Cracking around prop

[stourm]

I also posted this in the prop section of the general board before I found the maintenance and repair section below it so sorry for the double post. This weekend my wife and I bought our first boat. It is a used boat, but I thought that it was in good shape and a good buy for the price. It is a 1980 Procraft, 17' long with a 140 hp Evenrude engine. The floor was solid, all the electronics work, and it was garage kept for most of its life when it wasn't being used for fishing. According to the owner it was kept in a covered slip during the fishing season. The engine runs good, but there is severe oxidation all down the engine from where it sat in the water in the slip. I am a little worried about some cracking around the prop area that appears to have resulted from years sitting in the water. I don't know enough about boats yet to know whether or not this is an issue, and if so, what I should do about it. I am going to try to post some pictures here for you guys and really hope to hear back from the very seasoned and expert boaters here at iBoats so I don't make a rookie mistake and ruin the motor. Oh, by the way, I paid $1600 for this boat and motor along with three older depth finders, boat cover, foot powered trolling motor, and trailer. Do you guys think it was a good buy? Thanks for any help you guys can offer.

 

[splitshot]

Re: Cracking around prop

I dont know about everybody else but the metal on that foot looks pretty thin to me...might be time to start looking for a used one..and probably wouldnt hurt to put a water pump in it if your goint to use it for now...but some of the pros will be along in a bit to chime in

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: Cracking around prop

Yes, I agree. You need to replace the lower leg unit on that motor or you might get water in the gear box. Is this motor used in salt water alot? Looks like it to me. Just asking. Thanks, Bob

 

[ezeke]

Re: Cracking around prop

The propeller looks as though it was mounted without a thrust bushing. This forces the prop into the gearcase and causes the damage that you see.

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

The person I bought this from i san older man and has owned it since at least 1990. It was probably never used in saltwater because he lived in western KY and I live in west TN, and neither of us is anywhere close to saltwater. One question I have is can that area around the prop be reinforced with welding? When doing some looking around on the internet I read where several people said that the areas around the prop could be welded to repair cracking, but I don't know the limitations or areas where that could be done or would be recommended. If that is a possibility, then it might be easier than finding a 1977 Evinrude foot (I think that is the year that this engine is.) I wouldn't even know where to begin looking for a used foot for this type of engine.

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: Cracking around prop

Look on Ebay they sale alot of good used Johnson/Evinrude parts for a good price. If not someone on here will chime in and let you know.

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: Cracking around prop

Stourm,
I found this lower unit on Ebay that might work for you. Look at it and see what you think? 160315996012 Take care, Bobby Autry

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

I have hooked up a motor flusher to it and cranked it up and I moved the throttle lever forward quite a bit to make sure that it engaged and it appeared to do fine. The prop spun much faster and water started pumping out of the holes toward the top of the engine instead of just toward the bottom part of it when I moved the throttle forward. I don't know if this helps or not, but I hope that it means that the gearcase hasn't been compromised. It seemed to run like any other engine so is there any way I can tell if it has been damaged beyond using it the way it is right now until I can find the part? Any responses on the possibility of welding it if it hasn't gone too far to cause damaged within?

 

[splitshot]

Re: Cracking around prop

Be real careful not to go above 1000rpm on the water hose it wont pump the volume you need and it could "run away" that means when you rev it, it keeps reving higher unitl it blows...even if you bring the throttle back down it keeps going higher...

to check the lower unit pull the drain screw on the foot it will be the closest one to the bottom on the starbord side (right side if you are behind the motor looking forward at it) it will take a flat head screwdriver (a big one ) carefully unscrew this plug and if gear oil comes out your good, put the plug back in...but if milky oil or water comes out not so good...there is a nylon washer that seats under the head of the drian plug dont lose it...it is one of the many things that keeps the water out


you might want to buy a Repair manual for the motor (ebay) and read it there is alot to be learned and its not as hard as you think i was in your shoes a year ago and i got the book and have been through my motor and it runs like new...try to get an oem one they have good pictures and go into alot of detail


As big Bubba said try e-bay and even craigslist they sell good used ones all the time..you can also check your local marine shops alot of motors blow up and people dont want to fix them so they sell the lower unit..it dont look like it can be welded to me its pitted pretty bad...others will chime in but i believe all V4 crossflow lower units are the same from 1977-1984 or until the looper came out..they are not as hard to find as you would think

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: Cracking around prop

Stourm,
Here is another one of Ebay, 320341978134. You might be able to take it of and get it welded but it sure does have alot of pitting from the prop area and up. I would be looking for another lower unit becuase it might be really thin metal where it is pitted really bad at. Take care, Bob

 

[ezeke]

Re: Cracking around prop

Most prop shops have welders who can do some amazing repairs. The first thing is to pull the prop off and put a thrust bushing in there before you have more damage.

If you could give the model number of the motor, the information you get will be more valuable.

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

The model number appears to be 140743S and it is an Evinrude. I checked that auction on ebay, and would love to know if the part listed there would fit my engine because if it would then I do not live too awfully far away from Louisville, KY. Also, I might check to see if some welding can be done to fix it. I just don't know what to do really, I wasn't expecting to have problems with it before I ever get to put it in the water. Oh well, I guess that is what happens when you buy used stuff. I just wish I had known because I probably would have passed it up. Oh well, stuck with it now and just hope I can make it work. I suppose now I need to try and find a manual for that motor. If it isn't too complex, I think I can do whatever needs to be done myself to replace that part. I am at least fairly good at fixing things as long as I have some instructions to go by.

 

[F_R]

Re: Cracking around prop

That gearcase is history. It will only break out larger chunks. Exhaust will blow out those holes and cause cavitation of the propeller.

If that motor was never used in salt water, it sure as heck looks like it was. What do you Kentucky guys have in your water anyway? Sure is a severe case of electrolysis.

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: Cracking around prop

Stourm,
Those lower leg units aren't that hard to swap out. I had to replace the water pump on a 1989 Evinrude 88 SPL V-4 outboard and it wasn't that hard to drop and re-install the lower unit, but I would have a friend help you guide the shaft rod in place as you raise the lower up onto the motor because when I did mine the shaft kept moving and wouldn't line up until my friend hleped me out by holding the shaft with a long pair of needle nose pliers. I live in Southern Illinois and wish I could help you out if I was close to you. Take care and if you want it done right and if it were me I would buy a lower unit and be happy with it. Take care, Bob Let me know if you get the lower from Louisville Kentucky he has a phone number I noticed on his add to ask questions about it. Just get the model of the transom bracket on the top left side looking at the back of the motor/outboard. Take care

 

[jonesg]

Re: Cracking around prop

How are the anodes?

probably long gone.!

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

I wouldn't even begin to know where to look for them, but if you can tell me where to search for the anodes I will. The pitting goes all the way up the engine to the "water line." Is there any kind of electrical malfunction that could cause the outside of the engine to be "charged" all of the time and speed up the process of whenever its in the water? Also, slipshot recommended up above to drain the oil out of the lower unit to see if it has water in it. If I do that...how do I put oil back into it?

One of the things I thought of, for the pitting on the rest of the engine, was to put some kind of protective layer, such as metal bondo, over the surface of it to help protect it from future problems. Is this even something that you guys would recommend? The metal doesn't seem nearly as thin as down at the foot but is still pitted and rough.

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: Cracking around prop

Hey Stourm,
If you need any help with removing the lower unit and this forum is the best I have ever came across then we will help you out. I am planning on dropping my lower unit from my new to me 70 horsepower Johnson out board on my pontoon boat to replace the water pump impeller even though it pumped water when it ran but I just want to make sure I have a fresh water pump impeller just for security and insurance. I would rather pay $23.00 off Ebay for a new impeller versus having yo buy a new power head for a couple of thousands of dollars and if you do buy a good used lower leg unit maybe the one from Kentucky for example I would put on a new water pump impeller at least and replace the lower leg unit oil and also buy brand new seals for the drain/fill plugs which you can get from the local Johnny rude dealer in town. You probably have a few of those Evinrude/ Johnson dealers in Kentucky where your at and they are cheap anyway. Just let us know how it turns out for you and get it ready before the boating season approaches. I am I leave for deployment in July this year but I plan on getting out a few times before I leave. Take care and keep in touch with us with what you decide to do. Bob

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

The person that I bought the boat from was in Western, KY but I actually live in Northwest, TN. Martin to be exact and there are probably plenty of places within decent driving distance such as in Paducah, KY or Jackson, TN. I think I have enough time to check around and find whatever I need.

 

[splitshot]

Re: Cracking around prop

thats weird that it hasnt been in saltwater wonder if the foot has been swapped before that was in salt water...fresh water shouldnt pit one like that...i have a 1960's 18 horse johnson that my grandpa used to fish every weekend and it looks brand new compared to that one...it was in fresh water also...mighty strange, just get the manual it will explain everything for your motor

 

[stourm]

Re: Cracking around prop

Actually, I suppose since it is a 1977 model motor and a 1980 model boat, that the its original engine might have been replaced at some point with one that spent a lot of time in some saltwater. It isn't just the foot, but the pitting occurs the length of the engine all the way to where the waterline would be as it sits in the water. I wouldn't mind pulling that plug just to check the gearbox oil and see if it has been compromised. I suppose if the oil doesn't have metal shavings in it or water then the seals are probably still intact? Do you have to pull the lower unit off in order to refill the gearbox with oil? I assume that you do.

I wanted to say thanks to EVERYONE who has responded so far. You guys have been great and I never expected to have such good responses so quickly on a Saturday night. I really appreciate it.