Blue Fin Spectrum complete restoration

Blue Fin Spectrum complete restoration

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TruckDrivingFool

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For attaching flooring plain Jane (open end) pop rivets will work fine. Aluminum shank and mandrel. Large head (as JB said)

For sizing the important part to look at is the grip range

As for what gun - If you only have a small number to ever do and have good grip strength a cheap squeeze type gun will do ya. More work but cheap and can change the nose piece to work with varying rivet sizes. If grip strength is a problem or for larger rivets there's the bolt cutter style. <----- never owned or used so no pro/con from me other than bulk may make awkward to use. If you have lots of rivets to do and have a compressor these are the cat's meow. More money but so easy to use.

Having used both the squeeze gun type and the pneumatic type IMHO if you plan on doing more than 100 rivets in your life the pneumatic are worth every penny and get my recommendation.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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So I just bought this Moeller 12 gal. below deck fuel tank..
I have a few questions..
1. I have a vent hose from the tank to the fill cap. Then I was wondering if I dnt need 1 more coming out of the enclosure for the fumes?
2. Can I set the tank right on the floor or should it be on something else to keep from water corrosion?
3. Any advice on how to set this up...
 

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TruckDrivingFool

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Only working from what I've seen in deconstruction pics most factory in floor tanks are entombed in foam with no ventilation. It is however critical to ensure you have the entire system sealed with a pressure test as outlined in the installation instructions from Moeller.

Using the mounting kit Moeller lists I believe it's alright for the plastic tanks to sit right on the plywood floor. In my mind anyway - If you're using the strap type kit some type of rubber isolation under the tank to avoid abrasion.

I'm hoping you get better answers on this subject as I have the same questions since I want to go to a tank under the closed bow of my Jet.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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Yea, well I've read a few times that you don't wanna fill it up w foam cause of the expansion, and you don't want the tank touching anything that can hold water. Now all of those instructions came from an aluminum or steel gas tank, so I don't know if it's any different for a Moeller?
 

jbcurt00

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Follow the recommended installation instructions from the tank's maker. If its a Moeller, TDFs posted PDF lists install instructions: NO FOAM! 2-3% expansion can be expected.

Use the mount kit straps TDF linked, if its a Moeller
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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Ok well I got this fuel cap for the tank, now the vent behind the cap, does that go down to the vent in the tank or what?
 

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jbcurt00

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No, the vent connection on the tank is to allow air in as you feed gas to the motor, and allow expansion/contraction of the gas in the tank and act as an overflow.

The one in the fill cap ia to allow air in/out of the tanks fill hose as you fill the tank, sort of like a bar's liquor pour spout.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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With metal tanks it's true you don't want them sitting in water due to corrosion issues. With the plastic tanks your only concern is having it mounted so it's not moving around and possibly getting abraded. (rubbed through)

They list that as a combination vent/fill so I'd say it gets both hoses from the tank. I think a phone call to Perko, Moeller, or both would get you the best(safest) answers here.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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Yea I guess that would be a good idea!! I was thinking of installing the vent in the tank to the vent in the cap. Then make a hole in the tank compartment & install a hose from there to outside the hull in case of any fumes gathering outside the tank, if that makes any sense?
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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Ok so to anyone that is interested....
I emailed Moeller today about this and they sad that a combination vent and deck fill cap means I can just run the fill hose and the vent hose from the cap to the tank..
no other ventilation is required
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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Ok fellas I finally got most of my stuff to continue with the boat.. these pics show the rod storage I made for up to 8' rods....the door is the 1st hole & the second hole will be covered momentarily
 

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TruckDrivingFool

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Looks good but you may want to think of building a partition like this



for your enclosed area to avoid a tangled mess of fishing poles. Seems most homemade versions of the above use golf bag tubes.

Yes you could also just use rod sleeves/socks but I think the tubes would be cheaper to do and less likely to get lost overboard. I've seen pros and cons for both systems.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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Ah shoot!!! That's a great idea, but now I have the deck attached:(
At the moment I'm trying to figure out rod storage above deck for my extra poles and the over 8' trolling rods
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Aww well the rod socks work too and there's some good DIY out there for them so you can possibly get them cheaper.
 

xmxaxrxtxyx

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No Title

Well here are some more pics of my progress.... waiting on the pull out drawer being made for the ice chest
 

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