1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

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Hello to who ever reads this. Started on my Bassboat today, well actually remove the o/b yesterday. Hard to spend alot of time outside so I did a little to my boat. Heat index is like 110. Hard to breath that air.

Check out the plate that the transom had on it. Someone here on iboats asked a good question(What is the purpose? Is it because of transom failure or because PO wanted to put a larger o/b on it?) My guess is failure, I think the boat is rated for 95hp max, it has a 90 on it now. I thought the bracket raised the motor up about 2 inches, sort of like a jackplate, because if I looked at the side and to the top of the plate, it looked like there was about a 2 inch gap between the top of the transom and top of the plate. There is no gap. Original tran slopes down from the middle. Had to take the plate off in 4 pieces. The welds were breaking wile I was prying. Plate has a drain hole that I beleave was welded on after the plate was fitted. I don't think I'll be putting it back on after Im done. Anyway, This is all I've done so far.
Question: Would it be ok if I used rachet straps around the top of the hull to keep the shape? I would use clamps to hold them in place.
Thanks you guys. Have a good day.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

More pics

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Good evening all. I worked on my boat for a couple of hours today. My back was killing me.
Anyway, stringers still had "some" strength. But they still need to be replaced for sure. I cut a square out of the floor and in the process I could smell the wood burning. Also it felt pretty solid. Ripped the square piece of fiberglass off and the wood was just soaked. Sort of got my hopes up a little.
This will be a long process but I'm in for the long hual.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Hello ya'll. Hope everything is good with ya.
I beleave this will work to hold the hull's shape after I cut the floor and transom out, but I'm just a newbie and need to make sure. I will be using 2x6's in two spots, mainly the wider spots. Thanks

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

That will keep the sides from bowing out, won't do much for the hull "twist" factor. Are you leaving it on the trailer for this repair work?

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Jitterbug, building a structure while the hull is upside down worked well for me. Some may say overkill, but now I can work for the next six months with being concerned about shape change. The cap was still on when I did this. It was flat and level. Then I just flipped her back over.

2 sheet 5/8 ply - 30 bucks
10 2x4s - 24 bucks

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Thank you guys for your replies. Yes cadwelder, I am leaving it on the trailer during repairs. Do you think that with my boat being a tri-hull, it would reduce the twist. Ofcourse I don't know for sure but I was thinking that it would. I have seen many threads where it looked like people were doing repairs on trailers. Hope I didn't just totaly screw this up.
Jones, I have checked your thread out, I must say Very Nice man. I don't think I'll be doing all that though.
Also I beleave its alittle too late to change things. I haven't looked at my post until now and I started tearing up stuff at about 11 this morning. I have about a day and a half to actually do productive work in a week. Had company around 5 so it slowed things up a bit. Again thanks yall.

I was very proud of those huge chunks of foam. The big one weighed about 175 pounds Just kiddin more like 50 but still that is wet! I haven't cleaned up much inside the hull after removing the floor so it still looks like crap. sorry. I might mess up a few times during this replacement but maybe it will turn out ok. I consider this a practice round I guess. Hopefully the twist will not screw things up too bad. Anyway, good day or night, whatever it is for you right now

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

The pic with the scale was not supose to be there. oops. I took a bunch of pictures of measurements.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Ok, I just read a thread by Drewpster. I was thinking that I have already mess with the form of the hull by gutting it before I made a "hull stand". From what I gather, it is OK to gut, flip, and then build it. Man I would really like to start glassing asap. Is it THAT critical to build a stand or would the trailer itself be satisfactory?

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Thank you guys for your replies. Yes cadwelder, I am leaving it on the trailer during repairs. Do you think that with my boat being a tri-hull, it would reduce the twist. Ofcourse I don't know for sure but I was thinking that it would. I have seen many threads where it looked like people were doing repairs on trailers. Hope I didn't just totaly screw this up.

Many have done restores on the trailer...pesonally I'm not crazy about it, but anyway, I would at least add some blocks from the hull (chines) to the trailer. The tri-hull won't flex as bad as some, but it'll still flex. You don't want to get it all back together and find out you can't steer it on your first trip to the lake (experience talking there)

CW

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Cadwelder thanks for explaining what could happen. I see now that it is a major issue to be concerned with. If I did glass everything in and maybe there would be some twist in it, it would be even more difficult to steer becuase it IS a tri-hull.
Well, at work there is a lot of large wooden crates that is thrown away and donated to schools for building projects. I beleave in recycling so I guess I'll help myself to some lumber from there. I'll return it to their recycling dumpster when I'm done with it. I can fix up my trailer also. Needs to be redone aswell.
I get in a hurry sometimes and just want to get it done and getting reasons WHY it should be done this way motivates me to do that way. Thanks alot.
I will spend this week designing a cradle that will suit my hull and hopefully have the hull sitting on it by Monday.

 

[Decker83]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Jitterbug,

That's a really nice looking boat you have.
Cadwelder is telling you right. Check his threads and look at his hull supports. Jones01m's looks good too. Drewpster did a really good hull support also.
Just don't get into a big hurry and find that all your work was for nothing. There is an overwhelming amout of information here and some great guys to help you out. Take your time and get it done right and enjoy the fruits of your hard earned labor.
Oh yea, Welcome to the iboats forum.
Kent

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Good evening all. I know its early in my first build and all but, I'm aready looking into my next. I found a boat that I want, if not this, then something JUST like it, after this build. 1978 reinell 24'. It has no title. I haven't looked at it in person yet. I really do not care how rough the boat is, well it doing matter a little, but surely theres nothing wrong with it that cann't be fixed. I think I can get it at a GREAT price and might buy it and let it sit until I get this bassboat done. If you find a great deal, best not pass it up is the way I see it. Restoring old boats is truly a good project. I'm glad I stumbled on to this forum. Here it is and if you don't care, throw me a thought on it. How much would you give for it, without a running motor i assume,? Thanks guys.

PS: You know, I probably won't post a project like that because it would take about 3 or 4 years to do the dang thang.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

.

PS: You know, I probably won't post a project like that because it would take about 3 or 4 years to do the dang thang.


View attachment 109430

No age limit on threads, just keep the progress posted. But I know what you're saying.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

OK. Here is a super simple ideal for cradle. I'm sure there is something I'm missing here such as weak spots. If you all don't think it'll work, I would appreciate it if you'd let me know. Have a good one.
I thought about this at work tonight, Design will not be just like this but the points of contact will be. There will be grooves for the tips of the hull to sit in.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Scratched my cradle idea. I removed the hull from my trailer so I could adjust the ?BUNKS? on the trailer. There were alot of siezed up bolts that I just replaced so it took longer than expected. I will use extra support on the chines as cadwelder suggested. Thank u for that sir. I was going to pick up some wood for the transom and stringers tomarrow or later today actually. (I work the late shift) Instead, I'm just going to pick up stuff for the grinding. The sweat suit, wheels, box fan and also see what type of lumber HD and Lows carries. I think I'm going to go with the exterior grade ply for the backbones. I understand that you have to let the wood sit and dry out. About how long does it need to sit? I'm thinking just by looking at it I could tell if its dry or not. Or maybe cut a piece off. I know that wood never completely drys and if its not dry enough it will not accept the resin. 3/4" ply



I cann't remember who's quote it is "don't over think it", but man, I cann't help it. So many variables.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Many have said don't over think. Keep in mine it's not rocket science.

As far as the plywood, I'm not sure what you mean about drying out, unless you mean pressure treated, which personally I would not use. Standard exterior plywood is fine (marine grade is by far the best choice).

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Oh my gosh. Big ups to arrowglass for glassing the transom in. Major pain getting this thing out. Still alot to go.


4 blocks on each side for supporting the hull. Bottom doesn't flex at all. Cut each block through the middle so i could slide them to make a snug fit.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

That should work......

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Hello all. Since i have started my bass boat, I have been keeping up on the ibaots threads. You know.....checking them daily. I must say I am very thankful because I am seeing alot of bass boat threads. They are answering my questions before I even have them. Cadwelder, I read that u are the bass boat guru. Thanks for replying sir.


Have a question becuase Im too lazy to look right now.:facepalm: (Long hours at work) Can u add metal flake to rustoleum paint that would be rolled on or is it an option with the brand?