1981 Springbok 18' Restoration/Renovation

[SlipperyOar]

They just use stainless wood screws, #14 I think. Pre drill the holes, and run the screws in. Trying to use T nuts would require way too much precision. You would have to dry fit the floor, take it back out, put the nuts on the bottom, and put everything back in without any shifting at all. They always shift a bit.

good to know, i figured it needed a bolted connection to hold the pedestal base secure with the forces exerted on it while riding. It's got 6 mounting holes so the forces should be spread out quite well. Last thing i want is for the seat to rip out from the floor. I've got 1/8" aluminum angle for the subfloor beneath 4/6 of the holes so if i add another piece beneath the last two holes itll be secured into the floor and subfloor.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

I've got 1/8" aluminum angle for the subfloor beneath 4/6 of the holes so if i add another piece beneath the last two holes itll be secured into the floor and subfloor.

That sounds pretty good to me, as long as you don't drill the holes in the angle too big. Are the angles in the front pedestal holes? Those will take the most force from the seat pulling back, so they should have the widest force dispersal you can get.

 

[SlipperyOar]

That sounds pretty good to me, as long as you don't drill the holes in the angle too big. Are the angles in the front pedestal holes? Those will take the most force from the seat pulling back, so they should have the widest force dispersal you can get.

the angles are beneath the front 2 and back two currently, but its a 10 minute job to trim another piece and rivet into the subfloor frame for the middle two. The big goal of this whole build was to make it a way that can be modified without starting over.

 

[SlipperyOar]

Had some extra time on my hands and haven't been able to get out in the garage to work on my boat so I made up these designs for my electrical switches. Going to use some of the remaining aluminum panels I've got to make these. I thought it would make the console look matched together being all the same style, this way the switches are all mounted evenly and i can neatly wire behind the dash with everything being uniform. Will update with pictures once I get these cut out and glued to the aluminum so i can cut to size and file the corners down to all be the same radius.

EDIT* with my livewell timer I was planning on getting a timer switch so it can run for 30 seconds and then i can vary how long it stays off, to conserve battery life. I plan on adding a 3 way switch beside the timer so it can run on the timer or manually. This way i can fill it up completely and then switch to the timer since I can't imagine 30 seconds will get it full.

 

[83bluefin]

You could simplify that a touch by omitting the timer and just use one of these to drive an air stone/bubbler…

Aquarium Co-Op Air Pump with Battery Backup for Sponge Filters & More

Run this quiet, rechargeable USB air pump from a wall outlet or without power for 8 hours. Perfect for power outages or portable transportation of fish.

www.aquariumcoop.com

Having too many aquariums running to count, your fish want oxygen exchange which happens when the surface is agitated. And these are USB rechargeable.

Or look into any of the bait saver bubblers for 5Gal buckets as they do the same thing.

 

[SlipperyOar]

You could simplify that a touch by omitting the timer and just use one of these to drive an air stone/bubbler…

Aquarium Co-Op Air Pump with Battery Backup for Sponge Filters & More

Run this quiet, rechargeable USB air pump from a wall outlet or without power for 8 hours. Perfect for power outages or portable transportation of fish.

www.aquariumcoop.com

Having too many aquariums running to count, your fish want oxygen exchange which happens when the surface is agitated. And these are USB rechargeable.

Or look into any of the bait saver bubblers for 5Gal buckets as they do the same thing.

Looks like a neat device but my livewell will contain fish that are heading right to the freezer or deep fryer, not much catch and release going on for the species im targeting. My livewell has a recirculation and overflow line in place to keep the water fresh/cool just until i get back to the docks and throw them on ice.

 

[SlipperyOar]

Got all of the wooden components cut to fit and the holes needed to rivet/screw/bolt into place done. The last things I’ll have to determine is the seat placement and where I need to drill holes. I’m going to be using 1/8” aluminum riveted to the subfloor and then the seats will mount to the plate through the floor to provide a bigger area to spread those forces out. In the meanwhile I’ve been using the OTF to seal up all the wood and then finishing off with a coat of paint for some added sealant. Waiting on my marine vinyl to be delivered so I can begin wrapping the pieces.

Once the seat locations are figured out and I get the backing plates mounted and holes drilled I believe I’ll be at the point where I can remove everything from the hull and shoot colour onto it. It’s been a long journey but the end is slowly becoming in sight.

 

[SlipperyOar]

Began wrapping the plywood in the Nautolex marine vinyl I ordered, super impressed with how well this stuff bends around the boards as well as how easy it it to work around inside corners and soft corners. Only the 2 main deck pieces to go but awaiting on some more vinyl cement before I get that done.

Also over drilled the seat mounting holes and filled with epoxy, used a 3/4 holesaw and then I’ll drill to 1/2” as it’s the size I’ll need to install the snap toggler bolts in place.

 

[SlipperyOar]

A little bit of painting done here, have yet to prime and paint the passenger console since I need to adjust the latch so the glovebox properly closes and holds so instead I did all the other interior components. Got 2 coats of epoxy primer shot on the transom and then have to spray colour, didn’t want to mix a small cup of grey when I can wait until I have more parts that will be grey ready to go.
Go lions!

 

[SlipperyOar]

Got the interior or the hull epoxy primed and shot the grey today, tomorrow I’ll be able to tape off and put the blue on. I’ll be officially done painting everything after tomorrow. Started attaching the hinges today, the bow pieces won’t be in until I put foam in the hull and finish attaching the subfloor framing.

 

[SlipperyOar]

Finally finished painting, a day later than I originally hoped to. There were some marks on the gunnels from when I had welded existing mounting holes up that left some warpage along with some grinding marks. I always wanted to do it once, do it right so I took the time Thursday to fill in all of them with thickened g flex 650 epoxy. Some only needed a skim coat, others needed a bit more filling, washing the amine blush off each time until I was happy with the result. Sprayed everything with more epoxy primer to seal it in and then shot the remaining blue colour. Taping the inside off to keep the grey, grey, was by far the most tedious job but I’m happy with the results.

Gonna install the transom when I next have some time to do so and get the bolts sealed up so I can pop it into the water for one last check to make sure there’s zero leaks. I’ve checked once already and it was dry but want to guarantee this before I start foaming beneath the floor and installing the flooring panels.

The last modification/fabrication I’ll have to do on the project will be involving the fuel tank. It’s currently got the fuel pickup pointing to the opposite end of the tank of the fill/vent nozzles. I’m wanting to rotate it 180° because the fill/vents fit perfectly to run up the side of the boat and to the gunnel on the port side but doing this would have the pickup tube always at a higher point while under way. I’m gonna give the tank a good soapy wash out and I’ve also considered running an argon purge through it when it comes time to weld the pickup nozzle back to the tank.