1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

fishbone77

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Hey Jitterbug,

Just checked out your thread - looks awesome! Nice job with the all the glasswork! Can't wait to see more!
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Did about 3 hours of glassing today. That includes the wait time inbetween layers. Layed 6 foot sheets on one side of a stringer. I used the wet on wet process that GT suggested earlier in my thread. Thought I would give it a shot. Worked out fine. I try to do the rest the same way, it just depends on how much time I have on a "boat" day.

I went by Woods diagram, csm, biax, csm, then biax.

Ok, I forgot to add the wax to the last layer.

Can I coat over the finished area with waxed resin and call it good or do I have to add another layer of fabric?

20120930_191049.jpg
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Also this evening, I helped the father-in-law remove a streering cable. This is how we done it. Hillbilly ingetuity.:D
This will be a future restore.

Cut the back off.
20120930_184221.jpg


Pull up on the side untill you hear crackin'....then pull harder.
20120930_190011.jpg


Cut the zip ties and call it a job well done.
20120930_184207.jpg





Just kid'n about the restore part.:D
 

Decker83

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

The glass work looks like a pro did it. Very good work. I wouldn't use any wax just yet. You need to finnish laying the glass.
I didn't use wax on my last layup. If you do use the wax I would put down some csm with it. Resin by itself will fail.
 

denlynn36

Seaman
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Sep 29, 2012
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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Discovered this post via google today after spending the day on Nolin Lake in a 74 Ebbtide i just bought yesterday :) ... Im stationed @ Knox, live in Vine Grove, but anyway, tons of great info here and a lot of this I plan on doing this winter. Now I know who to call on when I get "stuck"! (Oh and my wife and I didnt see your wedding ring, sry).

Den
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

(Oh and my wife and I didnt see your wedding ring, sry).

I'm cracking up right now......Why?

It's at the bottom of NOLIN!:facepalm: I kid you not. I lost it on the last trip. Cann't replace the first one(10 years old) but I have a new one.

Glad you joined iboats, denlynn and thank you for serving our country. Hope ya'll enjoyed Nolin as much as we have.
Lots of great info on here and people willing to share it.
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I wouldn't use any wax just yet. You need to finnish laying the glass.
I didn't use wax on my last layup. If you do use the wax I would put down some csm with it. Resin by itself will fail.

Thanks for the heads ups Decker.
 
Last edited:

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I hope everyone is have'n a good weekend. I've been working on the basser today, just taken a break wile the resin is kicking off and my back is kill'n me anyway.

I'm alternating work between the bilge box and the outside of a stringer. Instead of waste'n time waiting for the resin to kick, I move to another area and work. It takes a bit of time to cut the fabric so I precut the areas I'll be glassing today. Its moving along pretty good. I three layers down on the bilge box and just A layer along the stringer. This has been a wet on wet application. I added about 2" to each layer as I worked my way up the stringer.

Precut fabrics

20121013_141635.jpg


20121013_121824.jpg


20121013_121756.jpg


Example: 1st layer CSM 10", 2nd 1708 12", 3rd CSM 14", and 4th 1708 16".

Bilge box. Haven't added last layer of 1708 yet.

20121013_153927.jpg


Just one layer of CSM here.

20121013_153912.jpg


The paint rollers work really well at wetting the stuff out. The only problem I have is pulling the boogers off after each use. I manage though.
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I made a trip to the store this morning for more cups and rollers and found this.

20121013_111654.jpg


Is that perfect for mixing PB or what? The metal mixer I have would get the hairs cought in it. I don't think it would happen on this one. Works good for the regular mixes ofcourse.

Bought this a few weeks ago because it was highly recommended. Thought I needed it a little wile back.....but I didn't. Will come in handy for the paint I'm sure.

20121013_111728.jpg
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Messages
25,929
Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

You will LOVE that sander!!! You can even get a shop vac adapter for it and it will really keep the dust down. with 36 grit paper it will do some damage to large build ups of resin.
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

You will LOVE that sander!!! You can even get a shop vac adapter for it and it will really keep the dust down. with 36 grit paper it will do some damage to large build ups of resin.

Wood, you suggested it many times in many threads so I thought it must be a good'un. Cann't wait to see what it can do.
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Sad day yesterday, I winterized the toon.:( The 303 vinyl cleaner made the scrub'n easy. Maybe the 303 protectant will make it easy for the spring cleaning next year.

Since the weather has been varying (daytime temps:50 to 80), on the colder days I measure and cut layers. On the warm sunny days I'll lay as much as I can in the sort time I have after work. It maybe just a little work but its waaaay better than no work. Today I layed 4 layers in the second "box" from the back. No pics of the final layer. I'll post some after I get more done.

20121022_164825.jpg


Pics of some precut layers.

20121022_164922.jpg


20121022_164802.jpg
 

Decker83

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Your gettting alot done in little time. It all looks great. If you don't have one, get a resin roller made of aluminum and roll down the little boogers. They help bust up air bubbles too. Keep up the good work.
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

If you don't have one, get a resin roller made of aluminum and roll down the little boogers. They help bust up air bubbles too.

Ok, Decker, I can take a hint. You must see some air bubbles.:p
Not everybody can lay glass and make it as purdy as yours....OK.:)
 

Decker83

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Your doing great. I didn't see any air bubbles. I just don't like fighten the little boogers. The resin rollers really help, just keep them in some acetone when in use and clean them before you put them up.:D
 

Seasonally.boating.jon

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I have one. Never got the hang of it really. It may be the type I have or my technique(<---more than likely), but it seemed to always push the fabric instead of roll over it. Like, if I was rolling down the stringer (top to bottom or vice versa), it would drag the cloth in the direction I was rolling. I may be adding too much resin or something. Anyway I've gott'n used to the nap roller and brushes. I go through the nap rollers but I've been useing the same brushes for a wile now. I've used the bubble buster for the really flat areas like the transome though.:D
 

GT1000000

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Jul 13, 2011
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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

Any progress is good progress...looking real good, J:D

And yep, using the bubble buster is definitely an acquired skill...:redface:...sometimes, instead of rolling it, I just kind of push with it...also, a quick dip in acetone, just before you use it, helps to keep it from sticking and pulling up the mat...
 

Decker83

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I think one of the key things with the resin roller is to keep it very clean and make sure it will turn freely. I will take mine apart and clean the shaft the the roller rides on with sandpaper. I have also burned it and wire brush it down. I always keep it in a pail of acetone while I use it. This keeps the resin from loading up on it and trying to kick. I only use the roller right after I apply the resin, if you wait to long and the resin has just started to kick, it will pull up the glass and make a mess. I hope this helps.
 

fishbone77

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

I do the same as Decker - I use a wire-brush drill-bit to clean out the grooves before using it, and I store it in laquer-thinner between uses - this usually eventually kicks for me but only forms a gelatin-like consistency which is easily cleaned...I also have to periodically take it apart for cleaning to make sure it spins freely.

I find that the roller does a nice job of pushing up bubbles, but then I run a spatula over the cloth again to break the bubbles and finish it.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1976 Arrowglass transom replacement and then some

From the sound of it, I'd say you are using too much resin. The CSM will go clear with less resin than you think. Remember easy to add more, NOT so easy to get it off. I use a skinny Single Rose Vase with a 4" square piece of wood glued to it to put the bubble roller in. Don't have to use much acetone to fill the vase and I keep the used acetone in a separate container. Works Great!!!! As others have stated It MUST be clean and free rolling to work as designed.
 
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