Re: 85 Capri...frightening project boat
I understand where you are at in evaluating whether to continue. I think you could get a decent boat for 3K as Mark said without having to do a whole rebuild of floor, etc.
Once you get the new ignition parts installed you can see what shape the motor is in---either way you need to know that if you keep it or part it out.
If you decide to keep it get an electronic ignition module from Pertronix, an easy modification and no more points & condenser!
Just remembered on that water pump, there is a seal between it and the motor itself that can go bad, leads to leaks and overheat condition.
Joe
Thanks Jal. I may end up getting the electronic ignition you recommend actually. I did get the motor running today. Long story on that below for those interested--and a youtube vid of the test run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWxUMFRLtTg
You'll see that there is a leak at the water pump. Two leaks actually. One is right where you said behind the pump housing. That seal is all dried out and will need replaced.
slia67 said:
kbomb,
Maybe you have covered this already and I didn't notice, but... have you checked the transom yet for rot?
Doug
It's rotten I'm pretty sure. I did a knock knock test and she thuds at the bottom. I'm planning on replacing it. The wood on the transom is fully exposed on the inside of the boat where the outrive cutout is located. No gel goat or glass that I can tell. Based on that alone, I'm guessing it's shot
tonyg11780 said:
Hey man, something else to look at on that water pump. If you remove the impeller and the vanes dont flex back to being straight, or if they stay bent and in the shape it is in now you need to replace it. The vanes are supposed to be soft and flexible. After a while, they become hard and conform to the shape of the housing which will kill your water pressure.
Tony
The vanes are somewhat flexible, but I will replace it if I keep this project. While running the motor today it actually sucked water through pretty well. I ran a clear tube from the transom to the feed bucket and it was sucking water pretty steady. The temp did get up to about 210-220 for a few moments though.
The water pump seals are all shot though. Check out the youtube vid. She's leaking a steady stream outta the copper tube seals AND from behind where the shaft goes through the housing. Also the lower bolt for the water pump has a poor heli coil repair in the bracket. I'll get to that at some point too.
-----------------------------
For more boring details on the ignition parts and subsequent methods for getting the penta running today:
Got the new ignition parts today from Napa and Advanced Auto Parts. I bought a single spark plug wire from Napa, but ended up not using it. It was interesting because I had a plug wire break off from the connector on the spark plug end but I was able to screw the wire back into the connector housing. I didn't know that was possible before-- just tried it and it went back on. But prior to finding that out I did order a single wire from Napa which is cool. You can get them in different sizes individually. Cost $4 and something cents. That's how I'll replace all the wires. cheaper and more custom.
So I only installed new points and a rotor because they didn't have the condenser or cap. I cleaned off the contact points inside the cap and stuck'er back on.
I cleaned out the float reservoir in the carb because it was full of old gas and all gross in the bottom.
Once I got the distributor back in the right place (was in the wrong position for a few tries), she fired right up! Vrooom, vrooom!
Also, once that was all done, I decided to do another compression test all the way accross without first squirting in too much oil like I did last time. I'm happy about the results:
Cylinder #1 - 160
Cylinder #2 - 162
Cylinder #3 - 160
Clyinder #4 - 160
It looks like a got a decent motor here. It did have a little misfire though. I'll have to track that down. Could be the plug wires since they are hard as a rock and really old. Or the cap, or the timing. I didn't even use a feeler gauge for the points, just eyeballed it and once it was running just turned the distributor here and there till it sounded good. Not too scientific. I'll have to prolly get a strobe.