Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

[Otte]

My hope is that some of you are not enjoying your boat today and and the time to answer some questions about my vro to non vro Evinrude conversion. I will ask the questions and post pictures individually. I have checked my primer solenoid and it falls within specs. I have gone through the threads about converting a VRO to non VRO fuel pump but need to particulars installing these items on an Evinrude '89 50 hp VRO. Pictures and questions below.

Thanks

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars



I plan to run new hoses so I simply cut these free from the VRO pump. Two of the hoses (top and bottom) went to the upper and lower carbs and the middle went to the primer solenoid. My question is - Will I re-install this part - new - and run it the same way with the new fuel pump? Does it matter which hose runs to which carb or primer from the fitting?

 

[joelybob]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

don't cut anything more till you get more info

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars



Here are the hoses that come from the fitting above. Are these generic fuel lines or is this a marine application line only?

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars



Here is the new placement of the fuel pump as I saw from tashasdaddy post on vro to non-vro conversion. Two questions on this picture.

1. Does anyone know the size screw from the outside attachment bosses?
2. The middle plug, that will be removed before new fuel pump goes on, this that the new vacuum pulse for the pump from the engine?

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars



This was connected to the VRO pump and leads to the engine (crank case?). Is this hose the old vacuum pulse for the VRO pump? I think there will be a need to plug and clamp this hose. Correct?

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

don't cut anything more till you get more info

My heart jumped a bit but I only cut those three because I could not get them free without undo pulling. All over hoses were removed without cutting.

 

[pn]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

the only line that is particular(special) is the pulse hose, it's gotta be semi ridgid because it transfers a pulse, has particular bends and maybe even a spring inside. if you read the vro conversion sticky on the top of the forum the change over to a regular pump is pretty straight forward, post when you have an issue.

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

the only line that is particular(special) is the pulse hose, it's gotta be semi ridgid because it transfers a pulse, has particular bends and maybe even a spring inside. if you read the vro conversion sticky on the top of the forum the change over to a regular pump is pretty straight forward, post when you have an issue.

I read the sticky before I started and it seemed very straight forward. However, when I dug in, I seem to have more questions. I have things fairly figured out by using this diagram. continuousWave: Whaler: Reference: VRO Fuel-Oil Mixing



going from left to right on the picture.

Fitting 1 = Vacuum pulse to engine.
Fitting 2 = Gas in
Fitting 3 = Oil in
Top Fitting (4) = Oil/Gas mix out to carbs and primer.

But the next two pictures show a loose hose connected to engine under the carbs and potential fitting on the air intake. This hose may have come loose when I was messing with the vro but now I would like to know where that hose should go. I believe the hose I have plugged is the pulse hose.





Bleh... spending to much time on this but still enjoying the learning parts.

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

This is what I have learned so far. The hose in question from the air intake manifold to the engine is the intake manifold drain and the hose takes the gas/oil to the lower cylinder. This hose keeps the engine shroud from getting oily. Here is where I learned some more about this nipple and hose connection.
http://forums.iboats.com/force-chrysler-outboards/intake-drain-hose-327318.html

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Okay - I got the new fuel pump and new hoses all hooked up. Put the H2O muffs on, ran 50:1 fuel and the motor fired up and ran like a champ. Man was I happy. I tilted up the motor with the electric tilt to check something out, went to put the motor back down... nothing. Hooked up the water again in the tilted position to check if it would fire up... nothing. "Crud" I said and checked the battery, wires, etc... thinking I messed up some wiring with my monkeying around. It all looks fine so I was at a lose. Did some digging again and found this video about a guy with the same problem on a Yamaha outboard. Yamaha 50HP Outboard No Power to Tilt or Motor - YouTube

I went looking around and in the fuse box I found a broken/shattered 20 amp fuse wired in-line to a red and violet wire! Yep, twas the fuse for both ignition and tilt and trim. Wife is picking up a replacement now so we will see if that takes care of the problem. My question is why did it blow? Coincidence or is it due to some sort of short due to the old VRO wiring still connected to the main engine wiring harness (red plug)? If I don't get an answer from you folks I will have one when I try the tilt and trim again in about 30 min.

 

[pn]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

good jobbie on the pump conversion, obviously you disconnected the vro pump connection when you burried it, right? if it's not gone then where is it? take a look at your wiring/connections for chafing through the insulation, suspecting somethings grounding out popping that fuse.

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Thanks pn. Wife just got home with the fuses but before I run out and blow one I figured I'd post a pic first. Here is what is left of the VRO pump and tank connection. The bigger bit hooked in to the VRO pump and the smaller bit hooked on the male end wiring to the old oil tank. I'll keep ya posted on the progress.

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Zooom!! Tilt and ignition work once again. Looked at the wiring and everything seems straight. I did test the red harness after establishing the battery was good to go and the leads from the battery to the engine and they tested fine. I simply was not getting power past that point. Fuse made sense at that point in time. Nothing like a 1 hour job taking 4 hours on a beautiful day in Michigan to fish.

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

This really ended up an easy job. If you are nervous about doing this yourself, don't be, for if I can do it you can. For those that may be interested and have any lasting advice - Here is how I handled my VRO conversion to premix fuel pump on my 1989 Evinrude 50 hp outboard.

New items for conversion
Sierra Fuel Pump - #18-7352
Fuel Pump for Johnson/Evinrude 382354 385781 388268 394543 395713 398338 398387 432451 433387 438556 - Sierra 18-7352 - iboats
Fuel Manifold - #395540 (OMC)

Fuel Hoses - not needed can use current hoses but I figured if I am at it then why not do the whole schebang.
- 2.5 feet of 5/32 for hooking up Fuel Manifold to Carbs, carb to carb connection, primer and the air in-take drain the bottom of crank case.
4.5" from bottom carb to bottom manifold connection, 8.5" from middle manifold connection to primer (thing with red switch on the opposite side of engine from new fuel pump) 5.5 inches from top carb to top manifold connection and 8" from air intake drain to crank case
- 13" of 3/8" hose to connect fuel tank to fuel pump intake connection.
- 13" of 5/16" hose to connect fuel pump gas out to fuel manifold gas in connection (largest of the four connections).
The fuel pump in connection was a little to big for the 5/16" hose so the 3/8" was needed.

With the exception of the hoses all connected to the fuel manifold, I took the hoses off one by one, measured, cut and installed the new hoses as I went along. I figured there was less chance of screwing things up this way.

Stumbers for me

This is the pulse line for the old VRO that needs to be plugged up.


This is the air intake drain nipple that is hooked up to the connection to the crank case.


I took the primer solenoid off in order to hook up the hose from the manifold to the primer solenoid. The primer connection is on the back so it is almost impossible to get at without a disconnect. Only two bolts so not a big deal.

I also took off my starter so I could move and see things better under, around and between the carbs, air-intake/air silencer cover and starter. Three bolts to take off the starter so, again, not a big deal.

In order,
1. Disconnected the battery to the engine.
2. Disconnected the starter from engine block.
3. Plugged the air pulse hose.
4. Connected the hose from the drain nipple to crank case
5. Disconnected the primer solenoid from engine block then connected hose from the manifold to primer solenoid, reconnected the primer to block.
6. Connected bottom carb to the top carb hose.
7. Installed the fuel pump here by taking off the middle brass plug (and promptly dropped it down in the engine case, rats) put the pump on with two stainless 10-24x 2" screws.

8. Put the hose from gas line, inside engine case, quick connection on and threaded the hose under the starter to the fuel pump, marked, cut and installed the hose on the fuel pump with the arrow.
9. Put the hose on the fuel manifold and threaded it to the fuel pump, marked, cut and installed the hose on the other fuel pump connection.
10. Reconnected the starter
11. Reattached the battery.
12. Mixed up some 50:1 gas/oil mix in the gas tank, pumped up the priming bulb.
13. Attached the ear muffs to the engine, turned on the water
14. Looked in boat and house for the boat keys for 5 min.
15. Came back outside and turned the water off:mad-new:
16. Went back in the house, looked for the key for another 15 min. Wife found it in 60 sec.
17. Re-primed the system.
18. Turned water back on.
19. Turned the key and Zooom!:laugh:

 

[TwoRivers]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Thanks very much for this thread. I recently purchased a 97 Evinrude 50hp.
The PO said he ran pre mix in it but it still has the VRO pump?
The motor sat for a few years and the carb bowls are leaking.
Waiting for parts to rebuild the carbs before dealing with the pump.
I'll be referencing your thread in the process.
I'll start a new thread when I get into it.
Wish you the best with your motor and fishing.
Rob

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Thanks very much for this thread. I recently purchased a 97 Evinrude 50hp.
The PO said he ran pre mix in it but it still has the VRO pump?
The motor sat for a few years and the carb bowls are leaking.
Waiting for parts to rebuild the carbs before dealing with the pump.
I'll be referencing your thread in the process.
I'll start a new thread when I get into it.
Wish you the best with your motor and fishing.
Rob

Thanks Rob. Glad to hear this may help you out a bit. I will check your thread out on the carbs when the soft water season is over. I am going to dig in to my carbs this winter.

 

[Otte]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Here is another informative link on VRO fuel pump to pre-mix fuel pump. http://www.justanswer.com/boat/34mbc-plan-change-vro2-pump-regular-conventional-fuel.html

I will put part of the information from the link here just in case the link goes bad.

"The drain fittings and hose between the air box and intake will stay no matter which route you go. It is simply a drain for the air box so any fuel/oil mix coming out of the throats of the carburetors doesn't stay puddled in the air box. It allows it to go into the crankcase to be burned instead of leaking into the lower cowling of the engine and making a mess.

I think I'm confusing you a bit by calling it a pulse fitting. It's actual name is XXXXX XXXXX limiter fitting and it is only 1 part. It's the fitting that actually screws into the crankcase with the pulse hose from the VRO connected to it. It must be removed and the hole plugged to convert to a conventional fuel pump. You could probably get to it with some specialized wrench or socket without removing anything, but trust me it's a lot easier to disassemble things. Start by disconnecting the battery and the fuel line from the fuel tank. Remove the air box cover, then the air box base. Next disconnect and remove the starter. At this point you should be able to see and access the pulse limiter fitting. Go ahead and remove the VRO assembly then remove the pulse limiter fitting. It will still be a little difficult to get to, but it can be done. Once the hole has been plugged you can re-install the starter or wait until after the fuel pump is mounted, your choice.

On your engine you can completely remove the one side of the lower cowling to make things a lot easier to get to and work with. The picture below shows how the lower cover splits. Remove the bolts I have circled in red and you can slide the side of the cowling off. 3 of the bolts are inside the cowling, 1 outside. The grommets where the fuel connector and wiring harness go through the cowling will slide out of the cowling so you can completely remove it.

Before installing the conventional fuel pump remove the plug from the center of the mounting location. Bolt the fuel pump on with the gasket and then start connecting your hoses. You will need some 5/16" ID fuel hose, just make sure it's marine rated and ethanol resistant. It's Evinrude part number 772564 if you're planing to go through a dealer. Just run the hose so it doesn't crimp anywhere. The front fitting (plastic) on the conventional fuel pump is the "in" side from the fuel tank. The back (brass) fitting is the "out" side going to the plastic fuel distribution manifold. There is no pulse limiter fitting like for the VRO. The fuel pump has a hole in the back of it that lines up with the hole in the crankcase at the mounting location. This provides a pulse from the crankcase to work the diaphragm in the fuel pump.

The plastic fuel distribution manifold splits the large hose coming from the fuel pump or VRO pump into 3 smaller hoses going to each carburetor and the primer choke. It has to be flipped over from how it is now to work better with the conventional fuel pump. Just disconnect the small hoses, flip it over and reconnect the hoses. If you plan to replace the small hoses it is Evinrude part number 329695. Most dealers will have the smaller and larger hose in stock and be willing to sell it to you by the foot instead of having to buy a whole roll. You will also need some new tie straps for your hose connections, part number 320107. These are a specialized radius type tie strap meant for hose connections. I would say get about 20 of them so you have a few spares in case one or two break on you.

Once all of your hoses are connected reconnect the fuel tank gas line and pump the primer bulb to make sure you have no leaks. Put everything back together, re-connect the battery and you should be good to go. Just make sure you are mixing your fuel & oil at a ratio of 50:1 (1 pint of oil to 6 gallons of gas). You will actually be over oiling the engine at idle and lower speeds so you may also want to run a carbon treatment in your fuel every few tanks. Just follow the directions on the bottle and don't add too much.

Converting to a conventional fuel pump will probably cost you around $150.00 - $200.00 in parts, but you will be saving at least that much in labor. Another benefit of the conventional fuel pump, if it ever goes out you can rebuild it. The kit costs around $20.00-$25.00 and you can get the fuel pump off without having to disassemble everything like you do for the VRO. The down side is of course having to premix your fuel/oil and the over oiling at idle and lower speeds."

Quoted from John White - Marine Tech.

 

[fontleyroy]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Hi Otte, great info on your posts. I just started my conversion and have done everythibg except flip the supply manifold over. Did you do this and do you know the reason why this must be done? Thanks, Hurdy

 

[donelwell]

Re: Conversion from VRO to non-VRO - '89 Evinrude 50 hook up particulars

Had my motor a 40 HP '85' model. changed over to non VRO. New gas tanks, Old ones metal (Yikes) took out on river and hadn't run 200 yds when alarm went off. Checked to see if water was coming out of Pee hole, there was. I knew that I was running 50:1 gas mix freshly mixed. Went back to shore. There is a wire that goes to the VRO that the mechanic just cut and then dropped it in the bottom of the boat. There was a little bit of water in hull, as the boat took off, the wire that is connected to the motor was shorting out. Causing alarm to go off. I peeled the wire out of the boat and back to the motor and disconnected at back rear side of engine. No more alarm and sense of satisfaction that my ol Johnson will continue to do me good.