Capri 1750 Complete Restore :) & 9 Months to do it too!

[dezmond]

Good day so far. Sanded, routered the edges at 45's, oversize drilled the drain hole and cut out the key hole for the transom.









Checked for level from the boat to the transom and spot on





I was able to use the gasket from the drive to check my sizes. It is narrower on the sides for sure. So I drew my layout, made sure it was square and cut it out. I left a bit of room to trim with the router if I need to.





And finally a nice drink of resin and slow hardener on side one. Will do the other side later today and then ready for some fairing on the areas then need some attention before I lay some glass on...

Nice and shinny

 

[oldrem]

Nice progress! Moving right along!

 

[dezmond]

Nice progress! Moving right along!

Yepper Nice and warm in the shop today. Have it at 21 degrees in there. Love going out and working in short sleeves..

I might be getting a little anal but I want to fair out both sides of the transom before I install it in the boat... Should I be? Or will the PB help fill the little voids etc. ?

 

[kcassells]

Fairing it to a 45 angle will save you a lot of pb time. You will need to redip the rought cut edge. Then you can glass right over the new angle.
Looking good Dez!

 

[dezmond]

Thanks Guys.. Well while I'm waiting for the resin to cure on the transom, I decided I should keep moving on and got the first section of the stringers cut and a coat of resin on one side. The tops were 45'd so when I glass it will be much smoother to go over the tops. I made them long enough to go just past the gas tank bulkhead. That way it's one piece from the transom forward. This should be a good spot to splice in my second piece. Also it was the same height all the way to that point so it was much easier to make . Having a small garage doesn't let me get too far ahead so this is probably enough for tonight. One thing I do like about Eeeeeeepoxy is that has almost no smell. Maybe I can get the wife to let me to some of it in the basement where I have a lot more room..... Maybe

 

[dezmond]

Second sides of transom and stringers soaked with resin tonight. So question. With epoxy, how many coats? Also when I’m ready to install the transom do I need to scuff first? Or just wipe with acetone and PB away? Hope to have the jig ready and installing the transom Thursday night.

 

[dezmond]

Oh ya. Another question. Do I need any cloth on the back of the transom before I PB it in? Has a good coat of epoxy resin on it now.
Thanks again everyone.

Dezi

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd scuff the back side with 60 grit to the PB and "Bite" into the resin. No Cloth Needed. I'd do two coats on the back side. One on the front. You'll be adding more resin and Fabric to the front so you'll have plenty of strength.

 

[AShipShow]

I'd also spend some time with a grinder up near the top of the transom and grind out all that dry glass and voids. You can build that area up with PB when you install the transom. You want your tabbing to go onto solid glass and that's definitely not solid.

 

[dezmond]

Will do. Plan is to get it all cleaned up in the back and ready to install new transom by this weekend. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[dezmond]

Well I think I did ok.... Guys? Let me know if you think I'm ready to install the transom.. I ground for about 2 hours to make sure it was all cleaned up around the transom and where I will need to tab, etc..... I think it looks good. Just need to give it a good final wipe before I PB the transom in...











AND CRAP!!!! Once again I put a slit in the back on the side of the transom... Hope this will be an easy fix... Anyone?? Help???







And I found the best tool to use in tight corners...



Just need to be careful cause this thing takes the resin down FAST!!!! I think I will use it on the channels where I will be bedding my stringers in. Make sure it is cleaned up good....

Having fun still Enjoy thinking about how to do the next step, all the ideas of the new interior and center console etc.. I sooooo can't wait till I can splash this next summer.. I need to come up with a nice paint scheme as well as flooring... Not too sure which way to go yet...

Thanks again and talk soon

 

[dezmond]

For reference, I ground all the way to the top where the hull and cap meet. I took the bolts out that held the cap together by the transom. I will be able to re-install after I do my glass work back there....

 

[Redtruck12]

You’re catching up to me Dez!
I’m dying to find out more about the jig/fixtures you have been talking about for drilling the keyhole!
if it works well for you I’d truly appreciate some advice and tooling on mine (also a MC1 but a1974).
i cut my transom at a full depth 45deg and it worked out really well, basically NO fillet, not much more than a smear to smooth out the transition. Glass laid on super easy, no bunching, bubbles or lifting.
you can check mine in my 1974 Duo Vagabond thread.

 

[dezmond]

I will have to go check your thread out I picked up 3 different drill fixtures today. I will get photos posted by tomorrow night. Buddy said he’s not using them so keep them as long as I need . If none of these work he has a bunch more. I will get measurements and see what’s what with all your advice here. Also I can model them up in solidworks and we can get some machines up.

 

[dezmond]

You’re catching up to me Dez!
I’m dying to find out more about the jig/fixtures you have been talking about for drilling the keyhole!
if it works well for you I’d truly appreciate some advice and tooling on mine (also a MC1 but a1974).
i cut my transom at a full depth 45deg and it worked out really well, basically NO fillet, not much more than a smear to smooth out the transition. Glass laid on super easy, no bunching, bubbles or lifting.
you can check mine in my 1974 Duo Vagabond thread.

Where you located? I’m in Delhi Ontario

 

[Redtruck12]

I’m just up the road in the south end of Cambridge. Probably about 40 minutes or so.

 

[AShipShow]

In my personal opinion, I think you need to keep going on the transom... All of those light color areas are resin starved glass, I had the same issue on my boat and ground down through those areas. It left me with a few low spots that I ended up having to fill with PB with lots of chopped fibers in it. This got it back to nice and flat before installing the wood.
Thats just my $0.02, maybe Woodonglass will chime in with a different opinion...

 

[dezmond]

Ok. I will do some more grinding to get the dry stuff off. Make it nice and flat.. I have some sanding boards I can use to help that out...

As promised, here are some pics of the 3 drill fixtures I picked up. Hope some of you guys can chime in with ideas of what these are for? Let me know what I should do for measurements...







Plan to make up my clamping jig tonight with some threaded rod and 2x4's. Plan is still on to have the transom glued in by Saturday.... Then first half of the stringers maybe set in PB on Sunday.. Maybe.... Can I join them in the boat? I think it would be easier for me to do them in the 2 sections in the boat so I can start to get some firmness back as I build. Bulkheads will go in next then I will glass and tab everything together.

Thanks again everyone

Oh ya.. Going to cut my sides and top of the transom to a full 45 as well so I don't have to use soooooo much PB to feather out the edges..

 

[dezmond]

When using PB to glue the transom in, do I just need to spread it on the new transom? Or do I need to put it on both Transom and outer skin??

Thanks

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

I did both to make sure there weren't any spots that got missed or thin spots, it will ooze out and then just work it into fillets. After doing mine I would leave the fillets short or small so that you can put a little new PB down when you go to tab it in. Makes working the glass much easier with fresh/ soft PB

As far as the grinding, id say if those light color spots are good and stuck then your good. If there's any flaky stuff or stuff that wants to pull up by your finger nail then that stuff needs to go.

Fixtures look like there just for drilling. The guide drills for the steering cut outs would be nice to have. It would be nice to design one that would serve as a drill guide and a cutting guide for sizing the hole.