81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Got it. Definitely can't hurt to go the extra. Since I don't yet know the bolt pattern of the bracket, nor how high they will be, I'll add the knees after the bracket goes on.

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]Just An Update[/h]I got several decent days on the boat last weekend, as well as the last two days. Last weekend was mostly grinding on the transom to get it ready for more FG. Man, I never thought grinding out the old stuff would be so time consuming.

The last two days were partially spent adding layers of FG to the cockpit step. I don?t know how many layers over the joint at the bottom of the step it takes to be strong enough for someone to stand on it (there is no support under the step), so I will probably go overboard. It currently has a layer of 1.5 csm and two layers of 1708 (although one was partially ground out due to air bubbles). It would really help to get this step strong enough because getting inside the boat means a step from the cockpit deck all the way to the hull. It?s a long way down and I have to basically hang from the bridge to let myself down slowly.

The other thing I worked on over the last two days was filling the holes on the bow (deck) left by removing the anchor hatch and bow railing stanchions. They have been letting in rain water and I want the boat dry before I start putting in new wood (stringers and bulkheads). I have several issues related to these holes and could use the benefit of other?s experience.

First, when filling a hole where the existing FG is, say, 1/4? or 3/8? thick, what is the best way to build up the new FG to that thickness? Should I get a layer in, then fill with PB, then final layers? I have been cutting pieces of 1708 the exact size of the hole to fill it up (takes a lot of layers), planning on tabbing in underneath and an oversize layer on top (this hole will be walked on for anchoring). I can feather in the top of this patch to look good, but I will have similar situations (like removing the windows in the sides of the hull) where I can?t tab over the outside.

The second issue related to this hole is trying to tab underneath. Working upside down, the FG falls away. I just can?t get it to stick. Anyone have any tricks for working FG upside down?

 

[zopperman]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

It can take around 5 layers to fill a hole. Make a small piece and make them get progressively bigger.. and feather it smooth. I'd use a piece of real glass or PVC on teh other side of teh hole to help you get a mold for it. then fill the hole form both sides with layers of glass and build it up.

What are you talking about with the windows? You're covering them up?

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

It can take around 5 layers to fill a hole. Make a small piece and make them get progressively bigger.. and feather it smooth. I'd use a piece of real glass or PVC on teh other side of teh hole to help you get a mold for it. then fill the hole form both sides with layers of glass and build it up.

What are you talking about with the windows? You're covering them up?

If I used 5 layers progressively bigger I see two problems: 1) A big mess on the top where it has to be cosmetic, and 2) there will be air spaces where the first layer curves up over the edged (unless I grind a massive amount of FG off the top to feather the edge). Most of the videos I have watched on patching a hole where you have acess to the back/insidem, show taping the plastic/foam on the outside, putting on a layer of gel coat first, then progressively bigger layers from the back. The problem is, on the inside, I am working upside down, in close quarters, with structure in the way that can't be ground down. Maybe my best option is to fill the hole part way with exact size layers of FG, Then grind the top a little bit to feather to allow for several layers of FG on the top. Thanks for the reply. Made me think it out loud.

As for the windows, there are 4 windows (porthole type, non-opening, 2 on each side) about 18" wide and 5" high, but somewhat oval shaped. They have a trim ring around them. I will be taking off the trim ring, pulling out the plexiglass, and filling the holes. Later, I will install one new porthole on each side of the type that open and have screens to keep the bugs out.

 

[zopperman]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Can you post up a pic?

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

If you look at post #62 on Page 3, you will se a picture of the anchor locker hole. I don't yet have any pics of the side porthole windows yet, but will try to get some tomorrow. But, if you look at my avitar, you will see the two small windows on the side of the hull. I know its small, but you get the idea.

 

[oops!]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

you have the luxury of being able to get to the back of the holes.

inside....add backing plate of waxed card board...or cardboard with wax paper over the hole. you could also use Formica but wax the surface good.

out side....grind out area 4 inches around hole feather or dish the area around the hole...clean with acetone.

.wet out 3 layers of 1708 and two layers of csm. wet them out on a wet out table...place the csm between the 1708.csm , 1708. csm. 1708 ect
place the wet glass into the hole.
glass over the hole with one 1.5 csm.
let partially cure.......you just want the heat to go out of the resin......so catch it when it is coming off the back end of the cure.
grind out any high spots,,,,,you want to partially fair the area.
wipe with acetone,
add 1 layer 1.5 larger than the last over the hole.
add one more layer larger than the last over the hole...
so you have 3 layers of csm on the out side.
let cure solid.
this should be flush or close to it with the exterior of the hull.

inside......remove cardboard.
scuff 1708 in the hole.....just scuff with the grinder....but dont get carried away.....this will take 10 seconds no more.
scuff area around the hole with grinder.
clean with acetone.
use peanut butter to fill any gaps between the hull and the 1708 ....no air in the gap.
lay a 1.5 oz csm slightly larger than the hole....
another 1708 the same size as that
another csm and 1708 one inch larger than the last layers...
add a csm and 1708 two inches larger than the last.

add one more final csm over the whole area....overlapping the last area. and let cure.

after cured.....go out side and punch the hole with your fist as hard as you can......
go to hospital to have the doctors repair your broken hand.

after your hand heals.....fair the glass on the out side.
cover with gell coat. as per standard gell coat finishing

drink beer

 

[Big Island Lifer]

[h=1]Just An Update[/h]I got several decent days on the boat last weekend, as well as the last two days. Last weekend was mostly grinding on the transom to get it ready for more FG. Man, I never thought grinding out the old stuff would be so time consuming.

The last two days were partially spent adding layers of FG to the cockpit step. I don?t know how many layers over the joint at the bottom of the step it takes to be strong enough for someone to stand on it (there is no support under the step), so I will probably go overboard. It currently has a layer of 1.5 csm and two layers of 1708 (although one was partially ground out due to air bubbles). It would really help to get this step strong enough because getting inside the boat means a step from the cockpit deck all the way to the hull. It?s a long way down and I have to basically hang from the bridge to let myself down slowly.

The other thing I worked on over the last two days was filling the holes on the bow (deck) left by removing the anchor hatch and bow railing stanchions. They have been letting in rain water and I want the boat dry before I start putting in new wood (stringers and bulkheads). I have several issues related to these holes and could use the benefit of other?s experience.

First, when filling a hole where the existing FG is, say, 1/4? or 3/8? thick, what is the best way to build up the new FG to that thickness? Should I get a layer in, then fill with PB, then final layers? I have been cutting pieces of 1708 the exact size of the hole to fill it up (takes a lot of layers), planning on tabbing in underneath and an oversize layer on top (this hole will be walked on for anchoring). I can feather in the top of this patch to look good, but I will have similar situations (like removing the windows in the sides of the hull) where I can?t tab over the outside.

The second issue related to this hole is trying to tab underneath. Working upside down, the FG falls away. I just can?t get it to stick. Anyone have any tricks for working FG upside down?

On my boat I have a second step below that first Fiberglass step going into the cabin. It is made of wood and carpeted. It gives me two steps (big ones at that) but you could make another step. Below the second step is access to the step down pump.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[zopperman]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

you have the luxury of being able to get to the back of the holes.

inside....add backing plate of waxed card board...or cardboard with wax paper over the hole. you could also use Formica but wax the surface good.

out side....grind out area 4 inches around hole feather or dish the area around the hole...clean with acetone.

.wet out 3 layers of 1708 and two layers of csm. wet them out on a wet out table...place the csm between the 1708.csm , 1708. csm. 1708 ect
place the wet glass into the hole.
glass over the hole with one 1.5 csm.
let partially cure.......you just want the heat to go out of the resin......so catch it when it is coming off the back end of the cure.
grind out any high spots,,,,,you want to partially fair the area.
wipe with acetone,
add 1 layer 1.5 larger than the last over the hole.
add one more layer larger than the last over the hole...
so you have 3 layers of csm on the out side.
let cure solid.
this should be flush or close to it with the exterior of the hull.

inside......remove cardboard.
scuff 1708 in the hole.....just scuff with the grinder....but dont get carried away.....this will take 10 seconds no more.
scuff area around the hole with grinder.
clean with acetone.
use peanut butter to fill any gaps between the hull and the 1708 ....no air in the gap.
lay a 1.5 oz csm slightly larger than the hole....
another 1708 the same size as that
another csm and 1708 one inch larger than the last layers...
add a csm and 1708 two inches larger than the last.

add one more final csm over the whole area....overlapping the last area. and let cure.

after cured.....go out side and punch the hole with your fist as hard as you can......
go to hospital to have the doctors repair your broken hand.

after your hand heals.....fair the glass on the out side.
cover with gell coat. as per standard gell coat finishing

drink beer

That's what I was trying to articulate. But much more clear above.

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

On my boat I have a second step below that first Fiberglass step going into the cabin. It is made of wood and carpeted. It gives me two steps (big ones at that) but you could make another step. Below the second step is access to the step down pump.

I do plan another step where you are talking about. So it will take someone three steps down to get into the cabin, but not big steps. I haven't yet decieed how to construct it as it will be hinged or removable. The forward bilge pump will be below it.

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

after cured.....go out side and punch the hole with your fist as hard as you can......
go to hospital to have the doctors repair your broken hand.

after your hand heals.....fair the glass on the out side.
cover with gell coat. as per standard gell coat finishing

drink beer

I like your last suggestion the best. I think I'll skip the second last one (punch test) lol.

So on the outside, I did back it from inside and have one layer of csm and four layers of 1708. I did the 2 and 2 because I remembered you didn't do more than w layers of 1708, worrying about heat. Did rough and scuff in between.

I will grind a bit on top to feather.and add the csm layers. Before your post, I would have probably have made at least one of them 1708, but that may have been too thick to match up to exterior FG.

Do you always put a layer of csm between layers of 1708, given that one side of the 1708 is csm?

Also, this is a horizontal hole. All the inside work will be upside down. Any tricks for keeping the FG from falling off?

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

BTW oops!

The 3 layers of csm on top - I've read that cloth as a top layer, while not adding much strength, gives a better finishing surface. Thoughts?

 

[zopperman]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

You can use a surfacing veil cloth too...

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Got some time on the boat today. I may have a problem with resin gone bad. The other day (2 days ago), just after I put some 1708 on the cockpit step, some of the resin coming out of the container was lumpy. When I checked the step today, it was still somewhat tacky, not hard. I used the same resin for the anchor locker hole and it was hard (however, it is exposed to direct sunlight. I threw the rest of the resin away but there was a lot of air in the 1708 on the step. Hopefully it will finish curing. I put more 1708 on the step, top and bottom.

Also, I ground down around the anchor locker hole and added some more 1708 to fill it a bit more. I cut the three pieces of csm to go over the top, but didn't lay them up because I want to PB the edges of the hole a bit to get rid of some air pockets.

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]New Water Tanks[/h]We drove up to Fort Pierce (1.5 hour drive) yesterday to pick up our 2 new water tanks. We have been going back and forth as to how much water capacity we want (a lot), what configuration we want and where to put the water tank or tanks. First we were going to put it all mid-ship, under the salon floor. Then it was all in the engine compartment.

Finally, in order to keep the weight as centered as possible and as low as possible we settled in on 2 tanks. We will have the bigger one, a 46 gallon tank, mid-ship, centered under the salon floor. The fill and overflow/vent hoses will come into this tank. This tank will feed a second 20 gallon tank, to be located low and centered in the engine compartment. The water pump will take from this tank.

We generally will anchor out for 2 days at a time, so having a lot of water is important to us. Not many 26 foot boats can carry that much water. Just another thing the conversion to OBs will do for us.

Happy Thanksgiving?

 

[zopperman]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Looking good. Nice score on the tanks and happy belated thanksgiving to you and your family

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

[h=1]Main Bulkhead ? Pieces Cut & Fit[/h]Thanks for the wishes zopperman. We did have a good Thanksgiving and hope you had the same.

So, I got some fairly good time on the boat the last few days. I discussed our plans for the main bulkhead some time back. Now we are getting around to that sub-project. If you recall we will double up ?? ply, the aft portion of which will stop at the front edge of the cockpit deck, supporting it, and the forward portion of the bulkhead will go all the way from the hull to the bridge, providing both vertical and lateral support.

With the beam of the boat being almost 10?, the inside is well over 8 feet. So, we made each portion of the bulhead from 3 pieces. Therefore, six in all. The seams of the forward portion will be at different places than the seams of the aft portion. Anyway, we got all 6 pieces cut and fit and ready for FG. That will start tomorrow.

These pictures show the 3 forward pieces standing in place, both from the outside of the salon and from the inside.

In the center (from the inside), you see the size of the new salon doorway. The old entry was 20? wide (with a sign: turn shoulders sideways). This new doorway will be 30? wide. We?ll get into the doorway design in later posts.

Also in the center, you can see the step I have been working on. So far, I haven?t let anyone step on it as it?s my first semi-structural FG work, and not knowing how strong it was, I wanted to add more FG. Mrs. Kick Back came over to view our handy work and I forgot to tell her not to use the step. Oh sh?..well OK! Whew! Its strong!

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Main Bulkhead Plans

I just realized the pictures in the last post may give the impression the back of the salon will be very flat and plain. So, I wanted to give you a heads up of the plans for those pieces of wood you saw in the pictures.

The 30? doorway will be bordered by 2? thick FG uprights to hold the two doors that will swing together when closed.

On the starboard side, much of the upper portion of the bulkhead will be cut out to make room for a smoked glass window and the lower portion will have a FG cooler/seat below the window.

On the port side, I will be making a FG stairway to replace the ladder you see in the picture. On the inside of the bulkhead I will make several cutouts. One, fairly high up will be for the electrical panel. The other will be a cutout and door for storage under the staircase.
Hope this helps you picture in your mind what I have planned.

 

[zopperman]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

Do you plan on making the 2" thick FG things out of 1708???

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: 81 Sea Ray 26 Sedan Bridge I/O to OB Conversion/Restore (Pics)

I really didn't know how to describe the 2' FG things in just a few words.

These will be approximately 4' high and come out probably 18" from the main bulkhead. I plan a wood frame with 1/4 ply on the outside, and cover the entire thing with several layers of 1708. The inside of each "thing" (need to come up with a name for them) will be inset for the plxiglass doors to fold into when open. The port "thing" will actually be integral to the staircase, but the starboard side may need a support arm at the top corner. Don't know yet.