1978 Islander 22 I/O

[Watermann]

That's pencil... I'm talking about zooming in and looking at the teak string the engine is sitting on.

I see what you're saying the motor mount block, terminology I guess as I see most guys calling the deck supports a stinger too.

 

[SHSU]

Man that stinks, so split along its grain.

SHSU

 

[66Holiday924]

I took apart the windows. The side windows aren't cracked or broken or anything, the front cabin window is though, and the plan is to have it remade, and I want all of the windows to match so I'm going to have them all rebuilt. I'm leaning toward a dark tint plexiglass, something that makes it hard to see what's inside.

So, now to get the windows off to the plexiglass shop, and clean the frames up.

 

[66Holiday924]

I've been getting some work done on the Islander and I'm about a month behind on my updates. My work has been kind of spread, so I'm going to update it with each individual component that I've worked on so it's easier to follow.

The first thing I worked on was getting the fuel tank installed. I ordered the tank custom from RDS and had a really good experience. They worked with me until it was exactly what I wanted and took the time to learn about my project and offered some pointers. It's one of those things though, you're basically biting your nails until it is in place, and you can see it's going to work.

I laid the tank into position, between the port and starboard stringers. Then on the ends (fore & aft), I cleaned, slightly modified and reinstalled the bulkheads to complete the rectangle and encase the tank. As recommended by RDS, I used 3/8 nitrile rubber strips as a buffer between the bottom of the tank and the ribs, and on the ends, leaving a little bit of room for expansion. The strips were applied with 5200. I buttered them, stuck them in place, ensuring that there was no way for water to get between the rubber and the tank, and then let them cure for a few days before the install.

The aft bulkhead, from Starcraft, was designed with a nice little one inch opening hole. It looks nice but in my opinion is a design flaw. That opening could easily become obstructed and the bulkhead would then help to trap water in the bilge. So, I opened it up. I'm kind of obsessed with water management in the bilge and working to keep it dry. I like any water in the bilge to be able to flow easily to the bilge pump, and I like the bilge to be able to dry while the boat is not in use.

I had more pictures, but they are too large to post...

 

[66Holiday924]

I decided that I want the weight of the batteries to help balance out the boat and as of now I'm planning on four batteries, two for the boat, two for downriggers & other accessories. I think having that weight up front behind the cabin will help give the boat a better ride.

My plan is for the batteries to rest behind the cabin and to recess them into the floor as much as possible, so I don't have a 10" box sticking up. So, where the rest of my decking is going to be framed up 2", the area of the batteries will not be. Instead, the batteries will rest on 1/4" aluminum plating. So, I installed my plating with the closed cell insulation foam under for floatation.

 

[66Holiday924]

The cabin framing wood all seemed solid except the front piece, directly under the front cabin window. So, I rebuilt that with a piece of mahogany, treated it with my Old Timer's Formula (OTF) and reinstalled it.

After the mahogany was installed, I cleaned up the aluminum trim piece that runs across the top and reinstalled it using a dab of 5200 on the screws, so in the future if the window leaks, in addition to the OTF, there will be protection at the screws.

The rest of the framing was solid (appears to be oak). I went screw to screw and torqued it all back down.