74 Starcraft Holiday resto

[SkidRowBill]

Petty Officer... does that mean that I have to complain about every little thing???

 

[SkidRowBill]

Hey... Watermann... The Admiral just ordered that I pick up some potatoes tomorrow... What should I tell her???

 

[Watermann]

Yukon Golds, you want them peeled, steamed with fresh garlic cloves and sweet cream butter

 

[SkidRowBill]

Rain... 90% humidity... thunder boomers... I think that I will wait to bring out the transom wood... I bought the titebond III ultamate wood glue... what are your experiences with this... I have read many more good than bad online... mostly from small independant furniture makers... from some of the many comments here on transom repairs I gather that the less holes the better( the old transom is held together with many screws)... I am thinking that a lite coat of the titebond as per directions to adhere the two pieces together, then clamp together using C clamps and heavey angle iron, once dried I will paint the sides and all edges with Gluvit, then install... or maybe add 4- 1,1/4 inch stainless screws placed steteigictly to make sure that the two pieces do not seperate during install... I am thinking that once the wood is installed it should stay there with the 20 bolts that are thru and thru... as of yet I have not opened the transom wood... I purchased it cut to 2- 2X8 pieces... I have not decided exactly how I want to seal the wood yet... I am waiting until I see the final thickness... I have decidded to glue a sheet of aluminum covering the exposed transom wood that is where the inside engine mounts... I will talk to the tin knocker about haveing it fixed to the splash well... On my old wood it appears that the transom wood in this area has declined the most... I am hopping that this will help the longevity of the transom as a whole... [/URL Once installed I want to use the silicon II because the silicon on the old transom did a good job keeping the transom wood dry... Please... any thoughts... Comments... boat jokes... I hope that the lightning does not hit the house again... althou its raining hard enough to put the fire out... Okay... Its back to the grind... my weekend is Tuesday afternoon and Wensday this week... I hope to get this wood done.... all my best... Just a dumb farmer from Maine... PS... to WaterMan... I told the Admiral what you said to tell her... it nearly got me the Yard Arm... she gave me three choises.. hanged from the Yard Arm... a stroll of the plank... or a week in the brigg without grogg... when I mentioned Yukon Golds she went off like a howitser... its the couch for me... this stems from the fact that we eat Maine grown Russetts here ... thanks for the advice...

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Skid, you can seal the wood with spar or epoxy. I think a lot of us use titebond III to glue the pieces together. Just dont do like I did and seal two seperate pieces then glue. Glue them first and clamp together, Cut to fit right, then seal it.

 

[SkidRowBill]

Roger That... my thoughts axactly... Althou I want to cut the two pieces first, glue and clamp them together... where am I going wrong and why... what should I do???

 

[g0nef1sshn]

Roger That... my thoughts axactly... Althou I want to cut the two pieces first, glue and clamp them together... where am I going wrong and why... what should I do???

Cut first, glue, and seal. Thats what i meant to say.

 

[will w.]

Hey BILL, Hope I didnt steer you wrong with my Gluvit comment. I only used Gluvit as I already had it for another project that got delayed. If I,m not mistaken, you have better priced epoxy options for sealing that wood than Gluvit. The gluvit I had was meant for sealing seams and rivets from the inside. I learned here on the forum and of course backed up by reading the can, that gluvit is just another epoxy that can be used on wood as well as other materials. Great forum!

 

[Grandad]

where am I going wrong and why... what should I do???

Hi Bill. We all do things differently. I don't see anything wrong. I would not depend upon simply clamping the wood together after gluing. I think the heavy angle iron is an excellent idea as a first step while the glue is still moist, but I would follow up with ss woodscrews spaced every 6" or so in all directions. Before screwing, eyeball the 2 angle irons for parallel to ensure that the assembly has no twist in it that will make life difficult later. Apply pressure to correct any twist using C clamps and blocks to pull the errant ends into alignment. I would orient the new transom such that the heads of the screws are all facing forward (inside the boat), rather than against the aluminum skin where trapped moisture could over time cause corrosion of the skin. - Grandad

 

[Grandad]

Hi Bill. We all do things differently. I don't see anything wrong. I would not depend upon simply clamping the wood together after gluing. I think the heavy angle iron is an excellent idea as a first step while the glue is still moist, but I would follow up with ss woodscrews spaced every 6" or so, starting from the middle and in all directions. Before screwing, eyeball the 2 angle irons for parallel to ensure that the assembly has no twist in it that will make life difficult later. Apply pressure to correct any twist using C clamps and blocks to pull the errant ends into alignment. I would orient the new transom such that the heads of the screws are all facing forward (inside the boat), rather than against the aluminum skin where trapped moisture could over time cause corrosion of the skin. - Grandad

Edit is giving me grief. No save button. Oops. Must have hit quote instead.

 

[SkidRowBill]

This is a post from wooden boats senior member... I'll not remark on magic solutions since I'm not familiar with your boat or her use, but I'm very familiar with Gluvit and Iluvit.

It's pretty thick and won't leak through small holes. It is truely flexable. When I was first playing systematically with epoxies in the '70's I did a number of impact and bonding tests that while not tight on replicable measurement, gave me a feel for the materials. I mixed a bunch of different epoxies into dixicups to make little castings and also spread them on wax paper to make sheats. Gluvit was the only epoxy that did not fragment when I hit a small cylinder of it with a hammer, and the sheet version could be bent and twisted quite a ways. Stuff like WEST is almost explosivly brittle. Gluvit was not as good as a bonding agent, say wood to wood, but is really interesting as a resin in a GRP application.

Gluvit is mostly a sealer. It's truely amazing at that, as it really does seem to find trouble and do magic. Goblin's covering boards and devil seam were impossible until I gave'em the Gluvit.

Actually, I will remark . . . Your application sounds a bit thick to me and you could have trouble with simply too much of the goo. I'd have poured some in a line on the top edge of a strake say near the water line and used a spreader to pool it over the edge down to the next strake top and so on, leaving a thin sealing coat on the sides and edges of the planks, and no big puddles. I am also reading that a coat of paint or undercoating will extend the life of the seal 5 fold...

 

[SkidRowBill]

Hey Will.. your application of Gluvit seems to be a superior application... I am still leaning toward the flomica but I may not have the room... the plywood face that I have is near indestructable so I am not a fan of sanding it down... I am reading that your application is a sound one, especially if the exposed area is painted or covered once dried... thank God that I have you guys to turn to, along with no real schedule for compleation... I am still wondering what horse power will send this boat along at 35MPH... 40- 50- or 60... Honda 4 stroke... as you all know the higher the horse power the higher the cost per mile...

 

[SkidRowBill]

can anyone tell me if the transom(top) cover EOM goes under the gunwale caps... mine just went to them and was plastered with silicon...

 

[Watermann]

The transom cap should go up under the end caps but it stops short of where the gunnels covered the transom.

 

[dozerII]

can anyone tell me if the transom(top) cover EOM goes under the gunwale caps... mine just went to them and was plastered with silicon...

Yes the cover should have gone under the rubrail channels, and the corner caps, at least mine did.:noidea:

 

[SkidRowBill]

Thanks Glen... I like that I will be able to seal the top of the transom wood with Gulvit and cap it off with aluminum... I will fill any void under the gunwale caps with silicon II...

 

[will w.]

can anyone tell me if the transom(top) cover EOM goes under the gunwale caps... mine just went to them and was plastered with silicon...

I'll see if this works from a mobile device.

 

[SkidRowBill]

I have found the manufacturer of starboard in S California... local a piece of white 1/2 inch 12"X27" is $85.00... at Tap it is $32.00 plus 10 for dilivery... I have a link but am not sure that I can post it within the rules... all my best... Skid Row..

 

[SkidRowBill]

Is there an end cap for the rub rails that will fit the existing two holes??? found here http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Rub-Rail-End-Cap-ZAMAK

 

[SkidRowBill]

EDIT:

Bill,
please see your PMs

Thanks
John​