21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

Oops - thanks for the pm. . . its nice to know I'm not the only one making a d*mn mess of things.

Thanks for the filler info above.

And I will definately take you up on that offer for advice from time to time.

Regards,

James

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

Hi All,

Not a bad day of work on the boat! To bring everyone up to speed, the transom I seated in a few weeks ago wasn?t thick enough to install an outboard swim platform bracket. So I added another ?? piece of wood to bring the total wood thickness up to 1.75? ? with glass it will be 2.25? plus.

Lucky for me, a cold front moved through Southeastern NC last night and dropped temperatures down to the upper 50?s ? perfect fiber-glassing weather! Because the temp dropped off, I switched up and used a medium hardener this time.

As far as the process ? I just repeated the steps from earlier posts. . .
- started with a ?? sheet of PT plywood
- dried the whole sheet for 3-4 weeks in my guest bedroom with a fan on it ? even 75degrees at all times
- cut the piece needed - roughed up the side getting the cloth with a 60-grit palm sander
- cut 6oz fiberglass cloth to size
- poured resin out and dabbed it in with a 3? brush
- did the same for the interior side of the transom
- let the resin soak in for an hour
- worked in the 6oz cloth to the new piece
- mixed up some peanut butter ? spread out on the base of where the new piece would be seated
- set the new piece into place ? set ss screws as needed ? clamped off at the top
- mixed up some more peanut butter and filled in the gaps

Man ? I am getting better at mixing peanut butter ? the stuff really has a good consistency now! I feel a lot better than I did about the first couple batches, that?s for sure!

So, I am now back on track with the transom. Next I will start tabbing the transom into the hull and laying mat on the transom exterior.

Enjoy the pictures!

Regards,

James

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

More Pics. . .

 

[maxum247]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

Now that you've got the transom figured out, things should start to move along. Looks good!

 

[maxum247]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

What's the latest?

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

What's the latest?

Thanks for asking!

The new transom piece looks like it cured in just fine. I have already sanded down the inside good and will start tabbing in the interior side of the transom on Friday. I'm a few weeks behind where I would like to be, but I think I am still doing well.

Another interesting thing. . . just tonight I found an outboard for sale that I am going to look at tomorrow. Its a 1987 225 Johnson short shaft (25"). The guys says it starts right up and it has good compression in each cylinder. He only wants $650. Then again, its a 21 year-old motor.

We'll see.

James

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

Thanks for asking!

The new transom piece looks like it cured in just fine. I have already sanded down the inside good and will start tabbing in the interior side of the transom on Friday. I'm a few weeks behind where I would like to be, but I think I am still doing well.

Another interesting thing. . . just tonight I found an outboard for sale that I am going to look at tomorrow. Its a 1987 225 Johnson short shaft (25"). The guys says it starts right up and it has good compression in each cylinder. He only wants $650. Then again, its a 21 year-old motor.

We'll see.

James

hay James , man thats not a steal thats highway robbery !!! I paid more then that for my 100hp 1962 merc, even with it 21 years old that thing should go for 2 grand at the cheapest !! I seen a 100hp merc 1968 on ebay the other day go for 1400 !! I say check her out good and go for it !! John

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

hay James , man thats not a steal thats highway robbery !!! . . . even with it 21 years old that thing should go for 2 grand at the cheapest !! John

**Update**

So its a done deal! I bought a 1987 225 Johnson V6 Outboard, "TX" Series, with a 25" Short Shaft Outdrive, for $650.00. It also came with a stainless steel prop. NADA says the value is $500 or so, but, large outboards are a comodity in Southeastern NC - so I ended up paying a premium. Plus, like John said, I think used large outboards are a comodity in general - whatever, I own it now.

So, the motor started right up and ran smooth - the idle when it backed down seemed good - and the head was real clean. I didnt have a compression gauge, but the guy who sold it to me said the compression was over 100 in every clyinder.

The only problem, I currently see, with my purchase is that I dont know the first d*mn thing about an outboard.

Whats next?? Would it be worth it to have a boat mechanic come give the thing the once over?? How often should I run the thing - its going to be a while before its ready to be installed on the boat!

Pictures coming soon.

 

[maxum247]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

**Update**

So its a done deal! I bought a 1987 225 Johnson V6 Outboard, "TX" Series, with a 25" Short Shaft Outdrive, for $650.00. It also came with a stainless steel prop. NADA says the value is $500 or so, but, large outboards are a comodity in Southeastern NC - so I ended up paying a premium. Plus, like John said, I think used large outboards are a comodity in general - whatever, I own it now.

So, the motor started right up and ran smooth - the idle when it backed down seemed good - and the head was real clean. I didnt have a compression gauge, but the guy who sold it to me said the compression was over 100 in every clyinder.

The only problem, I currently see, with my purchase is that I dont know the first d*mn thing about an outboard.

Whats next?? Would it be worth it to have a boat mechanic come give the thing the once over?? How often should I run the thing - its going to be a while before its ready to be installed on the boat!

Pictures coming soon.

Invest in a good repair manual for the motor.

Check the compression.

Run the motor on muffs to keep it lubricated when you can, you'll get the feel for it.

It's recently been run so you should be ok for awhile.

 

[maxum247]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

How are things coming along with the boat?

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

*POST 1 of 3*

I hope everyone had a great weekend of work on their projects!

Here on the island in Southeastern North Carolina the weather has been just freakin? perfect! 70degrees + and sunny the 2nd weekend in November ? you simply cannot beat that!

So from the post above you all know I bought a used Johnson 225 outboard off of Craigslist. I didn?t plan on buying a motor this soon into my project, but for $650 bucks I couldn?t pass up the opportunity!

Saturday morning I picked the motor up. After a quick stop-off on the way home to rent an engine lift, I immediately got to work on an engine stand. Real simple to build ? I used a 2x12 for the face, 2x6?s for the legs, 2x4?s for the base & bracing, and (4) 3? ball bearing casters on the base. Each caster is rated for 250 pounds. If you build one, remember to set the legs back a couple degrees so that the weight of the outboard distributes to the center. If you don?t, the stand will be front-heavy and will flip over. Honestly, I could have set my legs back a little more.

By mid-morning it was time to hoist the motor off the truck. I used a 15? weaved dock line (load rating = 1200pounds) wrapped around the flywheel to hoist the outboard off my truck with the engine lift. I rented the engine lift for the day from a local equipment rental store for $45. Sorry ? I didn?t take any picks of the lifting from my truck. It was not exactly an ideal time to take pics when my 600 pound motor was dangling in the air!

Here are some pics of the stand I built. . .

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

*POST 2 of 3*

So the outboard is now sitting on a motor stand and I can play with it later. Overall, not a bad buy for the price! The heads are real clean and it ran well. I need a control box to be able to start the thing up unless someone knows of another way?

Now, on to the tabbing. . .

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

*POST 3 of 3*

Sunday I started tabbing the transom to the hull. . .

First, a little background. . . to sandwich the transom together, I used pre-packed 6oz fiberglass cloth and Epoxy resin & hardener by MAS that I bought from Boaters World. To seat the transom into the hull, and to fill the cracks afterwards, I mixed up some peanut butter using my leftover Epoxy resin, wood flour & Colidia Silica. I did this because I had never fiberglassed before in my life and I was willing to pay a premium to get the materials that day and to see how difficult it would be to work with the stuff.

Once I had finished seating the transom into the hull, I gave US Composites a call and put in an order for 10 yards of 1708 glass, and a Poly kit. USC sold me on a Poly kit because it is cheaper, and because the production of my hull is probably Poly. Delivered to my door, the glass and Poly kit was only $120 bucks! Cheap!

Back to the tabbing. . . I started by cutting 8? sheets of 1708 glass; I then cut 18? sheets to go over the 8? sheets. The area I needed to glass was already sanded, so after a quick rub down of the area with Acetone I mixed up about 32oz of the good stuff and got to work. The first thing I noticed was that Poly resin is blue and the odor is far stronger than Epoxy. Also, the hardening agent is for Poly is mere drops ? while the hardening agent for Epoxy is 2:1.

Once the Poly was mixed, I brushed into on the hull and transom for the area that I was going to tab and started working in my pre-cut sheets. I laid the first round of sheets which grabbed about 4? of hull to 4? of transom. I then laid the second round of my pre-cut sheets which extended out about 5? past the first round of sheets. I stopped there because I want to make sure this works before I go further.

My concern tonight is that I seated the transom to the hull and filled the cracks with peanut butter using an Epoxy mix, while I am tabbing using a Poly mix. The hull is suposedly Poly.

Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Regards,

James

 

[ondarvr]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

Polyester doesn't bond all that well to epoxy and it's a hard to tell from your description whether you're actually using the polyester right over the epoxy or not. Bonding the plywood in place and then just filling the cracks with epoxy will be fine, if you coated large areas with epoxy then glassed over them with polyester it won't be a great bond, but will most likely be "OK" if you cleaned and sanded the area very well before hand, but isn't good.

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

Polyester doesn't bond all that well to epoxy and it's a hard to tell from your description whether you're actually using the polyester right over the epoxy or not. Bonding the plywood in place and then just filling the cracks with epoxy will be fine, if you coated large areas with epoxy then glassed over them with polyester it won't be a great bond, but will most likely be "OK" if you cleaned and sanded the area very well before hand, but isn't good.

Perfect! And your statement is consistent with the word I got from the guys at US Composites when I placed my order.

I only used Epoxy to sandwhich the transom pieces together, and set the transom to the hull. To glass the transom to the hull, I used Poly, and the hull is Poly, so the contact of Poly to Epoxy is limited to the cracks that were between the transom and the hull.

James

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

I need a control box to be able to start the thing up unless someone knows of another way?

Hey that's a great deal on the motor $650, you robbed him real good
Also like the way you kepted going after cutting your transom off. Must others would have scraped it. Your doing a fine job putting it back together As for starting the motor, hook up the battery & muffs to it, make sure it's in neutural and jump it from the silenoid to the starter.

 

[GO OVRIT]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

How close to Harkers Island are you? I'm heading down there friday to pick up a boat. I've got a set of controls you can have if you're nearby.

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

Tonight I checked out my tabbing work from Sunday night and, overall, it looked good. There were a few pieces where an edge or two had peeled back from laying flat, but no worries. . .

To keep moving, I scruffed the top layer of glass and started round three. Cut out two large sheets for each side, and half that size for the center. Mixed up a batch of the good stuff, and started what now is the familiar process of working the glass in.

The temp is just below 50degrees tonight, so once I was done, to help the curring process I set a 500watt halogen up and put the sheet of plywood over the rear to help keep the heat in.

As usual, pics are attached.

I now have three rounds of tabbing - the first grabs about 4" of hull - the second grabs about 10" - the third grabs about 20". I only have one round of tabbing to the sides of the hull - so that is next.

I just keep thinking about all the fish I am going to be able to shoot next summer - thats what keeps me going!

Regards,

James

 

[83ProLine]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

How close to Harkers Island are you? I'm heading down there friday to pick up a boat. I've got a set of controls you can have if you're nearby.

SWEET! I will PM you my number!

 

[oops!]

Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics

proline....

the optimum ratio for resin to glass is 60 % glass and 40 percent resin......(really tough to get)

i have heard of infusion or vac bagging being done with a 70-30 ratio.

however......if you can get 50-50 you are doing really good.

the rule of thumb is saturate the glass....no more....no less.

when its colder out....and you are mixing resin.....its viscosity is a lot lower, so it takes you far more resin to saturate the glass.

one trick i used......was to pre mix the resin only....stir that stuff well.
use a mixer thingy in your drill.....get a vortex going for about 5 minits.....just hang the drill over the edge of the bucket ...turn it on and walk away.......

it also helps huge if the resin is warm.....75 deg when you add the cat....if the substraight...(the transom) is warm with the lights...and the resin is room temp...(75 deg) the resin will go a lot farther.....(2x farther) than if the resin is cold....(50 deg)

dont get the resin hot..(90 deg or over) .....when you add the cat....it will kick immead and cure in 5 mins.

that should take care of your usage problems.

as far a s a set ratio for gallon of resin to how many sq feet of glass.....yes there is ....but it depends on the thickness of glass you are using.....

hope that helps bud

cheers
oops