can of worms?

[jrttoday]

two 1/2" plates fitted together for each side - the added plate is for head clearance on 5/8" bolts through transom; t/t mounts to that. Which will allow "some" lol downward movement IF I'm too high; w/o having to redo a bunch!!!






I quit using flash cos you really couldn't see; maybe try red eye reduction? :lol: The bead on bottom plate was one big wash; don't need strength there, just tie in from being beveled.
If ya can see that bead on top that ends at the burr bit; top bead welded first, then bottom bead. Typically, that's how I weld ally, top bead then come back with the bottom - carbon steel the other way. No worries of trapping slag, complete fusion is what you want. It seldom makes much difference how your beads look - COMPLETE FUSION is what's critical.

I have no doubt cheap or small MIG welders CAN make prettier welds, but they cannot weld this big wire. NOR, can they weld thick aluminum; voltage, wire speed, and large wire is how to get penetration

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

testing LOL!! computers top the list of things not skilled at :lol: trying this route for pics. Braggin minus the "B" lol. Taking forever, but...... put the (jack) plates up just to mark for drilling.

Plates need a little more work and will be connected with flat bar top/bottom as well. Once it's mounted for good, the "thing" goes in and finish out lower bracket to motor

PS--- think I'd just as soon compress pictures and load 'em - thoughts/preferences?

 

[chevymaher]

I got a image reducer program. I go from the phone directly into it. reduce. Save the full sized in my computer folder. And upload the reduced ones here. The things we go through for the boats.

So your about ready to put your beast motor on?

 

[jrttoday]

The things we go through for the boats.

don't get me started on that!! lol Seems like every time I've said two more weeks, two months go by.... But I am getting close(r).
Feeling like and hoping the nit picking geometry is done? I like geometry and that isn't the problem - under-tooled IS!! and could use a third hand, or fourth.

 

[sphelps]

Looks much better hanging on the boat than on the bench ..I was kinda lost with all the aluminum parts and pieces .. :twitch: Now I see things more clearly ..

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

almost hate showing work not yet completed..... Have more trimming down to do; as it is, have a few degrees (10?) negative trim bottomed out. Cavitation plate roughly 4" above hull; which is max and more than I'll run. But like said.... dialing it in. The front of the "thing" needs come down another 1/4 or so....

If you can see the lower bolt coming through the motor bracket; it's reversed, nut on outside so I can loosen and adjust w/o doing the 5200 again.
Haven't yet decided on "how to do the landings for trim rods".

When I make the piece to cover and attach the swivel bracket down low - figure that out then.
Just about answered the question I've had all along, "will this work?" - yup

 

[jrttoday]

sphelps HEY!! I've had my doubts too, really!! I could envision it, but couldn't explain it. But let ame ask ya, what's the best way to get that oil stain out? It's 2 stroke oil from when I had that motor heavily oiled before I ran it.

 

[sphelps]

Maybe some Dawn dishwashing soap and a scrub brush ..Might get most of it idk ... Gojo maybe ?

 

[jrttoday]

just figured out, as computers are not my forte; I can "right click" on an image and open in another tab or new window depending upon the picture. Then "CTRL +" for zoom.

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

this is crude compared to today's equipment, but not making crankshaft journals. I squared off of the rectangular tubing inside because it's the truest and best point of reference. 1/4" bit is 18" long; got it as close as possible, then made up the difference on the press table.

After making the pilot hole all the way through, went back and bored the inside of tubing with that 1-1/8th hole saw that makes larger holes lol. Think I found the trick? lots of water to flush the filings away keeps it from being oversized.

No matter, went with 1-1/16" on the outside for bushings - left me maybe 1/32 to file/sand. Hot off the press, can't really see much there? but there's a small gap between the 1" thick bushing landing and the tubing - it's just how things worked out (bottom hole)

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

OMG!!! can't believe I'm this far along :lol:
The bushings are not in, just the tube. Lots and lots of adjustments here and there, grinding, and cleaning etc. BUT, she's coming along...

Welded brackets for trim cylinder before boring steering tube hole; didn't want any possible distortion affecting that. Still have to drill hole for it too - just sitting there. It may need come down another 1/4"? we'll see.
Starboard drain hole (also to keep tits on stock swivel from hitting) needs come down 3/32"?? not much. There's been SO MUCH work on this I keep jumping around and leave stuff as I get distracted by other things that have to be considered.

edit.... JS, the pieces I welded on the sides/rear are hitting the t/t brackets and holding it up some - need to be cut down some anyway, and that's where I'll get a 1/4" from.

 

[chevymaher]

Lookiing good there.

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

thanks, it will never look factory, oh well... In this picture, moved nothing but held camera down low. What needs dishing out more can be better seen - at the top of motor brackets.

9/16" plate was dished out w/grinding wheel before installing trim cylinder brackets - I've got 5/8" clearance in the position it's in. Coming down a 1/4" isn't a big deal

 

[jrttoday]

No Title

it started to rain so I quit - water seen on first pic. SS washers will be used for shims on tube, but she fits nicely.
We've got to know our limitations, or else.. I've been pushing mine very hard for awhile now without disaster; it was time I pulled back some. But might could have continued on as I was; and found out how good a job I had done/ was doing.

Took the "thing" to a machine shop because I had second thoughts about "how exact those two holes need to be"; I spent four hours nonstop on the first hole getting it as close as I could. Began on the other hole next day and to start bringing them together; only to decide I just didn't want to do that much work again , my head was exhausted from the day before.

Replicating the first hole would be near impossible with the tools I have (feel and sight mostly) and certainly didn't feel like doing exponentially more work than I had done first go round. My limitations - taped 80 grit paper on a socket/extension and hand drilling to finish out holes. The bushing went in firmly/snuggly 11/16", then it took pressure to bottom out; but the tube wouldn't go in without binding.
Machinist said he chucked up on the first hole and took out .003 line boring it to the other hole (I had not worked on, but was guessing 1/64"). Odds are, I could have finished them both out and this thing would work, but.....those second thoughts.

He made three passes for a total of .016" cut out of the other hole completing the line bore (1/64 is .015625). Two hours later, I was headed back home But was worth $50 to know its dead on?.and to prove this technique accurate once again.

Sitting down about where I want it...... ***** Just wondering about negative trim???? As shown, the bow needs go down a few inches for the hull to be level. Really don't need much downward trim.... unless towing another boat.

The quick measurement lol is 10" offset from top of transom. Cavitation plate 3.5" above hull. Can go up another 3/4", probably not needed; and down 2ish", doubt that's needed either.

Remaining work - splash plate on front of swivel bracket (also tieing the bottom of pivot tube off)(which may not be necessary?), repair edges where tacks were etc, drill hole for tilt cylinder and do something for trim cylinders, drill grease holes, put everything else back together or ON!!! and GO FISHING!!

 

[jrttoday]

speaking of limitations, took me two days to make the one piece. A band saw would be nice!! but Sawzall, grinder, and file..... First made two strips of flat bar (3/8" thick) welded on inside of sides. Fits tightly against vertical webbing for pivot tube - lower bolt is steel for now, gets replaced with 11" SS later.




The back is cut out of tubing and the face off it fits flush on upper swivel bracket webbing.
Plan is, I have 12" ally channel to cut using the flanges to make angle ally; sort of just making smaller channel for a cradle for another piece of rectangular tubing to go at whatever angle that is to trim cylinders.

Need to come off the face 1/2 or 3/4? because I don't want to spin out the seats that far. And most likely a gusset at the top.
There's still no point to finishing off edges; may have to tack this thing down some more.
My cat, "Crappie" is always around lol

There's a factory hole in the bottom on starboard side only and thought to drill straight through for another bolt, but it might not leave any pivot tube wall? Thinking not even necessary; anyone seeing a problem, don't be shy!!

 

[jrttoday]

two days on the other piece was "some" figuring out what's next. This will be coming off the swivel bracket for trim rods.



had to brace it real well to weld 3/8's bar in the bottom - for trim seats to be bolted. Then 3/8's bar welded inside for rigidity. Takes a minute to make these fit real tight, plus beveling on all sides. Oh... if I had a shop.... it'd still take awhile.
Ends on tubing are mitered a bit and one corner is dished out for tilt cylinder clearance.

Nothing to brag about.... You get a lot of smoke with straight Argon; especially in a hole!! Even with 75/25 (Helium/Argon), you'ld have smoke in a hole; but it pretty much brushes out. With mixed gas, the puddle is cooler and you have more control over it - which is what I'm used to. And it was difficult working that monster gun inside a hole that measures 2x4.5"




Thinking I need to brace the ends? but have to do it that the nuts on the seats can be tightened etc.

 

[jrttoday]

I figured minimizing the flex that might exist in the sides will take care of the ends. Good thing I measured before tacking, was off an eighth. Bottom of pic is what I dished out for tilt cylinder.
Even with the best of fits, aluminum can give you a fit!! Braced that off too.



got it welded but it's late....

 

[jrttoday]

as an afterthought, cut holes to plug weld because weld is harder and the pounding the seats will take.



ground flush, then countersunk and drilled for trim pedestals. Good thing I made the holes/weld oversize because I moved 'em a tad.



That's bottomed out, stuff just sitting there, will be trimming that down - need to raise it 1/8th + or - for it to be lined up. Feeling like it needs a small gusset top/bottom???? HELP!!!!

 

[chevymaher]

I can't help I am learning this from you.

 

[jrttoday]

heck, I'm learning too... "It isn't the body that needs rest, but the mind" - at least, so they say. Figuring and refiguring, thinking and rethinking, plus working and reworking...... just needed to step back to think again LOL!!
It just seems to me that there's a lot of unseen force right there. The brunt of the horsepower hits on those pedestals and trim cylinders; and Aluminum will flex if it's not braced properly.

Off the top of my head, thinking a vertical brace in the bottom, horizontal in the top; but welding them in those tiny holes...... OR, skin over the top/bottom doubling the thickness; might accomplish enough????
Might be overkill? but somebody on here says "overkill plus a little more is enough"