1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

[NavyTechVet]

This is her. Ive called her a lot of different names in the last couple of weeks, but I dont think any of them are appropriate to post here.

These are the pix taken then day I picked her up.

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

And these were taken this past Sunday, 7/8/2012

Still gotta LONG way to go, but its slowly coming together.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Slow and steady wins the restoration race Looks allot better with the windshields!!

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

And it will be even better with upholstery... and seats... and working electrical... and a running motor.

 

[countryboy26047]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

And it will be even better with upholstery... and seats... and working electrical... and a running motor.

Eh, MINOR details!! without all that stuff, it would still look good floating on the water........from a distance lol.. Seriously though, looks like it's coming together nicely... gonna be one hell of a nice boat!

 

[aspeck]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

looks like lots of potential! Just remember to keep it fun ... the moment it becomes work, you are doomed! Anxious to see her all polished and shined and ready for water!

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Eh, MINOR details!! without all that stuff, it would still look good floating on the water........from a distance lol.. Seriously though, looks like it's coming together nicely... gonna be one hell of a nice boat!

It really does look good. From a distance! With the Chevy 350 sitting under the cowl, Im hoping she flies. The motor was the best part. Over the weekend, I wired in a new ignition switch since the guy I got it from couldnt find the keys. Naturally, nothing under the dash was labeled. So naturally (again), I hooked up the accy and starter backwards. When I switched to accy, the engine kicked over. At least I know it isnt seized up now. But I figured before any more accidents happened, I better check to make sure it had oil. I pulled the dip stick out and was greeted with an unexpected sight. The oil was brand new, no water, no sludge. A little bit of vinegar and I could make salad dressing. The motor has less than 250 hours on it since its rebuild, and it looks like the oil was changed at the 200 hour mark. Ive got high hopes for this thing.

looks like lots of potential! Just remember to keep it fun ... the moment it becomes work, you are doomed! Anxious to see her all polished and shined and ready for water!

Being a fat kid, anything that makes you sweat is not considered fun. It is work, but I think it will be worth it. Even if I get it together then sell it and buy another boat. Still worth it.

Im not sure how much polishing and shining Im going to do. Keep it clean, of course. I dunno. Thats too far down the line to really think about.

I do know Ive never thrown myself into a project like I have with this one. And Ive had more than my fair share of project cars. But Im really stoked about getting this boat together and getting it on the water. Even the wife is excited to see it come to fruition. Something I never saw from her when it came to the multitudes of cars!

 

[countryboy26047]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Hey, not sure if you already know this or not, but your gonna want to replace the impeller for the water pump before you fire up that engine, and make sure you got muffs to put on it when u do...

Also, just a rough guess, but with a 350 in that, depending on prop size/pitch of course, I would say you'll probably run in the neighborhood of 50-60mph WOT.

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

:facepalm: Being a car guy, I shouldve thought about that. It hasnt been started in at least two years, probably more. As for everything else, Im hoping a bottle of fuel system treatment will clean out anything else gummed up in the system.

Ive been so deep in everything else, I have no idea what the pitch and size of the prop are. None. If the weather allows, and if I remember, I'll post those numbers this weekend.

 

[countryboy26047]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

:facepalm: Being a car guy, I shouldve thought about that.

eh, not necessarily man... the cooling system for the 'older' boats is different from a car/truck.. unless you have a big 'ol cabin cruiser, the cooling systems on boat's doesn't consist of a radiator or anti-freeze... your motor draws in water through the outdrive through 'fins' that are typically located on the main outdrive case.. these fins draw the water from the lake/river that your on, through the drive, and into the engine, where it meets a thermostat like your car has.. I would say that after sitting for so long, I wouldn't even risk trying the old impeller, but rather just replace it.. their easy to change, and cheap to boot. Once that's done, hook up your water muffs to a hose, then slide them over the fins/water intake.. Once it's running, you should see a "pee stream" of water coming back out of the outdrive, usually on the back of the case...

If you already knew or had an idea on everything I just said, I apologize, don't mean to insult anyone's intelligence, just tryin to help out and make sure ya don't fry that motor.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Have you checked the integrity of the transom, motor mounts, etc...?

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

eh, not necessarily man... the cooling system for the 'older' boats is different from a car/truck.. unless you have a big 'ol cabin cruiser, the cooling systems on boat's doesn't consist of a radiator or anti-freeze... your motor draws in water through the outdrive through 'fins' that are typically located on the main outdrive case.. these fins draw the water from the lake/river that your on, through the drive, and into the engine, where it meets a thermostat like your car has.. I would say that after sitting for so long, I wouldn't even risk trying the old impeller, but rather just replace it.. their easy to change, and cheap to boot. Once that's done, hook up your water muffs to a hose, then slide them over the fins/water intake.. Once it's running, you should see a "pee stream" of water coming back out of the outdrive, usually on the back of the case...

If you already knew or had an idea on everything I just said, I apologize, don't mean to insult anyone's intelligence, just tryin to help out and make sure ya don't fry that motor.

Most of it I knew, but dont worry about feeling like youre talking down to me. Id rather have someone tell me something I know in the chance of it being something I dont know, than not being told something I dont know but should know, ya know?

I do need to pose my first stupid question now though. I knew that there was a place to hook a hose up to the boat to cool the motor, but I dont know what, or where, to look. Is that what a "muff" is? If not, what is it?

Have you checked the integrity of the transom, motor mounts, etc...?

Indeed I have. Transom is solid as a rock, and the motor mounts are brand new. The guy had done a full rebuild of the motor and out drive. Though its been sitting for a while, it seems to be well taken care of.

 

[countryboy26047]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Most of it I knew, but dont worry about feeling like youre talking down to me. Id rather have someone tell me something I know in the chance of it being something I dont know, than not being told something I dont know but should know, ya know?

I do need to pose my first stupid question now though. I knew that there was a place to hook a hose up to the boat to cool the motor, but I dont know what, or where, to look. Is that what a "muff" is? If not, what is it?

Right on man, I feel the same way about being told how/why to do something!!

As for the question on cooling... take a pic of your outdrive and post it here and I/we can better point out where the water get's 'sucked in'... but, I wrangled up a pic of some old outdrive (not mine... it's too dark to try and get a pic of mine right now).. Keep in mind, the inlets may look different depending on manufacturer, however, any outdrive I've ever seen has the water inlets in the same basic location.

I have put a red circle around the inlet's (probably an actual name for 'em, but you get the picture lol) They look like slots that slope into holes.. Also, just for FYI, the 'plate' that I put the green rectangle around is called a cavitation plate.. it's the part that looks like a fin just above the prop...


Now, as for the water muffs, they just attach to a garden hose, and slip onto the outdrive, making sure to cover the inlet's for the water pump, like the picture below shows... When the motor is started, the impeller begins sucking the water from the garden hose into those inlet's, and up into the engine. If there isn't a set of muff's in the boat somewhere, you can pick them up at most sporting goods stores that carry marine supplies, as well as some of the super walmarts.

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Thanks for that. I'll see if I can convince the wife to drag three kids to the local boating store. Its easier than ME dragging three kids to the boating store!

Ive still got a long ways to go before I start attempting anything with the motor just yet, but it will be good to already have them.

Tomorrow, Im hoping I can finish up the hardware (cleats and hinges), and then start on the electrical. On my initial check, I had no accy's or lights, but I since I accidentally bumped the starter, I know Ive got power to the switch. Time to dust off the multimeter!

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Both back cushions in the bow are now on. Cleats have to be replaced. The nuts were rusted to the studs. Ive decided to not put the little wood pieces back on. Im missing two of them, one's broken, and its just something I dont feel like messing up. Not to mention that most of the holes were filled and repainted.

While I was cleaning up yesterday, I stepped on the gas tank, and it broke the floor.... After I broke it, I took a real close look at the whole floor, I have a section of rotten floor that measures about 2.5x4 ft. Now here's the kicker, I dont know ANYTHING about floor repair, and even if I did, I wouldnt trust my "awesome" carpentry skills on something like that. I know electrical, electronic, and mechanical. I guess this means my priorities have to get refocused on to getting the trailer towable and taking it to get the floor fixed.

This just got more expensive than I planned on.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

eh, not necessarily man... the cooling system for the 'older' boats is different from a car/truck.. unless you have a big 'ol cabin cruiser, the cooling systems on boat's doesn't consist of a radiator or anti-freeze...

Simply put..not totally accurate .. some do have AF and them big 'ol cabin cruisers ( Inboard motors ) have lake draw for cooling and not a radiator and AF. Some Might have assisted AF.

your motor draws in water through the outdrive through 'fins' that are typically located on the main outdrive case.. these fins draw the water from the lake/river that your on, through the drive, and into the engine, where it meets a thermostat like your car has.. I would say that after sitting for so long, I wouldn't even risk trying the old impeller, but rather just replace it.. their easy to change, and cheap to boot. Once that's done, hook up your water muffs to a hose, then slide them over the fins/water intake.. Once it's running, you should see a "pee stream" of water coming back out of the outdrive, usually on the back of the case...

If you already knew or had an idea on everything I just said, I apologize, don't mean to insult anyone's intelligence, just tryin to help out and make sure ya don't fry that motor.

I think your thinking of an Outboard.. there is no 'pee stream' with an I/O .. not that I am aware of. The exhaust goes through the hub of the prop.

Inboard motors draw water then exhaust through ports on the hull ( look for water coming out of those ports ). You cant fire them up out of the water unless you have someone under the boat with a Plunger Style ( or box for the bigger boats ) water hookup.

Outboards motors keep them cooling through the vents on the lower shaft ( use the Muffs ) and have nothing to do with through hull fittings/pickups for water. They are independent from the boat. You look for that 'pee stream' for outboards.

Inboard/outboard drives have there cooling systems intergrated. The drive and the Motor is cooled off from 'lake water' .. it comes from your drive unit and not from a through hull pickup.

Yes I agree that you need to change out your Impeller .. change it every two years depending on the use of the boat and how its stored.

Im no engine expert..but I know a few ..

YD.

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

I have scoured these boards and have been fully innundated with more acronyms than the military. Im lost on this now. There are so many different threads with different facts and thoughts and opinions on what wood to what epoxy to what fiberglass to what mat, Im just flat out confused.

Keep in mind, Im a noob at this. Both with boating and boat restorations. I need someone to make it plain and simple and spell it out for me line item by line item. What do I need for a deck? What is the benefit of say, marine grade ply wood versus a well sealed OSB Underlayment? What kind of epoxy is used to fully encapsulate the wood? What do I need to re-fiberglass it? What glass rosin will bond to the epoxy that I use to seal the deck wood?

Ive got a good idea of how much Im going to be cutting out, and how Im going to cut it out. Becuase of how the boat is molded, I cant remove the wood all the way to the hull. So, Im going to use a circular saw as close the edge of the body work as I can get, with the blade set at the bare minimum depth at a 45 degree angle so the replacement deck can use that as additional support. With any luck, it can come out as one piece so I can use it as a template. Once my cuts are made, I should be able to just set the new wood (after its been sealed) into place. Does it get screwed down to the stringers? Does it just sit there and rely on the fiberglass to hold it in place?


Ive talked to the previous owner (who is also a coworker), and he told me that he did the floor about seven years ago and the stringers were flawless. It hasnt seen water since then, so the rot that it has now is from neglect, not from water seepage, so the foam should be dry too. In a perfect world of restoration (a laughable phrase if Ive ever heard one!), all I should need to do is cut and remove the floor, cut the new floor, seal it, screw it down, glass it, and should be done. (right?)

What I need to know are details, but they need to be dumbed down for me so I can understand what you are saying. And please keep in mind, I am on a VERY tight budget. I cant afford to drop $1000 on just the deck. If I could, I would be taking the boat to a shop to be repaired and not attempting something this far outside of my realm of experience. I need cheap (as possible) and effective (as possible).

Thanks to anyone in advance who can untangle the knot of an overabundance of information for me.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

I have scoured these boards and have been fully innundated with more acronyms than the military. Im lost on this now. There are so many different threads with different facts and thoughts and opinions on what wood to what epoxy to what fiberglass to what mat, Im just flat out confused.

Keep in mind, Im a noob at this. Both with boating and boat restorations. I need someone to make it plain and simple and spell it out for me line item by line item. What do I need for a deck? What is the benefit of say, marine grade ply wood versus a well sealed OSB Underlayment? What kind of epoxy is used to fully encapsulate the wood? What do I need to re-fiberglass it? What glass rosin will bond to the epoxy that I use to seal the deck wood?

Ive got a good idea of how much Im going to be cutting out, and how Im going to cut it out. Becuase of how the boat is molded, I cant remove the wood all the way to the hull. So, Im going to use a circular saw as close the edge of the body work as I can get, with the blade set at the bare minimum depth at a 45 degree angle so the replacement deck can use that as additional support. With any luck, it can come out as one piece so I can use it as a template. Once my cuts are made, I should be able to just set the new wood (after its been sealed) into place. Does it get screwed down to the stringers? Does it just sit there and rely on the fiberglass to hold it in place?

Sorry bout that NYV .. I somehow didnt even bother diggin any deeper into the last post you made because of

I dont know ANYTHING about floor repair, and even if I did, I wouldnt trust my "awesome" carpentry skills on something like that. I know electrical, electronic, and mechanical. I guess this means my priorities have to get refocused on to getting the trailer towable and taking it to get the floor fixed.

I thought you were kinda baggin the idea of doing it yourself..

We should probably start off with some pics and what exactly kinda repair your looking at. ( can you scab in..or need the whole floor .. etc )..

Yes in a perfect world you would just scab in ( replace just the damaged wood FROM ROT FROM WATER ) just what you need and glass over it and be done. Yes in this case it needs to be Screwed and Glued down..not just glass holding it in place .. probably have to add a few cleats under side of your deck to screw.

Get some pics up and we can guide you through this.

YD.

 

[NavyTechVet]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

Sorry bout that NYV .. I somehow didnt even bother diggin any deeper into the last post you made because of



I thought you were kinda baggin the idea of doing it yourself..

We should probably start off with some pics and what exactly kinda repair your looking at. ( can you scab in..or need the whole floor .. etc )..

Yes in a perfect world you would just scab in ( replace just the damaged wood FROM ROT FROM WATER ) just what you need and glass over it and be done. Yes in this case it needs to be Screwed and Glued down..not just glass holding it in place .. probably have to add a few cleats under side of your deck to screw.

Get some pics up and we can guide you through this.

YD.

Initially, I did tuck my tail and ran... But after reading so many threads, I realized I may be able to do a passable job of it. But I want to make sure I have all of my information straight before I start. Not to mention, being on the aforementioned tight budget, I cant afford to have it done by a professional shop.

It pretty much HAS to be "scabbed" in. I dont have the facilities, time, energy, talent, knowledge, or money to pull the cap(?) off and replace the whole floor. I'll get some pix up as soon as the weather cooperates long enough to remove the tarp. The section that is noticeably soft is a few feet back from the pilot's chair mount, and firms up again about 18 inches forward of the bilge. I'll use a marker or something to denote the soft/rotten areas. There doesnt seem to be any give in the deck on the port side, but it is noticeably rotten where the gas tank access is cut. What Im thinking, is that even though there isnt any softness that I can see/tell, Im going to cut out from 12 inches forward of the bilge, all the way to about 12 inches aft of the chairs, and about 6 inches inboard of the sides (not hull). Like I mentioned earlier, the stringers and foam SHOULD be in good shape.

 

[countryboy26047]

Re: 1987 Dixie Super Skier 199

I think your thinking of an Outboard.. there is no 'pee stream' with an I/O .. not that I am aware of. The exhaust goes through the hub of the prop.

Inboard motors draw water then exhaust through ports on the hull ( look for water coming out of those ports ). You cant fire them up out of the water unless you have someone under the boat with a Plunger Style ( or box for the bigger boats ) water hookup.

Outboards motors keep them cooling through the vents on the lower shaft ( use the Muffs ) and have nothing to do with through hull fittings/pickups for water. They are independent from the boat. You look for that 'pee stream' for outboards.

Inboard/outboard drives have there cooling systems intergrated. The drive and the Motor is cooled off from 'lake water' .. it comes from your drive unit and not from a through hull pickup.

Yes I agree that you need to change out your Impeller .. change it every two years depending on the use of the boat and how its stored.

Im no engine expert..but I know a few ..

YD.

If you look at the second pic I posted with the outdrive with ear muffs attached, look just behind where the muffs are and you'll see the tell-tale stream... I'll admit, I don't know that all I\O's have the fins in the outdrive, but the ones I've looked at, along with helping my brother work on the I\O in his bayliner, have the intake fins like those in the picture.

*Edit* actually, if you look at the fourth picture from the OP, where you can see a side-view of the outdrive, you can see the cooling fins just behind the prop. Not trying to come off like a know-it-all or a prick, just making sure the OP has the correct info on it.... and Navy, I realize your no where close to the engine work, so I apologize for getting off-track on that part again.