Ahh, gotcha. I've never personally run it dry but who knows what the previous owners did...
Haha thanks man. Born and raised in New England, spent 28 years there before moving south a few years ago. Know all about ice. Never looking back!!great news thanks for your feedback.Happy fishing ! here the ice cubes get in the way.
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Been eyeing the forecast - 56 and partly sunny on Sunday in South Carolina. Should be a great day to get out on the water! Cold front next week though.Ahhhh.....pond hockey and lobster rolls.....what could be better!
No I haven't tried that yet, but good idea. I don't have a tank large enough but I see this can be done using a mixing unit connected to muffs so maybe I should try that first before opening everything up:
these particular motors will run on the verge of overheating if one or both lower exhaust seals are leaking. especially the upper one if that leaks/gets pinched, it will get hot. there needs to be a "wall of water" cooling the exhaust which is impossible without the seal. easy way to tell if this is the case though: after about 5 min of idling, does water spray out the 2 exhaust relief holes yes or no? this signifies the poppet valves are sealing properly when no water comes out. ditto for t stat. but when the t stat opens water should come out! at high speed the poppet valves come off their seats and dump water. id get a $12 IR temp gun of amazon and check the flat spot top of the head. needs to be between 125-155f there. not the middle. not the bottom. flat spot on top. 2nd possiblity but still almost as common: since this motor got hot, it could be melted the water tube grommet under the powerhead, or its just crusty ad swollen 2/3 shut making it overheat at higher speed/pressures. as suggested head gasket is easy to do and check for water intrusion as well.
Roger that. I’ve never seen water come out of the exhaust slits but I’ll check next time. I installed a brand new thermostat and poppet valve grommet recently. The poppet valve itself was in perfect condition. I will for sure bring a temp gun next time to scan the cylinder head too and report the temps back here.
I pulled the cylinder head cover (water jacket) but not the cylinder head itself. I don’t have a pressure gauge but I’ve been meaning to get one. I was told when I bought it there was 140 psi in each cylinder but who knows if that’s still the case.
Bolts in the cylinder head should be OK (hopefully). I’ve heard that flushing the motor will help prevent salt buildup, but if there’s already a clog, the best thing to do is open it up and chisel away at it. I’m still trying to decide how I want to approach this. Probably would be easier to start with a good flush and go from there like a few of you have mentioned.
Does your motor overheat at idle? If so then yes pulling it apart will be better.
Nope, runs perfectly fine at idle. It's not until I start accelerating past, say, 2000/2500 RPMs or so that the high-pitch ringing sound starts. It was very faint this time, almost inaudible. Changing the water pump seems to have helped a lot. It only overheats when under load at speed.
