Cruise Craft Restoration

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

not to bad, it's glossy black with 20 years of chips etc. I want to paint it white. what did you have in mind?? cheers
 

Tinkerer

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 15, 2003
Messages
760
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Without seeing it it's hard to know which of the base preparations for an existing coating is better.<br /><br />The aim of the exercise is to fill the chips and put a smooth surface on the box to take the paint. The better your preparation the better the finish as gloss finishes really show up any imperfections. But just remember that what might look like a crappo finish close up looks fine in general use.<br /><br />I'd suggest you go down to Super Cheap auto and get:<br /><br />Spot putty in a tube<br /><br />Spray putty (maybe)<br /><br />Spray filler / primer which is thinner than and different to spray putty<br /><br />Prepwash (Wax and grease remover)<br /><br />Epoxy white spray paint. <br /><br />Cheap versions of everything are OK except for the epoxy. Get VHT or K&H or Wattyl KillRust as cheap ones might be bad. If SuperCheap don't have them get VHT and K&H at Repco or AutoBarn or KillRust at Bunnings. They're all worth the extra money over cheapo coatings.<br /><br /><br />Clean control box with degreaser and / or detergent.<br /><br />Prepwash control box carefully and wipe off prepwash and allow to dry. Won't take long. Then do it again. Prepwashing gives you a really clean surface free of things that will stuff up subsequent coatings. Prepwash is also a great solvent for various spray coatings so be careful in using it on fresh coatings or you may have to strip everything off and start again.<br /><br />Fill chips with spot putty. Don't overfill or leave it around the chips as it's awkward to sand on small items. Acetone is a good solvent if you need it when the putty has dried. Bunnings usually has it and some auto stores carry it. Sand spot putty and all surfaces smooth working down from 400 to 800 to 1200 grit.<br /><br />Spray with spray putty. Sand as before down to 1200 grit.<br /><br />Spray with filler / primer. Sand down from 800 to 1200 or 1500 grit.<br /><br />Let dry for at least 24 hours. The cans will say a much shorter time but it gives things a chance to cure before you put the final coating on.<br /><br />Very, very lightly damp a clean rag with prepwash and very, very lightly wipe over the box. Too much prepwash can act as a solvent.<br /><br />Spray with epoxy white. Mist it with light coats but make sure they're fully wet or you'll just get dull sandy sort of finish. Make them too wet and you can get practice in sanding back sags and runs. But if you put the main surface so it's horizontal you can practically drench it and it'll just level out nicely.<br /><br />If the surface isn't too bad you could probably get away with filling with spot putty and careful sanding to feather the edges into the existing paint, or maybe a coat of filler / primer as well.<br /><br />Why not experiment on something that doesn't matter first to get an idea of what's likely to work?
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Tinkerer, mate that is a great post. I will follow your directions exactly. Much appreciated. i shall take before, progress and after pics and post on the hosting site below. BTW, should i apply and clear coat at all over the top? cheers
 

Tinkerer

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Messages
760
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Originally posted by tengals123:<br /> Tinkerer, mate that is a great post. I will follow your directions exactly. Much appreciated. i shall take before, progress and after pics and post on the hosting site below. BTW, should i apply and clear coat at all over the top? cheers
Mate, fer Chrissake don't follow my instructions exactly or it'll be my fault if it turns out bad!<br /><br />I've never used a clear coat except on brass and other metals so I can't say. A good epoxy will give you a long lasting hard surface.<br /><br />The critical thing to remember is that paint manufacturers share the same dishonesty, sorry optimism, as food manufacturers, e.g. take food out of freezer and put in conventional oven for 20 minutes then eat. Yeah, and it's barely defrosted. They want us to believe that everything can be done quicker than it really takes.<br /><br />The epoxy coat won't cure fully for maybe a few weeks. It'll be soft for a few days if you want to lean on it a bit, but it'll be dry to the touch on the surface the day after you spray it. Just see how easy it is to get a fingerprint into even a day or two after the last coat.<br /><br />Resist the temptation to handle it. Leave it for a few days before touching it and you should have a finish that'll last for years and years.
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

yeah, i shall leave it for a few weeks before i install it. I have sooooo much to do to this boat before i even think about re-installing it back in anyway. I just want it ready there completed by the time it's ready to go back in. cheers and thanks again. cheers
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
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Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

When I painted my control box, I washed & dried the disassembled parts, then sanded the chips with fine paper so there were no edges, then sprayed with epoxy paint. The brand I used said not to use primer. So double read the directions. <br /><br />After the painted parts had set for two days, they were lubed and reassembled. I used OMC Tripple Guard grease on the bearing surfaces. Be careful because it did stain my paint where I got some on the outside of the control.<br /><br />It works real smooth and has nice firm detent at neutral. <br /><br />Cleaning and inspecting the springs, detent ball, cam followers and friction pad made it work nice. I found the resistance pad (like break shoe) had come free of its backing, so it was epoxied back together without any further problems. I also noticed that the cable anchor points for the "barrel" ends had some play. I used some hard vinyl as shims to make them fit tight. That took all the play out of the system, resulting in a very responsive throttle control.<br /><br />It is well worth the time spent to overhaul the control box.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 15, 2003
Messages
760
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Originally posted by Mark42:<br /> The brand I used said not to use primer. So double read the directions. <br /><br />
Marks is right. I'd forgotten that. Check the instructions to see if you use primer or not.
 

Mark42

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Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Just an FYI on epoxy paints:<br /><br />Back in '88 I used some Nybco brand epoxy spray paint. It sat for two days and was sticky and gooy. I called the 800 number on the can and talked to one of their chemists. He said the paint was probably old (it was) so the reaction with oxygen to harden was going to take a while. He suggested putting the piece (it was an antique steering wheel) in the oven on warm for 20 minutes or so then take it out. I did. When it came out it was still sticky, but by the time it cooled down it was hard as a rock. The chemist said heating it up will make it more "active" and react quicker with the oxygen to harden. Boy, he was right! I think Nybco has since gone out of business because I don't see their paints anymore.
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

ok, well an up date. I opened the control box to get the cables out and it's abit of a mess inside. I tried to put it back together, but i just cant get the two halves back together. There is like this brass knob on the face side of the fast idle lever and it needs to fit into the groove on the face side of the shift/throttle lever. Also everytime i try and mesh them together, the tension cam thingy keeps popping out. Ive almost lost it several times. It's just so god damn greesy in there. Leading to my next question. 3 spray cans $50-60, a few hours work, mucking around with cables etc.....you know where im heading with this. I can get one of these for $199AUD, but how does it operate the electronic choke???? what do you guys think?
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

sorry cant find a picture of it, but basically a new control, dont know how this will incorperate my elec. choke and fast idle lever??
 

Tinkerer

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Messages
760
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Originally posted by tengals123:<br /> ok, well an up date. I opened the control box to get the cables out and it's abit of a mess inside. I tried to put it back together, but i just cant get the two halves back together. There is like this brass knob on the face side of the fast idle lever and it needs to fit into the groove on the face side of the shift/throttle lever. Also everytime i try and mesh them together, the tension cam thingy keeps popping out. Ive almost lost it several times. It's just so god damn greesy in there. Leading to my next question. 3 spray cans $50-60, a few hours work, mucking around with cables etc.....you know where im heading with this. I can get one of these for $199AUD, but how does it operate the electronic choke???? what do you guys think?
If you want to keep costs down, do what Mark said about sanding and feathering the chips. One can of no-primer epoxy will do the job for $15 or so.<br /><br />Don't give up because you can't put it back together yet. <br /><br />The people in the factory had to be able to assemble it, so you can too. <br /><br />You just need to work out how to do it.<br /><br />Think it through and see if you need to tape or clamp something in position during part of the assembly process. They might have used some aids in the factory but you can probably make one. <br /><br />It's often counter-intuitive. Maybe you need to part assemble it in some fashion and screw it down a bit and then insert a bit that will be held but couldn't be when you have just two halves.<br /><br />I've been through this on various things and usually managed to work it out sooner or later. I've also broken a fair bit of stuff beyond repair from rushing at it.<br /><br />You'll get a sense of achievement from working it out.<br /><br />Try an internet search for the keywords on your control box. It's amazing what people put up. Maybe it's in the manual for your motor, unlike mine.
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
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Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Did you try assembling it with the tensioner backed all the way out so there is no tension? Just a thought.
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

thanks for the replies. Im sure i'll get it back together soon. Im away for easter so i wont try until next week. The tension looks like it's happening due to a cam things between a metal plate and the throttle/shift lever. I'll work it out. Now that i think of it i'll spray the old one. cheers
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
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Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

so im working on the boat all day tommorrow, should get some good progress. I'l post pics of everything. cheers
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Ok, the next pics of the day's work are up in the link in my sig. cheers
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

*UPDATE* - Just purchased resin, ply, fiberglass, paint, fuels lines, hardware, under floor fuel tank, I have booked in the upholsterer, and have confirmed my order for my new 5 piece walkthru screen. I have also chosen my deep blue coloured marine carpet. My 'WHITE' 5 gauge set is also on it's way. Actually got 15% of most of the stuff because I bought it at at one place. cheers
 

Tinkerer

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 15, 2003
Messages
760
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Ze control box, she is looking nice, yes?
 

Mark42

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Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Power buying...good way to go. Looking at the pics of your open control box remeinded me of doing mine. Some things that came to mind - It's a good time to check all the connections on the switches. If crimp connecters, remove and clean the spades, re-assemble and put coat of liquid electric tape. I had a switch that was plastic with a plastic plunger. It came apart easily and I was able to clean the burn marks off the contacts (solid brass). Also lubed up the plunger on sides and end so it will last another 30 years. Little pieces like that switch are a total pain in the butt if they break because replacement parts generally not available. So it pays to review every little piece in there. I also recall paying special attention to the ignition switch, but I can't remember if I opened it up to clean contacts or just cleaned the exterior connections. <br /><br />I figured it was worth the extra time to make sure everything was in good working order. Saves me time, trouble and money down the line. Especially when a little cleaning and lube can make a hard to find piece work another 10,000 cycles when serviced instead of only 500 if neglected.
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

thanks guys. <br />1st, tinkerer - yes, she is looking nice. Well worth the effort, thankyou again for your superb input on this matter.<br />2. Mark42, you are correct. I am going to pay special attention to the area's you noted. I must admit, the 'inners' look pretty good.<br /><br />I think im going to by some nice tassie OAK, machine it into a nice lever grip, stain and varnish it and put it onto my new box. cheers
 

Tinkerer

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Messages
760
Re: Cruise Craft Restoration

Originally posted by tengals123:<br />[QB] I think im going to by some nice tassie OAK, machine it into a nice lever grip, stain and varnish it and put it onto my new box.
Nice idea.<br /><br />Will add class.<br /><br />If you're going to stain it a dark colour, maybe think about jarrah or red gum? Hard on tools but a lovely dark finish. The real old red gum house stumps and fence posts have beautiful dense red grain and shine up a treat off the tools. Coat of clear and it'll outlast the boat.
 
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