM it is actually best to tear it along any any edges where it will overlap alayer that was previously laid down, so you end up with a "hairy" edge...a little harder to do at first, but easier to do as you get the hang of it...makes for a smoother transition...

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

...if you really get the hang of it, you could also have the 1708 ready to go, and have the pieces fully tabbed in as you go along...

Dang GT, remember, first timer here...I would like to see myself trying to scramble around doing all that stuff in 15 minutes. I would have a heart attack or somethin before I was done.

But really I understand what your saying. Makes perfect sense, just wish I had the skills. Maybe some day.

Does anybody have some tips/steps that can help me from this point? I'm ready to glass the middle stringers.

You all know where at this point. This wil be for the middle stringers only. Due to the lack of time I have, saddly I cann't do wet on wet. I'm going with Woods diagram, maybe 1 extra layer because I'm not doing wet on wet.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Actually as you get the hang of it, it becomes easier to do...and the wet on wet works for a lot longer than the 15 minutes it takes for the resin to "kick"...in most cases, wet on wet is considered viable for at least a couple of hours, sometimes even as long as a day...

It varies depending on many environmental conditions, but my limited understanding is that if it still feels tacky/sticky, you give it a quick wipe down with Acetone and you are still going to achieve a chemical bond...

I am sure that the guys who have worked with this stuff even longer, will likely jump in here and make corrections as needed...:redface:...

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Can I do like a two or three foot section at a time along one side of "A stringer", do another section later. I'm telling ya, time is an issue.

I thought, through out this week I could actually cut out sections that I plan to wet out this weekend. Wetting out a 11 foot piece of fabric at once will be a challenge keeping all the air bubbles out. No doudt about it. Thanks fellas.

The cold weather is coming up super fast and I want to at least get these stringers in, but I don't think I'll be able to make it. I CAN get the middle stringers in at the least. Thanks again..

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

To sort of answer your question, Yes you can do some and come back to it later...

Check out the 3rd pic in this post...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3776051&viewfull=1#post3776051

It shows one of the last stringers I partially installed before the flip for painting...that was almost 4 months ago, give or take...and it still looks that way...when I flip the boat back over, I will probably need to ruff-n-scuff that stringer before I finish adding the PB and CSM...Pretty much will have to do that to the entire job so far, because I have only done a few areas with 1708...still have most of the interior to do...

I personally wouldn't recommend waiting this long, but a day or so, between layups should be OK...just be sure to clean really well with Acetone...

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Hey thanks GT,

I've seen that picture many times. I follow your thread and many others. Mainly the basser threads.

I think I'll do a three part....er glassing thing?.. Do the front part one weekend, middle weekend after, and the rear. Maybe double up if nothing is planned and I'm moveing along well.

Thanks GT.