1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I want to add for newbies (like myseif), you do not need to add very much chopped strands to your filler mix (PB/Peanut butter) because the needles will break up into very thin hairs. In other words, countless hairs can make up one needle. I mixed up a 8oz cup and added about two..... large...... 3 finger pinches. I should have used one, if that.

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Nice job on the glassing.
Putting more chop strand in the PB mix just makes it stronger. It does make it hairy when you work it though.
I use between 1/3 to 1/2 cup of chop strand to a quart of resin. I also use twice the amount of cabisol to the resin.
Keep up the good work.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Thanks Decker. Just had to smooth everthing out so the glassing would be easier.
Your work is just..........Great.....Plan as that.

Well its been a few weeks since an update. I glassed the transom in BUT... I do have some repairs to do to it. Its just on the second layer of 1708. I will tell about that later.

After glueing the transom in I found some voids were I did not use enough PB. I found a solution that worked very well. I will post pictures of how I repaired that soon but I will tell now.

In this spot here, a little bit of tapping let me know that there WAS a lack of PB in there. It did not sound as solid as the rest of the transom. Had a hollow sound. I found the lowest point of the hollow area. As low as I could get anyway. Also found the highest. Drilled a hole in the low with a 3/8 bit. I needed the hole big enough where I could get the tip of a....uh...turkey baster I guess I could call it. I drilled a hole in the top of the hollow area. I drilled the hole of the baster as big as I could without being greater than the 3/8's hole of the transom. Mixed some standard PB, chopped strained and all. Maybe just a touch thinner. Quickly as I could, I filled the baster with the PB. It was a little bit of a pain to fill the baster but it did good. I used a baster instead of the baggie because I needed to hold pressure against the hole so the area would fill completely. I inserted the PB from the lower hole untill the PB started popping out of the top hole. When the PB "ran" out of the hole instead of popping, I felt compfortable that the area was filled. And theres a solution to one of my many screw ups. OH yeah.... Just slapped on some tape to hold it all in.

I'll tell ya, I WILL redo and redo until I feel its right. Yes it sucks but things usally work out better the second time you do it.

I used enough PB the transom itself, I just should have just CAKED the PB in the corners.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Ok now for some pictures of some glassin I've done. Its not a work of art like Decker lays down but good enough.
Fillets first.

Thought I uploaded more fillet pics, but thats all I have on that. And I just realized I haven't posted pic of the official glueing. Here's a few of that.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

In the last pic, I know its a huge mess. I need to clean up alot. With so little time and everybody else comes first before dad, I just wanted to be more productive than clean I guess. :redface:

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

As far as glassing the transom, maybe I should have done it differently. Example: tab it in with 6in (first layer) on the hull and tran like I have read and planned to do before, long ago. Then just lay a sheet nice and flat over the rest. Right before I started glassing I took a TOO quick glance at WoG's diagram to refresh. I did not see any tabbing going on in the pic so I went for a whole sheet with no tabbing. It was kind of a PITA to get bubbles out but turned out suitable. I mixed a slow kick to give me a bit of working time because this was my official first 1708 layout. Had about a 30 minute work time and a sunburned back. Yeah, I was in the sun. Crazy how much of a difference it makes on your work time when the sun is beaming down on your work area.

TIP: Try not to glass in direct sunlight.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Have a good one fellas.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

So far, I'd say she looks pretty darn good.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Looks great to me and don't feel bad that's the way I did both layers on mine.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Hey fellas.
TDF, unfortunately I will be doing some grinding on the 2nd layer. O'well.

On a more positive note, we will be signing papers on this barge tomarrow.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Its a 2006, has like hours on it.
THIS DOES NOT MEAN I AM DONE WITH THE BASSER.
I will still work on it as often as possible.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Congrats on the toon! Saw your other thread about and now that I see it gotta say looks like sweet family ride.

Ya my first layer went great but the 2nd got some bubbles I'll have to go back and grind n touch up. No biggie.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Its been awile since I have worked on the basser. The weather has cooled so I'm back at it. Its been in the triple digits by the way. Hit a few record highs even.

The transom is officially glassed in. Prior to the installation of the wood, I laid some 1708 tabbing. I installed the laminated wood. 2 layers of 1708. Had a few bubbles so grind them out and laid more glass. I wanted to make sure the transom was level to the hull, I done this by picking two spots on the hull and measured up from those to the top of the trans. Trans is not level across. Made a "level line" with blocks and string and came up with this:

This will be addressed later. Should be a easy fix, I'll just build up with layers of scrap cloth and mat. Try to get it as close as I can, then touch it up with a grinder.

Working on the stringers right now. Sorry for the mess.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

This where I'm at with the stringers.

I used the ol' sharpe in a paint stick technique. I sharpened the stick to a round point, then drilled a hole big enough for the tip of the sharpe. Place the plain board in the hull as it was already a stringer, then just traced the hull.

As you can see during the demolition, I left about a 1/4 inch of the deck around the boat. That is were I'll get my stringer heigth. The lip around the boat is JUST fiberglass so I will deduct for the actual lumber that will be installed and also deduct for the PL Premium bedding. I'll have to look back to be certain but I think the bedding should be 1/4 inch thick.

On the transom, I used a chalk line to mark were the deck should be. I made some supports to hold the stringers up. I'll just let the pictures do the talking. If you have questions or suggestions, fire away. This is a super simple/generic way I've came up with to make my stringers. Thank you devoted Iboaters. All aspects of boating is better for me because of you guys.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Nice, simple and effective...very good job on the layout.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Did some work today before and after the rain. In these pics I was trying to get the right angles for the rear part of the stringers.

The transom is made of two parts with different angles.

I'd say its close enough due to the fact that PB is great for the lack of measurements.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I also cut out all four cross members for the center stringers. Predrilled holes. My lady picked up some stainless steel wood screws and 2 tubes of PL Premium on her way to get groceries. I will be leaveing the screws in the wood during installation. I was going to use spacers to float the stringers off the hull but I'm going with a brace from the top to hold them off.

In the pics, you see that I clamped the cross member to the stringer then drilled. I left the clamp on the CM and flipped the stringer Measured out were the next one would go.

I drilled 3 holes on each side of the CM. I drew guide lines on the outside of the stringers so I wouldn't have problems MISSING the CM.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

TIP: Never toss scrap pieces of lumber until the job is done. Keep them dry. They may not be pretty but you might just find good use for 'em.

For example:

More pics

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

GO Jitterbug GO!!! Looking GOOD!!!!