1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

[maddog238]

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

I'm back from my son's Boy Scout campout. My goal, when the rain stops, is to get back in there and continue demolition. I've decided to take the driver's seat base out.

Should I rebuild new seat bases based on the rotten ones as a template, or should i buy new seat sets from Walmart? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wise-Ski-Boat-10-Base-Lounge-White-Navy/15135493

 

[maddog238]

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

2 Questions:

1. Should I rebuild new seat bases or should i buy new seat sets from Walmart? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wise-Ski-B...-Navy/15135493

2. Which plywood would you buy from Lowes for your deck:

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Go with the Arauco. It's really nice stuff. Pretty much completely void free.

I had those same seats in my last boat and for the money I think they're a good deal. They held up well during the 5 seasons I kept the boat.

 

[maddog238]

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Go with the Arauco. It's really nice stuff. Pretty much completely void free.

I had those same seats in my last boat and for the money I think they're a good deal. They held up well during the 5 seasons I kept the boat.

Thanks for the advice. What is the best method to mount the seats?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

There's a couple ways. I doubled up the plywood thickness under where mine where mounted and just lag bolted them. I believe others who were more concerned about additional deck penetrations have epoxied wood blocks to the deck and then secured the bases to those somehow.

 

[havoc_squad]

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

Re: Do i need a drain port in the ski locker if I remove/cover the ski locker permant

There's a couple ways. I doubled up the plywood thickness under where mine where mounted and just lag bolted them. I believe others who were more concerned about additional deck penetrations have epoxied wood blocks to the deck and then secured the bases to those somehow.

If my memory serves me correct from the last boat I owned, there's two potential mounting problems with the Wise boat seats mounting options using epoxied wood blocks on the deck. I seriously doubt the method of mounting has changed much since 2004 when I bought Wise Lounge Seats.

1. Hard to use with the method Wise Boat seats provides to fasten their lounge seats to the deck.

2. You have a blocky protrusion that either is uncarpeted or hard to carpet, if you plan to do carpet.


The only good locations that I remember being able to mount to is the black cross support bar at the bottom with holes for putting fasteners straight into the deck. I thought mounting screws through the side of the base was a bad idea (would look ugly with screws or bolts sticking out with little area for strength or support.

I voted against this option, thinking it was flimsy and too easy to fail. I bought an aluminum L bar at Lowes and custom made mounting brackets to bolt my seats in with stainless steel hardware instead of unscrewing and screwing them back into the deck for removal.

Simply, I cut up the aluminum L bar into several small 1.5 inch brackets. Then I took one and leveled it with the rectangular plastic mount bracket on a table, clamped it, and drilled. Afterwards, I ran the bolt, lockwasher, and nut on it which secured it. Four mount brackets per rectangular post, which ended up two per side.

So if I wanted to take the seats and base out, I just unbolted it and the custom mount brackets stayed screwed into the deck. Yes, it was a bit hard to reach this in the seat base with the seat cushions on top of me. However, I didn't have to freak out about forgetting where the open holes were in the deck when I removed it because I had the mount brackets screwed to the deck.


If I had pictures of it, I would post them now but I don't own that boat anymore.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I know it's been a week or so since my last post. I finally have everything ripped out. I found rot in my stringers. This is a couple of pics of my stringers on the port side. Starboard side is identical..



1. Can I cut the top cap of the stringers off, dig out wood and slide and glue another 1x4 in its place?
2. Or do I need to bring everything down and glue in new ones.
3. Additionally, is there an option to leaving the stringers as is but sistering in a stringer the complete length of the old stringers?

Take in mind I have no way to take boat off of trailer for structural support?

 

[Funkiegh_g]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

1. I'd think this would be more pain than stripping them out and replacing them properly. Also you wouldn't get a bond to the existing glass.
2. Obviously the most thorough and best long term option.
3. Don't see why not but you'd need to glass over everything anyway so what you save in effort from not removing you'll pay for in preparing, cleaning and over-glassing with the existing stringers.

Have you considered CPES - http://www.rotdoctor.com/glass/GLmain.html.?

Actually I have a supplementary question - Is it necessary to replace the stringers at all if the glass is nice and thick anyway?

 

[jaybeava]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

View attachment 144212View attachment 144213View attachment 144210View attachment 144211I know it's been a week or so since my last post. I finally have everything ripped out. I found rot in my stringers. This is a couple of pics of my stringers on the port side. Starboard side is identical..



1. Can I cut the top cap of the stringers off, dig out wood and slide and glue another 1x4 in its place?
2. Or do I need to bring everything down and glue in new ones.
3. Additionally, is there an option to leaving the stringers as is but sistering in a stringer the complete length of the old stringers?

Take in mind I have no way to take boat off of trailer for structural support?

Maddog, it looks like we are both in the same boat http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=541660 no pun intended! How does your engine mount look?
I haven't gone past the ski locker yet but that bulkhead is rotted. How does the foam/decking look at the instrument panel?

-Jason

 

[riptorn]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Hi maddog238, just curious do you have any pictures of your boat of what it looks like? I must have missed it. Sounds good though.
Good thread

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Maddog, it looks like we are both in the same boat http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=541660 no pun intended! How does your engine mount look?
I haven't gone past the ski locker yet but that bulkhead is rotted. How does the foam/decking look at the instrument panel?

-Jason

I took out the deck, seat bases (carefully for template), main port-side stringer, engine port-side stringer, battery boxes, cuddy floor, 2 bulkheads (separating gas tank and under cuddy entrance), and a 2ft chunk off the starboard stringer. Though demolition is supposed to be fast it took me several days for 2 reasons:

1. Because of rain, work, and church my time is limited.
2. I kept telling myself that there was not rot in this or that area. So I tried to preserve some areas but the truth is, rot spreads.

On Saturday, after I took out the port side engine stringer, I noticed that it was butted up next to the transom. Chipping off some of the skin of the transom in that area, I noticed that it was wet. I spent the next 24hrs trying to figure out how to dry it out. I saw everything from drilling holes and syringing in acetone, to using CPES and epoxy. I have come to the conclusion that if it is wet it will spread

I have not come to grips yet to pulling the motor and replacing the transom. I am just so afraid to doing it. I am a computer guy not a wood worker.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

NEED HELP!

I just realized I made a boo boo. I poked my grinder through my hull. What do I need to do to fix it. It is about 3 inches long. There is no deck in the boat so I have access to it from inside out.

 

[jaybeava]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I have not come to grips yet to pulling the motor and replacing the transom. I am just so afraid to doing it. I am a computer guy not a wood worker.

I hear ya on that. This isn't my thing either. First boat project and minimal time to work on it! How do you plan on removing the engine? Im at the same point. I found this http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=496010. Seems like a cheap way to get the job done. Also no bulky engine hoist to store later. I'll have to get creative to find a place to store the engine. Each day after work I dig through forums for that "ah ha!" post telling me that I dont have to pull the engine. Still digging

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I accidentally ground a slit into my hull (about 3 inches long. What do I need to do to fix it?

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I am bedding in my first stringer hopefully today or tomorrow. I will be using PL to bed it into place. My question is, do I leave a quarter inch gap underneath then bed it in with PL? Or can i bed in straight to the deck with pl with no gap.

I read on another restore the following:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Boat-Repair-2123/Boat-stringer.htm

I want to do what is right the first time. I am fearful of these ‘so-called’ stress points on the hull.

Gap or no Gap...that is the question!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I am bedding in my first stringer hopefully today or tomorrow. I will be using PL to bed it into place. My question is, do I leave a quarter inch gap underneath then bed it in with PL? Or can i bed in straight to the deck with pl with no gap.

I read on another restore the following:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Boat-Repair-2123/Boat-stringer.htm

I want to do what is right the first time. I am fearful of these ‘so-called’ stress points on the hull.

Gap or no Gap...that is the question!

The first link in my signature below, has drawings and info on how to do your Stingers, Deck and Transom. As for the cut in your hull, Put some duct tape over it on the outside, then fill it with PB on the inside. Smooth with puttly knife. when it dries sand and then apply two layers of CSM and a layer of 1708 and you're good to go. On the outside you can sand and fair and use gelcoat paste to blend it. If you're painting then just sand, fill and fair and prime and paint.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

The first link in my signature below, has drawings and info on how to do your Stingers, Deck and Transom. As for the cut in your hull, Put some duct tape over it on the outside, then fill it with PB on the inside. Smooth with puttly knife. when it dries sand and then apply two layers of CSM and a layer of 1708 and you're good to go. On the outside you can sand and fair and use gelcoat paste to blend it. If you're painting then just sand, fill and fair and prime and paint.

Woodonglass, I saw where you mention arauco is great material for the deck, stringers, etc.

2 questions for you or anyone else that answers:

1. Can I use a regular 1x4 pine for a stringer?

2. Should I go 23/32 or 15/32 arauco for the deck? I guess that comes out 3/4 or in 1/2 inch plywood

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Well, got no responses from anyone regarding the stringer and deck. So.... I used 1x4 pine for the port stringer: soaked it, wrapped it in resin and CSM and glued it in this weekend. I have decided to go with 23/32 Arauco from lowes. 15/32 was too flimsy for my comfort.

After cutting out my plywood template for the deck, I noticed that starboard stringer was not level at all. The only thing I hanged out was the bulkhead when was made from the original as a template. I know yall want pics so I will try to do that during lunch which is 3 hours from now EST.

QUESTION: If the boat is sitting level, should the deck have a natural tilt allowing water to drain to the bilge? Kinda like a bathtub’s floor slope?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I guess that would depend on how your boat sits naturally in the water.

When the boat is in the water I dont like forward angled decks ..

YD.

PS. I would have said the 3/4 " ply.

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I used 1 x 8 and 1 x 10's on mine.....except I believe mine were spruce I believe. It is what I removed from factory. I used PB as I love how it cures so much faster and I can do my fillets at the same time as bedding. with the exception of where my two paint stirring sticks were there to keep deck of the hull. My stringers were longer than 8ft so I would of had to of spliced them. I know my boat I made the floor to slope towards the back by an 1in. Of course that is spread over 18ft long so you will not be able to tell it from looking at it, but the water will generally always run to the bilge area.