can of worms?

[jrttoday]

^^^ been there.... done that. Never recovered!! lol The cleaning crew was instructed to only clear an area I could work, the CAMERA CREW has a standing order "close up pictures only!!!" :lol:
I get "off topic" enough in comments to not need crap stuffed in the corners to become a part of this thread :facepalm: lol. Have a great many other things going on that DO NOT NEED TO BE MOVED; I'll forget where they are!! lol

But about this welding.... I really need a more powerful MIG; the replacement I got wasn't as strong as the one taken back - then got another one SMH. And it didn't produce quite a much voltage either, at first. Welded on scrap for a few and it seemed to pick up a few volts hmmmmmmmm. Wasn't about connections etc, at least not external.

Because this ties into what nonsense some may think on the way this is being done is being done - The company I worked for seemed to drag their feet when I was released for my heart condition; causing financial difficulty - not going to explain what that's about.

Anyway..... am currently negotiating on a Miller 252, just out of reach but negotiations to resume next week lmbo. Could rent it but credit's a wreck; could buy it outright, but only need it for this "one" job and not going to spend thousands only to be stuck with the hassle of selling. BUT!! might have to.

I'm preheating with propane and that helps significantly. I've done some destructive testing of these welds and they're free of porosity, OK penetration but not great, and a 1/4" fillet weld more than holds my body weight (165). Would have to look, but think it's 5356 alloy - often referred to as Marine Grade.

The "might have to" involves a few things - overall strength comes first, but in looking at the CMC, the entire package back there is basically held by only 2!!!! 3/4" SS bolts!!!!! Also it seems, every outboard in existence is using cast aluminum back there - it might be molded?
This Lincoln IS a good box, but I've probably exceeded its capability welding aluminum this thick. Plus, am going through a LOT of tips simply because it wasn't designed to handle that much heat. More gas pressure would allow me to pull back some but might lose some penetration?

All in all, it WILL be stronger than it needs to be when done or an expensive piece of scrap lol

 

[jrttoday]

either my negotiating skills aren't up to snuff or that's what you get when dealing with someone holding all the cards!!
A Miller/Lincoln dealer, welding etc supplier, with a full fledged welding school, and a bit more. Nah, checked around and it was a fair price; especially since they will stand behind it.

It's a rental machine five years old and it wasn't for sale until I asked; and they did throw in the flowmeter - THANKS!!!

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0001_zpsppvygekr.jpg.html]

the chart inside shows 29.5 volts for some(?) welding application; am figuring probably a max of 30 but should never reach or need that much voltage.
There's no plug on it because no one ever returns them - doesn't matter, plan to hardwire it anyway. Which means, I might as well re-do my garage some.[/URL]
It's become a pain in the ___________!! to do anything lol And it will be Friday before a new liner comes in - was the one thing they were out of for this model - will be burning .045 wire, at least I "think" I will.....:lol:

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Nice machine. I really like the Millermatic models.

 

[jrttoday]

shifting gears, part of the process.... at least I'm not grinding 'em!! It's been a couple years since welded aluminum and feel like I'm getting more of an education now that I'm having do it ALL by myself. Sooo many different alloys and all requiring different techniques; especially with Aluminum MIG, am certain TIG would have just as many considerations.

We called it 045 but it's really 3/64" wire (.047"). Whatever!! that's what's needed and that's what I got. Guess my negotiatin' skills were working or the guy was just being nice lol. Traded 8lb spool of 035 for 16lb spool of 3/64 dead even. And this is 5183 alloy, a bit stronger than 5356.
And more correctly, this box does top out at 29.5V and 700 wire feed; which is plenty on both.

And welding with 3/64.... it's almost like stick welding :lol::lol::lol:

Because writing can be so dry, I'll throw in a picture lol



Pictures of work have to wait a few days; oh well, this is becoming just like the last job I had - hurry up and wait, multiple trips to the tool room, getting back to the job at hand thinking everything's set to go and something doesn't work, more trips, chasing down people, more delays, etc etc etc...... OH GOD!!! I need a vacation!! :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

while I'm killing time, here's an old school tip unless you like throwing away rocks. Aluminum clogs 'em up and quick!! I'm usually cleaning them while they're still HOT!! Makes no difference what kind of grinder or switch it has, I unplug it first. Lay it on a bench and hold the rock with gloved hand - duh!!!
Take any "old" Sawzall blade and drag it flat back to me.
For the edges of the rock, I use dikes with one jaw over and drag the other back or twist.

This rock is cold and have used it primarily in everything done so far; which may not look like much, but it has been - shaping strips and cutting bevels

http://



Rocks are 2 to 6$ depending on where/how many you buy; this isn't very tedious and takes little time.

PS: this particular rock had been cleaned somewhat while it was still hot the last time I used it; which is why it isn't so bad

 

[jrttoday]

keep forgetting about deleting pics on bucket!! hahaha
Considering everything's being cut by hand (Sawzall and grinder), this is about as good as I'll make this fit.

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0004_zpsggnqgoln.jpg.html]

Bottom gets cut back to good metal, didn't bother to open both plates on back side.

I have two butt welds just like that one to make - (3) 9/16" x 5" x 13" plates to make one 15x13; and that'll be trimmed down in places. The square stock will be used as strongbacks (have two sets of) as well as two pieces of rectangular tubing. Just haven't decided where; may tack it up tomorrow? but the USCG declared my garage as "coastal waters" today and NOAA is to post tidal charts for it forthwith!!

It's all good, still waiting on liner.... Looks like a new 045 liner in it, whatever..... I'm pushing 035 wire with 045 knurled rollers right now!!! I'll tack but not weld - have enough fitting etc anyway[/URL]

 

[jrttoday]

Moderator or anybody, how do you fix that? That being Photobucket bypass? My pics have too many bytes; guess I could compress 'em but what a pain.... and they lose a lot, like they were anything before!! :lol:
Is there another option? lol

 

[jrttoday]

OK, trying this route... just as well, everything leading up to this is in the past and I'm not looking back

just sitting on top of strongbacks (that have to be welded first). And strongbacks sitting on top of rectangular tubing will be on top of plate - it all gets welded to keep plates from moving while welding butts. That's what I was saying though, considering it's all cut by hand.....
More pics later, easier to explain.... but did have this other....

 

[jrttoday]

not even Photobucket could fix these welds wasn't trying to make it pretty, guess I succeeded :lol: Wouldn't even donate a high dollar toothbrush to clean it up :facepalm:



damn the torpedoes, went straight to welding without playing with it first. Might should have? will play some before welding those two butts. Things forgotten - mixed gas runs cooler than straight Argon. Am finding 25.2 to 26Volts is all I'm needing here.
Wire speed is a different story altogether!!! With this big wire, I cannot effectively slow it down as would be normal with a push/pull system. I have the correct rollers for this wire and seems to help some, but also finding 550 ws runs best for this; which means you HAVE to be moving fast!!!! ---- and paying attention!! cos wire feed is NOT constant!! Causes subtle changes in the puddle; which is how I know.

When I get to playing with it, might be able to tighten rollers some more - hope so. With push/pull, gun rollers should be tight enough to make 035 wire ball up in gloved hand and on the threshold of stalling; and wire should come out making a long arch without twisting. Since I'm pushing only, it's set to push on my hand just a little before slipping.

But I haven't played with it yet,; sometimes, you need to work something some to find out what it needs.
If I had a decent table, would have clamped that down because it has to be cut back loose.

 

[jrttoday]

welding tip - soak your wire in 50/50 Acetone/ATF for max penetration nah, not much beats 3/64 wire for max penetration with ally MIG. Wire speed is where you get most of your penetration. This was only a very few passes with a 1/4" rock.




both ends will be cut off/trimmed maybe 1/2"+ or - and the sides probably will be tapered??? (wait and see).
Must have gone Hog Wild!! when first tacked the other day :facepalm: thinking I just wanted to burn wire!!!!!! :lol:
And try not be critical of my tacks!! lol

Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be cutting that back off; glad I had it as it was because it's still true. I'll have to slot this plate for the arms to be back welded.

******** MY CONCERN is putting too LOTS of heat repeatedly in such a small area. Probably spot it to death :facepalm: :lol: A friend of mine (general foreman) says he could take it to work and TIG this whole job on his lunch - he hasn't seen it, don't think he understood how labor intensive this little job is. Besides, I'm having fun!!

Making ONE approximately 7" pass(1/2 of each butt) from end to center and opposite sides; in 20ish minutes it was still hot !, but OK to touch. That fancy jig prolly helped to dissipate....

Might take a few days off cos my garage isn't air conditioned!!!

PS: tightened wire tensioner until this 3/64 wire is just starting to flatten out - I mean VERY slightly flatten, more like it's just marked. When it's flattened out, that's when you really start having problems with backlash etc. And it doesn't weld like it should either; but that's something you might not even notice? Depends on how close attention you're paying.

Welds a little better, but am still running 25.2V and 513WS - not all machines are the same and definitely WS indicators are notoriously wrong or vary. Depending upon what I'm welding (w/aluminum), I like my wire to dig into the base metal a little - popping a little. If it's just spraying, you might as well try hold it together with paint.

 

[Pcolafisher]

I'm impressed, that looks like great penetration with the weld. What was the gas mixture you were using?
Cheers

 

[jrttoday]

What was the gas mixture you were using?
Cheers

straight Argon for this; mixed gas of Argon/Helium 75/25 was used at "work" because it runs cooler and less smoke (cleaner appearance etc), but primarily used on all major joints (butts). This was my first time "ever" using 3/64 for the root pass; in a production environment, you're not going to find that good a fit on any butt with any length to it - that's practically a fact. And I "guessed" at all of it from what I've seen or welded.

With an exhaust fan mounted at 8' and another blowing up towards the attic, the air stays stirred; no real breeze, but did bump gas pressure to 30cfh. Am liking that this Miller gives a fraction of delay before pushing wire.

Penetration is helped by maintaining wire angle of 15 degrees (or slightly more depending) from perpendicular and away from the direction of travel; needs to be pushed and not pulled. Watch your puddle and listen.

Coulda shoulda not gonna, it would have been a cleaner cut with a "suicide wheel". At $67 for a one time use, plus having to buy a Metabo to use it, nah..
Metabo grinders have a clutch and turn slower rpms; and are still dangerous!!! Not skeered, just not going to use one on my grinder.

HIGHLY SIGNIFICANT!! The thing about using a rock on aluminum is that trash gets imbedded in the material; not so much with a Tigerpaw, but probably some still depending upon how it's used? I go back with a burr bit made for aluminum; they're half the price of a "suicide wheel", more versatile, can use them in a drill if air is not available, and stop/starts need to be cut back out anyway - can use 'em on fiberglass too, coarse flukes.

ps/edit: let me add.... didn't mean to offend anyone; that no-fitting crap etc usually starts with the customer, or for sure at the top, with complaints about time and materials. Welders are expected to be card carrying "Miracle Workers" !!! :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

went out to the scrapyard for some "real steel" and came back with this



the pipe probably came off of a trawler of some kind - about broken on the end and looks like it's gouged from a cable rubbing. 3/16" wall, 2" OD and 2.5" on tips, and 8' long to the break. After welding with this Miller, I just didn't have as much confidence with what I'd done on the arms - this will replace them.

Haven't a clue what I'll do with the I-beam, 8" across 5" flanges and 31" long - it was laying there so I grabbed it lol. The flat bar is really a "drop" from a 5/8" plate; it's 2" wide 48" long and I do have plans for it. That other piece on the floor has a swivel bracket on each end and says "Racing Dynamics" - not sure how it was used, but plan to make something with it to mount my transducer on. I've already broken it off mounted to the trolling motor - that way, I can take it out when I get into the shallows.
$25 for all

I REALLY DO like welding Aluminum; especially now that I have something I can get some voltage out of. That Lincoln I had was one of the "best ever" MIG welders I've used; but needed to go up to industrial grade. Some people say "Blue is better than Red"; then why couldn't I find a Lincoln somebody wanted to sell????

All of that aside, I'm back to the drawing board.... The plate came out great, but it weighs ten pounds on the money - and will be adding ten or more to it. Was going to trim it down anyway, but starting to think that a "full plate" is not needed there; that the middle could be void except for flat bar (top and bottom) tying them together.
that isn't much savings, but feel like every little bit will be noticed

I never like re-work, but welding that plate and all was enjoyable, even if it gets thrown away - and it won't!!!

 

[jrttoday]

can't have anyone thinking I'm goofing off; when did I start this thread :facepalm:




that's the worst end of the four on top, but weld will take care of that - took a little too much trying to make it start in the pipe easier.
No joke, two days work making them fit..... All 8 corners are that tight, had to hammer a little to get them in all the way.

Grind file grind file............................ now have to do the same to 3/8" plate for 1" bushing - will open up the last couple inches of pipe for clearance to motor brackets; e.g., bottom end of pipe in vise would be cut back 2-2.5" (gap extends about an inch) to weld 3/8's plate to 5/8" flat bar but 3/8 to extend the full length of pipe (11"). Of course, both arms the same.

OR maybe not? gotta look at it some more.... this would be way easier with the other arms that are just about made; but they're a few pounds heavier than these and I'm not to certain about how they'd hold up? Aluminum cant's stand a lot of (repeated) welding on - at least not with certain alloys.

 

[jrttoday]

Backing up for a second, said earlier that I welded that plate from the edge towards the center. Reasons were with the wire speed and wire diameter, plus real good heat (voltage); would have blown through by the time I reached the end. For reasons of distortion, you should run from the center out.

I could have welded an inch on the ends and then come back to them, BUT, then I'd have to grind them first to tie in. You really need to grind/burr your stops and starts w/ally. The plate was secured well enough to weld towards the center; even then, be careful!!

 

[jrttoday]

took ALL day to make that one piece; my neighbors will be glad when I'm done !! maybe more than me lol





amusing, nah, am using 5/8's bar instead of 3/8" - that'll give me a 1/4" more hole, might taper the end? Won't be touching the steering arm regardless - bushing is only 1" long. But you'll see that it makes that flush with the outside of arm; giving clearance from arms to brackets with only a nylon shim. Might use SS washer there also.



It's so tight, I really did have to use that mall to drive it in all the way. It isn't welded yet, that's just reflection from flash. 1/4" bevel all around - it's important especially with ally to CLEAN both pieces underneath!!!!!!!! Heat will suck everything into your weld

Still haven't decided on whether or not to drill holes in the arms first, then put a spare tube and braces (build a jig, maybe or all); build it then line bore holes in drill press - just don't have a drill long enough, have hole saw but too short. Possibly put an extension with socket on hole saw, but kinda wobbly is my guess??? ANY SUGGESTIONS!
OR, build it and take it to a machine shop.......... and wait!! LOL really, I am in a hurry :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

a close up shot



3/64 wire (MIG) is not be as exacting as TIG duh; less than a 3" weld on 25.2V and 485ws - might could've stood a little more wire. Tiny bit of I.F., blend that out with burr bit. With any Aluminum MIG, you HAVE to be moving; with 3/64, you have to be flying!!
More than likely additional weld as the rest gets built.

Going together like a jigsaw puzzle; I have a picture in my head and make the pieces to complete - making adjustments as necessary....

 

[jrttoday]

what I'm looking at now; hole saw made bigger than a 1-1/8" hole ='s more scrap!! Have a Morse taper shank coming Monday; it's 12" long - line bore it



8" I-beam split to eventually make the 7'5" spread needed - clearance and shims will determine final width. 5/8ths flat bar welded to flanges for bushing depth. Rectangular tubing welds to bottom of beam to stiffen etc. And ears for trim pin weld to tubing.





I-beam is 11" long, steering tube holes to be 1-1/2" back from front, making it shorter. 9" off steering tube is where I THINK the plate should be, but we'll see...




Speaking of thinking LOL, I've got to get my 100 up in the air to make some measurements and see where it's all at (even though this is going on the 115). With the t/t laying on that cart, it's hard to tell; am thinking the stand it's on is about the same pitch as my transom. Which is good cos some of this stuff will be easier done in position than to try make some half-baked measurement - can also tack or weld off of it

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Man, that's a big ole bunch of aluminum. Very curious to see where all this goes. I don't get to weld aluminum at all, mostly low carbon steel. I like stick welding more than mig, that just me.

 

[StarTed]

Hey,

Before you got all that aluminum you should have given us a heads - up. We could have invested in the aluminum industry.

Is that boat going to float?