1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Upon return was going to copy H2O man's famous 5 day blitz and work on the boat butttt, the anchor......errrrr Admiral had a few other plans.

Did some snooping at work and found we actually stock some 10-32 SS Hex head screws...just the right length for the bulkheads as trhough bolting to both sides of ribs.

Also found some rubber molding and with a bit of trimming fit right over the cutouts did on the bulkheads so no sharp edges in case run some wiring later:



Only had one more bay to cut foam for so might as well get it done. As we all have learned this stuff goes everywhere:



I keep getting knocked off line so will finish this up later !
 

Watermann

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Hey SG, nice pike there man, I have never caught one of those northerns. Although we do have some in our state and some tiger musky. The weather, yeah the only good about it being cold is that your beer doesn't get warm before you finish it.

I sure hope you don't ever have to use those holes you cut in the bulkheads for water flow. I went out for 5 days, water over bow, stopped up livewell drain, rain poured down and the water in the bilge never even reached the pump pick up. I truly think that my bilge pump will rarely if ever get used again now that the hull is sealed up tight. All I had to do is use a big sponge in the bilge to pull out what water was there.

Keep moving forward, any progress is still progress. Oh and I bought a $600 basket case 18 ft Starcraft Chieftain this week... Look out!
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Thanks for stopping by H20:

Admittedly got a bit carried away with those cutouts. The rear bulkhead only had 1/2 clearance above the stringer for flow.

Nice job on the Chieftain. Lookout is right. Will be tagging on when you start the thread.
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Lets see if browser treats me better and cant catch up.

Cut out foam for rearmost compartment. Only thing left now is pieces parts for cabinets on final install:





Cleanup time:

 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

OK, one more significant job ahead and then start the put together.

The hull and leaks are up next. I did a leak test previously and marked some bad spots. Also saw where Po used some RTV silicone for some patchwork and some other gook which I think is bondo such as marinetex. So flip it and start the check out.

Bondo everywhere. The black pieces in this pic are some bondo chuncks upside down after I chipped them out. They were wet underneath. He started at front of boat and went down both sides of keel.



Then that wasnt enough, he started gooping up rivet heads:

 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

OK, putzed around with variety of tools trying to determine how easy could make this bondo removal. Ended up with small cold steel chisel and got some good size strips to lift up....but mainly they were already wet underneath.

Even got a strip up and the rivet head came with it. Beauty eh:



Got out the 3000 psi power washer and even with turbo nozzle and or the smallest stream nozzle no effect on bondo after got the easy stuff off.
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Lost post on next 4 pics with comments so give this computer a rest for the nite.
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Previously discovered, from inside of hull a crack at end of a rib. As I got adjoining area on bottom cleaned up discovered more cracks.

The middle section of this pic is the previous crack, with rivets drilled out and stop crack holes:





Closer view of original crack I found:



Looking closer, this is end of adjoining rib towards bow:

Hard to see, but crack is just through both rivets but has connected yet...





Here is end of adjoining rib towards stern:




Well, just keep chipping, sanding, picking away with a few updates along the way.
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Wood, thanks for the looksee.

I may change this a bit after all cleaned up but an alum patch on outside of hull. Probably long enough to cover all three ribs. Probably going to ss bolt them thru hull and sandwich with 5200.

If the rib was cracked would reconsider to something maybe like Watermann and Grandad.

Still letting this roll around a bit as to why this area is weak, but thinking similar to Grandad's situation where rivets broke on bulkhead in my case.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

As you know, I'm not a tinner, but if I was, That's exactly what I would do. Fabricate a patch for the outside and either use 3M 5200 or PC11 to coat it first then Rivet it in place with closed end Rivets. Use Coat-It or Gluvit on the inside and I'd consider it good to go. But again, I'm just talkin thru my hat cuz I've never owned or worked on a Tin Can. Hopefully one day, I'll learn by doing!!!!:D
 

Watermann

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Jeez SG you have some tough work ahead of you fixing those cracks, keel and rivets. What is it with people and the goop they put on the outside, it doesn't work that way at all. I used a drill with a 3M wheel fiber wheel, it eats that JB weld or bondo garbage right off and it only leaves minor scratches to the aluminum.

I agree with a cover patch fix, SS bolts & nylocs all bedded in 5200 and then a smattering of gluvit epoxy to cover the inside. If you can, maybe put a matching patch on the inside to sandwich the repair and isolate it like a split. Actually all of my below the waterline rivets and repairs got coated inside with gluvit.

So are you going to strip the paint from the hull?
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

A tough week folks.

My whole purpose is to expose the loose rivets / replace, find the good rivets and gflex, get the bondo off the keel seams and glex but frustrating trying to find a method to get the goop off.

I am not painting hull or boat as it is a fish machine. I want it in the water soon. If paint or further remodeling it can take place in future or by my heirs after they read this.

So gave whole bottom a blasting with a turbo nozzle and then the 'red" tip:



Crazy, it didnt touch most of the bondo stuff and only sections of the paint. Some of the paint flew off while other areas wouldnt budge. I think there was some excellent prep in some areas while others didnt hold up or werent done correctly.


Tried the wire wheels and cups, tried the 3m fiber wheels and cups, got a smaller width cold steel chisel, got some 60 grit sandpaper for orbital and mouse......wow not much good by any of them.

Got to the point that thought would have to take out more rivets just to clean up smeg:




So had a series of rivets that were loose and obviously following a rib so since couldnt clean up close to them just started drilling them out then heard this sound like from the way back machine when Wiley Coyote opens one of those famous Acme boxes:

You remember "Sproing" Guess there was just too much tension on the rib but it's all good.

This was the "sproing" section:

 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

So feeling a bit down and then thought of trying some fire. Propane torch worked good and so did the heat gun.

Just about done with clean up and will be putting on patch and gflex if weather holds.
 

Watermann

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Lots of elbow grease at this stage! Seeing all that garbage smeared on the hull rivets makes a guy feel like rolling up a fresh ball of that goop and shoving up the PO's backside after dunking it in some hot sauce just for good measure.

Glad something worked to remove the stuff, but be careful using the torch around the keel where the rubber seal is sandwiched. You don't have much more paint to remove from the bottom. Do you plan on using some klean strip to finish removing the paint and then leave it bare?

It's amazing how fast things go back together after the hull repairs are done, you have any date in mind for the splash?
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Question / opinion please.

After drilling stop crack holes should leave them as is or put a rivet into them?

Not concerned about leaking as patch will cover stop crack holes very nicely.
 

Grandad

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Question / opinion please.

After drilling stop crack holes should leave them as is or put a rivet into them?

Not concerned about leaking as patch will cover stop crack holes very nicely.
Hi Streetgang. I drilled smaller holes than you and just smeared 5200 across them as filler. I didn't know what size hole to drill. Your larger holes may actually be better in that the pinpoint stress will spread over a larger hole circumference. I'd fill your larger holes with rivets. If I had to do it again, that's what I'd do.

In regard to whether to add the patch on the inside or outside, I still think the inside is the better way to go. An outside patch is subject to whatever mechanical damage you can throw at it; rocks, logs, trailer cross-members, etc, but that's how the OEM strakes are installed. An outside patch will require more rivets around its edges and when you're done, the hull will look patched. - Grandad
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

An outside patch is subject to whatever mechanical damage you can throw at it; rocks, logs, trailer cross-members, etc, - Grandad

Grandad, thank you for the looksee and review.

Although I have seen the Trent Severn in many different locations, I had no idea Canuckistanians ran into so much debris. Trailer crossmembers.....beauty !
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Hey SG, I think you should really investigate this stuff...http://www.por15.com It's really good at sealing small holes, cracks etc. and is really tough. Great reviews.
 

Streetgang

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Re: 1979 Sea Nymph FM 161 resto

Thinking will take Grandad's advice and put a rivet or fastener into the stop crack hole.

After considering it some more still going to put the patch on outside. Primary reason is there is some good force going on in this span of 3 ribs....remember the "Sproing" when drilled out last loose rivet on the rib.

The ribs are pulling hard on the hull at the end. Not sure if they were formed incorrectly, maybe related to the many loose rivets on the bulkheads which are attached to the ribs or what. Will look this over again when flip boat back over.

The rivets were actually starting to counter sink a bit into hull from the force. Hard to see in pics as I have already sanded them down a bit.



Where the largest crack is you can feel how much higher the hull is on the gunwal side than on the keel side. Hard to see but running a finger over it tells right off. Same thing on next 2 ribs aft.



By putting the patch, about 4" wide by about 3' long, .125 5052H32 the fasteners will be pulling against the patch and not the keel.

Hope this makes some kind of sense.
 
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