banshee transom and likely stringers

[Woodonglass]

You might want to re-visit my link on Stringers. The use of CSM is no longer a pre-requisite. The 1708 has CSM on it and is now acceptable to be used alone without the additional layer of CSM. 2 Layers of 1708 to tab in the Stringers should be more than adequate. I would recommend tearing some strips of CSM to cap the stringers for waterproofing.

 

[banshee owner]

so if i do all the edges of the stringers then use 1708 and tab them in that will strong enough and waterproof as well. i have a fair bit of csm left over which i can use if there would be any added benefit. but if its just a waste of material i would rather just sell it.

Thanks again for your feed back

 

[banshee owner]

so if i do all the edges of the stringers then use 1708 and tab them in that will strong enough and waterproof as well. i have a fair bit of csm left over which i can use if there would be any added benefit. but if its just a waste of material i would rather just sell it.

Thanks again for your feed back

 

[banshee owner]

ARRGGG sorry about the dbl post again

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, 2 Layers of the 1708 as shown in the New updated Link should be more than adequate and a LOT better than what the original stringers were. It will be plenty strong and more than adequate water resistant. Use some CSM to Cap the stringers and Call it Good!!!

 

[banshee owner]

HAHA WOG your worse than a book company making 10 different revisions of the same book lmao

you done changed it again i was still going off the previous revison thats why i got confused i didn't notice the big colorful REVISE at the top

However i guess whatever way i end up doing it its like you said it'll be better than factory.

so i have totally covered the transom and deck with resin and one layer of csm. i can go ahead and pb them in and tab with 1708 and shouldn't be an issue right.

in your opinion would you tab the deck in put a layer of csm then a layer of 1708. I didnt get any 6 oz cloth just 1708. right now i think a layer of 1708( i got the 1708 with csm attached ) would look better than a layer csm just because of finish(i have yet to decide how im finishing the deck weather paint of some sort or carpet of some sort

Stringers have only been resined if i put csm over the edges that will guarantee waterproof then they will be ready to bed and tab with 1708 . being that i have quite a bit of resin and csm AND 1708 i might just cover the stringers with csm just because i have the material. then carry on with the 1708.

im afraid im going to have so much left over :facepalm:

 

[GT1000000]

im afraid im going to have so much left over :facepalm:

Awww don't worry about having some stuff left over...you will probably need it when the next project rolls in...:lol:

Hey and like Woody has mentioned...as long as you keep doing the awesome job you are doing, it not only will be better than original, it is going to solid as a battleship!

Oh and on a side note as to waterproofing the wood, especially the edges, wrapping CSM is one way, but another way that seems to work and is a little easier to do is giving the edges a coating of fiber reinforced PB...

 

[Woodonglass]

You can 1708 the deck but... It's texture will bleed thru Gelcoat or paint. That can be a good thing if you want a bit of texture for your deck. If you carpet, it won't matter. Left overs can always be listed on CL and sold.

 

[banshee owner]

im still undecided about how im going to finish the deck if i paint it im fine with a texture look and if carpet then like you said it wont matter. i even thought because of money or lack of i might even leave the deck with the 1708 exposed but it would just look unfinished. i may just paint it white. I went out on my uncles boat this weekend and came to terms i want my back now lol

 

[banshee owner]

HEY GUYS just wanted to check in here and let you all know that i officially have the transom Installed permanently and she solid like rock lol and the lid fits perfectly.

I also have the the stringers all installed tabbed and solid as well. The other day 2/3 of the deck also got installed and filleted and awaiting tabbing. I'm getting close what a feeling to have stringers transom and deck installed and she looks goooooood.

I have Pics that i will post i just dont have time right now.

Hope all is well with iboats family

 

[banshee owner]

 

[banshee owner]

finally figured out photobucket

heres a pic of the progress so far ill add more pics in a bit but shes all coming together

 

[banshee owner]

http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/b...140731_103423_zpsce9bdcde.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4

http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/b...140801_161728_zpsbd898283.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/b...140801_161728_zpsbd898283.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

A few more pics as promised things are staring to come together

 

[banshee owner]

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w404/bansheeowner/IMG_20140731_103452_zps444f3609.jpg

 

[banshee owner]

well i had photo bucket figured out lol

 

[banshee owner]

maybe this one works lol

 

[banshee owner]

ok got it now

 

[bigdirty]

She's lookin good man! :thumb: Defiantly better/stronger looking than original.. And I wouldn't worry about having leftover materials.. :lol: I had the opposite problem, and had to go back to my guy for more half way through my project.. :facepalm:

 

[banshee owner]

OK guys another question and this is only because there's several different ways to do it and i want the best.

THRU HOLES in transom should I drill em larger and fill will with thickened resin and re drill then use sealer

Should i just drill the size i need resin inside of hole then use a sealer like but not limited to 4200 or 5200

I kinda like the thickened resin idea because i just sounds like alot less head ache and worry about water getting to the wood.

There is no way i am gonna go thru this rebuild after the time and money spent and screw up the holes in the transom only to have to rot out in a few years

 

[GT1000000]

Personally I like the bigger hole fill with PB then redrill to correct smaller size with one BIG caveat...
If it is a load bearing hole, such as a stern eye or motor mount bolt hole, you really should back it up with a load plate of at least twice the size of the largest hole you first drilled...similar to what I did with my stern eyes...check out posts number 487 and 529 in my thread...