1995 Crownline 202BR Restore

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Cadet
Joined
Sep 16, 2023
Messages
13
I recently did a transom job with a clearence issue like that. My supervisor has an extended shaft straight die grinder that helped a lot, along with a few carbide bits and a stone ball. Later, I had closed the gap even more with glass, and had to come up with something else. I taped a stir stick to a sawzall blade, and cut a piece of psa 36 grit sand paper to fit it. It was a bit slow, but worked well. Longer blades will let you put some pressure on and flex them.

As for the sidewalls, just gel would probably be best. If you use the foam, could you set up a blower on a timer somehow to dry it out? Even just a tiny box fan left in overnight would work.
The die grinder worked pretty well. Thanks for the tip.
 

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Cadet
Joined
Sep 16, 2023
Messages
13
After some summer getaway time, I'm back at it. Made my fiberglass order from US Composite and found a local source with marine plywood. It's nice to be able to by it in by the sheet as I need it and not have to store extra as I really don't have room. Others have mentioned it before but USC can ship to a transit terminal and you don't have to pay the hazmat charge on the resin. Shipping was half of what it would be if I had it delivered to my house. Well worth the 15min drive to pick it up.

Going to get to work on the transom today. Hopefully get it cut out and the glue up started.
 

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Cadet
Joined
Sep 16, 2023
Messages
13
Got the transom cut out and glued using Titebond III. Based on the keyhole cutout, everything looks good. Did a dry fit and all looks good. Going to route out the extra space for the steering linkage at the top of the keyhole next. Hoping my USC order arrives by Friday so I can start the glassing this weekend.

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