Bow hatches

Celtichawk

Chief Petty Officer
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May 6, 2012
Messages
564
I have to replace my bow hatches on my 1976 Searay SRV-195. Wood rotten so what will be the best approach? I can remove the old ones and use for templates and cut out new wood. What type of wood should be recommended? What type of sealant/resin should I apply on it? Any fiberglass needed? Or just a mixture of epoxy resin? Since I don't think there will be a way to upgrade and install plastic covers like on newer boats. That being said I will need to rebuild them using original wood. Just wasn't sure the grade and thickness needed.

I will snap some photos today of original. The one more forward has a lock latch on it to access a bow storage area where right now the anchor resides. Then the other is a small hatch to open that leads you on the bow thru-windshield area. Both in rough shape and need replaced badly.
 

Celtichawk

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564
Re: Bow hatches

No takers!!!!! Well I guess I will just tackle this on my own slowly but surely! Measured the ply original that is its either 3/4" thick or 1" which means they epoxy two 1/2 sheets together I think idk...... In any case my biggest concern is once I get the wood cut out what do I treat it with so no rot or at least withstand water damage for quite sometime. Should I cover it after treated with aluminum or anything to aid with the protection or fiberglass it then paint it?
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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5,713
Re: Bow hatches

Pictures of the originals would give potential helpers a better idea of what you're facing... it's sometimes hard to imagine the problem from just a text-based description, even when that description is very good...

I'd be amazed if other users haven't dealt with this.

Jim
 

britisher

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Feb 23, 2012
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369
Re: Bow hatches

Hi CelticHawk,
I agree with Jim. The one thing that stirs up input better than anything else are pictures. They speak a thousand words! It is so much easier to visualize and then offer suggestions. Unless folks have a 1976 SRV-195, they won't have a clue what you are talking about.
That said, without seeing your pics, I would have thought you could source fiberglass replacement hatches on the internet? I have an 89 SR 180BR and I will often just google that or the same on Ebay. Especially on Ebay if you search for Sea Ray parts, you'll likely find some nice Sea Ray FG parts that will never rot.
 

Celtichawk

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May 6, 2012
Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

Your all right pictures soon to follow.....I just didn't get a response so decided to revive thread and bring more attention. So pictures will be posted in a hour or so. Thanks for your help. Btw I have searched Internet for replacement hatches that don't rot and find nothing. Easier maybe to rebuild with wood I think.

Little more cost effective then too perhaps.
 

Celtichawk

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May 6, 2012
Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

Okay everyone sorry for late response!!!! I took boat out with a couple friends and we had a blast so now here are your photos.....


photo(23).JPGphoto(22).JPGphoto(21).JPGphoto(20).JPG

Hope with these it will shed some light to what I was referring to and we could brain storm some ideas.
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Re: Bow hatches

You could just cut some ply about the size you need, then lay a thin layer of galss over it all, fair it smooth, and paint or gel over it?. Then just put the piano hinge back on, and clean/oil the teak rail flanking the lids.

I cant see how they seal to the cap tho..
 
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Celtichawk

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May 6, 2012
Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

There is channels grooved out on the side you don't see. Try to take photos of those tomorrow but with that being said I will be to buy a router and groove the new wood. As for a seal it seemed like a patch of material like velevet inside those grooves that rests on the metal framework of openings of the hatches attached to the cap.
 

britisher

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Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
369
Re: Bow hatches

Looks like they are replacements for something that went before. You could try and find the sales brochure for that boat and any pics would show you what should be there.
Yes you could replace with fresh ply, sealed with resin and glassed over and that would likely be a relatively inexpensive fix. You would not have a water tight seal though. The only thing I could think of there would be to router a groove allway round the underside and install some rubber window sealant strip in the groove.
Alternatively you could try and hunt out some fiber glass hatch covers. I did a small amount of googling and came across these folks:
Specialist Boat Company
Massmarine
best-deal (search on fiberglass hatch covers)
searay-parts. com
outlandhatchcovers. com

Hope this helps
 

jigngrub

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Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Bow hatches

Those pics make me wonder what else is rotten on the boat. Maybe deck, transom, and stringers... maybe not. It's quite evident your boat has seen considerable exposure to the elements.

An easy fix would be 3/4" MDO plywood with 4 coats of epoxy and then painted or carpeted, Probably outlast the rest of the boat.
 

Celtichawk

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May 6, 2012
Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

Rest of boat is solid sorry but already did my core sampling!!!!
 

Celtichawk

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

Looks like they are replacements for something that went before. You could try and find the sales brochure for that boat and any pics would show you what should be there.
Yes you could replace with fresh ply, sealed with resin and glassed over and that would likely be a relatively inexpensive fix. You would not have a water tight seal though. The only thing I could think of there would be to router a groove allway round the underside and install some rubber window sealant strip in the groove.
Alternatively you could try and hunt out some fiber glass hatch covers. I did a small amount of googling and came across these folks:
Specialist Boat Company
Massmarine
best-deal (search on fiberglass hatch covers)
searay-parts. com
outlandhatchcovers. com

Hope this helps

Grooves you speak of with router is exactly how these were done to allow that seal was trying to explain that but you did it better!
 

jigngrub

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Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Bow hatches

Rest of boat is solid sorry but already did my core sampling!!!!

Oh yeah, I can tell by the rotten hatches, weathered teak, and wavy gravy carpeting that your boat is in dandy-fine condition and has been well taken care of.:rolleyes:
 

Celtichawk

Chief Petty Officer
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May 6, 2012
Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

Oh yeah, I can tell by the rotten hatches, weathered teak, and wavy gravy carpeting that your boat is in dandy-fine condition and has been well taken care of.:rolleyes:

I don't doubt it has its flaws ones I have already discovered. What I know is no soft spots, drilled transom no wet shavings and also Into stringers with no water or wet shavings. Maybe and it is very likely that the bow area I couldn't get to is got rot/wet stringers idk. Boat runs at 42 mph and gets out of hole very fast!

I don't know about you but you jealous that someone found a good boat??? Okay okay it needs work and carpet is going bye bye anyhow with non-skid. Weathered mainly due to poor maint and year of boat. Been all costal California boat and owner said he only took it in sea water twice. That's probably the best truth since it has no corrosion from salt water.
 

Celtichawk

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Messages
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Re: Bow hatches

Ah I'm no professional here so anything is possible but for now with no signs of it until I decide to either sell it and move on to another but larger boat I will run it to the ground and maintain all that I can within my budget!
 

Celtichawk

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Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

Just trying to revive my thread for a few minutes, so the bow hatches, I will replace them with 3/4 plywood, then resin for a sealant, but when I apply the glass what type of glass do I use and how do I get it to stick to the resin? Then I will gelcoat/paint it.
 
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britisher

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Feb 23, 2012
Messages
369
Re: Bow hatches

When I resto'd my own boat it was mainly stringers and deck I replaced. In that instance I used 1708, which is a woven structural fiber glass and CS (Chopped Strand Mat) that is more for wrapping. CSM does not really provide a smooth finish. I was watching an episode of ShipShape TV the other day and they were fiberglassing some old boat they has as a project and they were covering and strengthening a seat structure. Whilst they used 1708 to re-attached it to the hull, they used what they called surfboard mat as it was finer and far smoother than CSM. That could be what you need. There is likely someone on here more knowledgeable than me on this surfboard mat. When you come to resin the plywood, you need to decide whether you will use epoxy resin or polyester resin. Most on here use poly Resin as it's cheaper. Basically what you would do is cut your plywood to shape and make sure all your edges are smooth and have a slight curve to them (no right angles). You then mix your resin with the hardener (you get instructions on the mix). Once mixed you have a given time limit to apply the resin before it goes hard. You would need initially to seal the surface of the wood on all sides and edges with the first coat. When it's dry, you can apply your second coat to one side and the edges and lay down the fiberglass mat. You smooth and bed the mat down into the resin by using either a roller or a chip brush (I never bothered with the roller, just used chip brushes). You can add more resin to the surface to make the seal more effective. The overlapping mat is then wrapped round to the opposite side after the first side has dried. Side 2 is a repeat of Side 1, but you need to do the edges, then wrap the mat round to side 2 and wet it down onto the surface. You can also lay down the mat on the side 2 (cut it smaller) and lay it down on the surface and over the edges of the wrapped mat. Leave to dry and then you can smooth it off with a sander. Gelcoat is the same process as mixing resin, except the resin is the gel coat and you add hardener. You can apply with a roller or brush. Rollers tend to give a smoother finish. The first gelcoat is unwaxed and dries tacky. The 2nd and final gelcoat yu add the wax that comes with it and that dries tack free.
There is another option and that is to use Starboard. This is a plastic composite that doesn't rot, is UV proof. Cuts and sands easily and can be drilled, etc. Downside it is more expensive than plywood BUT before you rile it out add up how much it will cost to buy the plywood, buy the resin and the mat and the gelcoat and the brushes and/or rollers, then compare that total to buying a piece of starboard which all you do is cut to size, screw on the hinge, add the rubber seal and you're done. By the way, you could buy rubber seal from HD or Lowe's that is self adhesive, so no cutting out channels on the underside.
 

Celtichawk

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
564
Re: Bow hatches

When I resto'd my own boat it was mainly stringers and deck I replaced. In that instance I used 1708, which is a woven structural fiber glass and CS (Chopped Strand Mat) that is more for wrapping. CSM does not really provide a smooth finish. I was watching an episode of ShipShape TV the other day and they were fiberglassing some old boat they has as a project and they were covering and strengthening a seat structure. Whilst they used 1708 to re-attached it to the hull, they used what they called surfboard mat as it was finer and far smoother than CSM. That could be what you need. There is likely someone on here more knowledgeable than me on this surfboard mat. When you come to resin the plywood, you need to decide whether you will use epoxy resin or polyester resin. Most on here use poly Resin as it's cheaper. Basically what you would do is cut your plywood to shape and make sure all your edges are smooth and have a slight curve to them (no right angles). You then mix your resin with the hardener (you get instructions on the mix). Once mixed you have a given time limit to apply the resin before it goes hard. You would need initially to seal the surface of the wood on all sides and edges with the first coat. When it's dry, you can apply your second coat to one side and the edges and lay down the fiberglass mat. You smooth and bed the mat down into the resin by using either a roller or a chip brush (I never bothered with the roller, just used chip brushes). You can add more resin to the surface to make the seal more effective. The overlapping mat is then wrapped round to the opposite side after the first side has dried. Side 2 is a repeat of Side 1, but you need to do the edges, then wrap the mat round to side 2 and wet it down onto the surface. You can also lay down the mat on the side 2 (cut it smaller) and lay it down on the surface and over the edges of the wrapped mat. Leave to dry and then you can smooth it off with a sander. Gelcoat is the same process as mixing resin, except the resin is the gel coat and you add hardener. You can apply with a roller or brush. Rollers tend to give a smoother finish. The first gelcoat is unwaxed and dries tacky. The 2nd and final gelcoat yu add the wax that comes with it and that dries tack free.
There is another option and that is to use Starboard. This is a plastic composite that doesn't rot, is UV proof. Cuts and sands easily and can be drilled, etc. Downside it is more expensive than plywood BUT before you rile it out add up how much it will cost to buy the plywood, buy the resin and the mat and the gelcoat and the brushes and/or rollers, then compare that total to buying a piece of starboard which all you do is cut to size, screw on the hinge, add the rubber seal and you're done. By the way, you could buy rubber seal from HD or Lowe's that is self adhesive, so no cutting out channels on the underside.


Hey thanks for that informative write up Britisher. Sure will come in handy now that I have a general census. I wasn't sure if the same techniques would be used for a bow hatch as you would stringers or deck on a boat. Suppose it would be the same as a deck but maybe not so much like a stringer because your not PB the edges to adhere to the fiberglass hull. (hence the gaps left between hull and stringers).

I will compare costs the hatches I need are not that large so I can imagine it may not be all that much for supplies and it very well could be cheaper to use this "you call starboard',......will check into that. Thanks again.
 
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