Racklefrack
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2017
- Messages
- 44
Yeah, I'm just using the speedo numbers for easy reference, not exact measurements. Once I solve the tach issue I'll use my GPS to get more reliable numbers. Thanks!
According to Glastron, it was the dealer who swapped out the drive to a 1.81 and a 23P prop to compensate for the altitude in Colorado where it was originally sold. Otherwise, it would have been sold with the 1.62.
The only reason this is even important is because IF the change to a 1.81 / 23P is not a normal thing, then I don't want to repeat it by installing a new 23P... I'd rather put on a prop that was more "normal" for this boat's operation at closer to sea level, like a 19P or 21P. If, however, the 1.81 / 23P IS a normal thing, then putting on a new 23P wouldn't be that bad an idea.
Ugh... I've only owned the boat a couple of weeks and I already wanna shoot myself in the head
is your prop aluminum or stainless?
You should have no issues with most 23P props. I doubt you’ll see much reduction in rpm from any of them. You make a decent amount of power. see my previous post about 4 blade props.
Thanks!
Now we’re really getting somewhere.
1. Handling at idle. Most single engine I/O boats don’t exhibit the best handling at idle. It’s the nature of the beast. The biggest issue is wandering that requires constant attention. You just learn to deal with it.
Yep, that's the easy part. Mine wanders like a drunken sailor, but it's no big deal.
2. You want more holeshot. How does it take off now? What kind of boating do you anticipate doing? Watersports? Lightweight cruising? For watersports you go down in pitch, for lightweight cruising you sacrifice some acceleration for higher cruise speeds.
I should clarify something: This entire issue isn't because I want something different, it's because I think I have the wrong prop on there. If I'm going to change it I figured we might as well get the most performance out of the new prop as I can. Basically, if we have the right prop on there then I really don't want to change anything. But if we need to replace the prop -- and we won't know until I fix the tach -- then we might as well take advantage of the opportunity and put something even better on there.
That all said, she takes off out of the hole just like you'd expect -- pops the bow up into the air, takes 2-3 seconds to plane then levels out beautifully. To get her to do all of that, i have to hammer her down nearly WOT... just going to 3/4 throttle or so and she'll take forever to get up and over the bow wave.
What I was thinking is that a 4-blade prop might give it a better hole shot for my wife, who prefers to drive a little more conservatively than I do. If that's not practical then we'll be absolutely happy with how she performs now, assuming we have the correct prop installed (still haven't fixed the tach so still don't know.)
As for how we anticipate using the boat, the vast majority of the time it will be just my wife and I... no watersports, light-ish load. So we don't need a better hole shot, BUT... if a different prop (like a 4-blade) makes it easier for my wife to drive AND makes it easier to maneuver while docking AND it only costs us 1-2 mph off the top, those are all wins for us. If none of that is true then there's no reason to change.
3. Mid range speeds. There’s really only three speeds you’ll run at 95% of the time. Idle near docks and in no wake zones. Cruise, which on a 4.3 is pretty much right at 3000 rpm. And WOT. Don’t worry about how it runs at 2300rpm as it’s unlikely you’ll spend much time there.
That makes perfect sense
Dont waste money repairing aluminum props. They’re not worth it. You can get new Quicksilver aluminum props for less than $100.
The only reason I'm repairing this one is because we're not sure yet of what pitch prop should be on the boat. If I knew for certain what the pitch should be I'd be buying it and never looking back. So I need something to run the boat on to test the pitch as soon as I resolve the tach issue... it might as well be the prop that came with the boat when I bought it. Plus, I'm pretty sure I'm going to end up buying a new and improved prop anyway no matter what, so this repaired one will make a decent spare.
I'm either wasting $65 to the repair this one or possibly wasting much more on a prop that I won't know is the right pitch until I test it, which may be too late. I need a spare prop anyway, might as well be the repaired one that's cheaper.
The only experience you should have prior to going stainless is learning the environment you’re in and knowing what obstacles are under the water.
Funny you should mention that... the reason I need to repair this prop is because the lower Colorado river was running a lot lower than it was reported to be. I looked up the dam release times and amounts and it should have been higher than it was, but instead of being 4' deep it was 2' deep and, well... the rest, as they say, is history. So I THOUGHT I knew what was under there, but clearly I need more experience, i.e. learning not to be so trusting of dam release reports