engine fumes in cuddy

Bob's Garage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
590
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Well, I still am unable to make out the pictures, too dark. However, I think you guy's have figured it out.

What I don't understand is why you are getting water in there. Especially from the bilge. I would not expect water from the bilge to be able to get that high up the bow slope. Unless there is a LOT of water and you don't indicate that is the problem.

How much water are you talking about? A wetting of the carpet, or standing water like a puddle?

Block off the hole, no harm done, and see if the wetting continues. If it does, the water is coming from somewhere else.

Remember, water flows down hill unless forced to act differently.

You are describing water that not only is moving up hill, but jumping across the gap between inner and outer hulls. Or else there is so much that it must seek relief by flowing out the hole. Seems so unlikely.

So plug the hole and see what happens.

Your boat is constructed of at least 3 sections:
  • The outside hull
  • The inner liner - made up of the sole (floor), and the sides and any walls between occupied areas. This inner liner can be made up of more than 1 piece.
  • The top cap. This is the cabin roof, gunnels and transom top

The overhead of the compartment is the bottom (inside) of the top cap.As a result you have 4 other possible potential points of entry for water into the "forecastle" compartment;
  • They are the screws holding the bow light
  • The bow cleat,
  • Both chocks.
  • And then of course, there is the possibility of a bad hull/top cap joint.

Blocking the hole will permit further testing to find the problem area. And this is something only you can do.

Good luck.
 

veritas honus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
1,876
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Well, I still am unable to make out the pictures, too dark. However, I think you guy's have figured it out.

What I don't understand is why you are getting water in there. Especially from the bilge. I would not expect water from the bilge to be able to get that high up the bow slope. Unless there is a LOT of water and you don't indicate that is the problem.

How much water are you talking about? A wetting of the carpet, or standing water like a puddle?

Block off the hole, no harm done, and see if the wetting continues. If it does, the water is coming from somewhere else.

Remember, water flows down hill unless forced to act differently.

You are describing water that not only is moving up hill, but jumping across the gap between inner and outer hulls. Or else there is so much that it must seek relief by flowing out the hole. Seems so unlikely.

So plug the hole and see what happens.

Your boat is constructed of at least 3 sections:
  • The outside hull
  • The inner liner - made up of the sole (floor), and the sides and any walls between occupied areas. This inner liner can be made up of more than 1 piece.
  • The top cap. This is the cabin roof, gunnels and transom top

The overhead of the compartment is the bottom (inside) of the top cap.As a result you have 4 other possible potential points of entry for water into the "forecastle" compartment;
  • They are the screws holding the bow light
  • The bow cleat,
  • Both chocks.
  • And then of course, there is the possibility of a bad hull/top cap joint.

Blocking the hole will permit further testing to find the problem area. And this is something only you can do.

Good luck.

Bob and LippCJ7,

When I first discovered the little pool of water in the bottom of the anchor locker, I assumed that it was coming from the navigation light at the bow. I had been assured that that couldn't be the case because the fitting is tight and there's a gasget under the light. When I found the hole in the picture I sent, I just assumed it was coming through there. This morning, I did a closer inspection of it, and found that it's not even a hole. It's more of a small tapering tunnel. It probably is a rode guide for the anchor, but there is no anchor hatch at the bow. Maybe it was put onto every hull to accomadate the option of an anchor hatch... what are your thoughts? The bow eye bolts are down toward the bottom of the anchor locker, about 12" below this "tunnel/hole". As you can see in the picture, the inside of the hull at the bow is in need of a good cleaning which it shall get soon. some of the mustard colored filth flakes right off, I'm pretty sure it's only mineral deposits/hard water residue. Being that it's covering the inner hull at the bow, this leads me to believe that the top cap at the tip of the bow is leaking. There is no water staining on the headliner. What are your thoughts? I've added two more pictures...
Now it seems, in trying to solve a problem, I've revealed another... Imagine that:rolleyes:... I'm now wondering, once again, why my cabin smells like the engine compartment. My wife cleaned the cabin a couple of weeks ago and it smelled clean. after a day on the water, it smelled like the engine compartment again. I'll clean out the bilge as I should have done already. I'll put a hose on the bow and check inside (while the hose is running) for water intrusion. Any other thoughts? Thanks again.

Happy and safe boating always!!!
 

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Bob's Garage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
590
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

You need to be more specific about the smell. Is it exhaust fumes, burned or hot oil, raw gas fumes, a weak gas smell, dirty socks?

Orders can be subjective. Some orders bother some people and not others. Pretty hard to "compartmentalize" a small boat to keep out orders. You may have to live with it, or clean it constantly to stay ahead of it.

You are now looking in the right direction for the leak, just stay on it.

Luck!
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Bob and LippCJ7,

When I first discovered the little pool of water in the bottom of the anchor locker, I assumed that it was coming from the navigation light at the bow. I had been assured that that couldn't be the case because the fitting is tight and there's a gasget under the light. When I found the hole in the picture I sent, I just assumed it was coming through there. This morning, I did a closer inspection of it, and found that it's not even a hole. It's more of a small tapering tunnel. It probably is a rode guide for the anchor, but there is no anchor hatch at the bow. Maybe it was put onto every hull to accomadate the option of an anchor hatch... what are your thoughts? The bow eye bolts are down toward the bottom of the anchor locker, about 12" below this "tunnel/hole". As you can see in the picture, the inside of the hull at the bow is in need of a good cleaning which it shall get soon. some of the mustard colored filth flakes right off, I'm pretty sure it's only mineral deposits/hard water residue. Being that it's covering the inner hull at the bow, this leads me to believe that the top cap at the tip of the bow is leaking. There is no water staining on the headliner. What are your thoughts? I've added two more pictures...
Now it seems, in trying to solve a problem, I've revealed another... Imagine that:rolleyes:... I'm now wondering, once again, why my cabin smells like the engine compartment. My wife cleaned the cabin a couple of weeks ago and it smelled clean. after a day on the water, it smelled like the engine compartment again. I'll clean out the bilge as I should have done already. I'll put a hose on the bow and check inside (while the hose is running) for water intrusion. Any other thoughts? Thanks again.

Happy and safe boating always!!!

I don't buy it, I mean I don't think it's for the rode, I bet its a lift point to lift the hull out of the mold when its being built. If it was my boat I would be taking the nav lights and cleats apart and checking the gasket conditions even if it means tearing into the headliner. I'm grasping at straws here though.

I was laughing my butt off the other night, Thanks I needed that!
 

veritas honus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
1,876
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

You need to be more specific about the smell. Is it exhaust fumes, burned or hot oil, raw gas fumes, a weak gas smell, dirty socks?

Orders can be subjective. Some orders bother some people and not others. Pretty hard to "compartmentalize" a small boat to keep out orders. You may have to live with it, or clean it constantly to stay ahead of it.

You are now looking in the right direction for the leak, just stay on it.

Luck!

The odor is gas/exhaust fumes. I guess you're right. It will just have to be constantly cleaned... Kinda like a BOAT, huh?:D Thanks for all the help... I'll keep you posted;).

Safe and happy boating always!!!
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

The odor is gas/exhaust fumes. I guess you're right. It will just have to be constantly cleaned... Kinda like a BOAT, huh?:D Thanks for all the help... I'll keep you posted;).

Safe and happy boating always!!!

Is your blower motor working? or is there anything plugging the air flow? could be something to help keep fumes away from the cuddy....
 

veritas honus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
1,876
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

I don't buy it, I mean I don't think it's for the rode, I bet its a lift point to lift the hull out of the mold when its being built. If it was my boat I would be taking the nav lights and cleats apart and checking the gasket conditions even if it means tearing into the headliner. I'm grasping at straws here though.

I was laughing my butt off the other night, Thanks I needed that!

So you were laughing your butt off, huh? You think this is funny? What... I'm here for your amusement?:rolleyes:... I've been having a great time with this too:;).
As previously mentioned, there are no water stains in the headliner. I believe that rules out leaking cleats and navigation light. Bob mentioned the cap/hull joint. I think that makes the most sense, don't you? Tomorrow morning, I'll be heading to my In-Laws lake house for the weekend to help My Father-in-Law with the renovations they're doing. I'm going to run a hose over the bow while inside the cabin, searching for water intrusion. If the cap/hull joint is indeed the offending party, I'm thinking on terms of simply shooting some 100% silicon caulk into the area of intrusion. I have no idea how difficult it may be to remove and replace the exterior rubber bumper strip at the joint, or if it will even be necessarry. Being that the water is coming from outside, I would imagine it's necessarry. What are your thoughts?... Stay focussed now, we'll find something else to laugh about later:D.

Safe and happy boating always!!!
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Ok the rub rail that goes around the boat is pretty simple I replaced it on my last boat, you can order new which is what I did and they send you a new gasket that goes on underneath the rub rail frame(I think you could easily just silicone this too), then you screw the frame to the boat, the rub rail then pushes into the frame its really easy just time consuming. That could easily be the source of the water intrusion though theres probably 40 screws holding it to the boat, mine took me about 4 hours to replace on a 20' boat. Your way past post #69 now!
 

veritas honus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
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Messages
1,876
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Is your blower motor working? or is there anything plugging the air flow? could be something to help keep fumes away from the cuddy....

Blower works fine. I run it a lot; and it does, of course, help with the fumes. What do you mean by, "could be something to keep fumes away from the cuddy"? Do you mean that it coud help? If so, then yes. I do use it, and it does help. I guess when the fumes get in, they just linger and don't go away simply by leaving the cabin door open. I've got an 8" 12v oscillating fan which I havn't even opened yet. I'll clip it to the door facing out and maybe it will be enough to exhaust the fumes, and at least reduce the amount of fumes getting in. I'll let you know how that goes. It will be after the weekend, though. I'm going to the In-Laws lakehouse to help my Father-in-Law with renovations. This may be a criminal act, but I'm not bringing the boat with me this time. Too much work to be done. The weekend after next, though, (two weeks from now) the boat's coming with me... Less work, more play:). Again, I've been having a great time with this, glad you are too. Thank you again.

Safe and happy boating always!!!
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Blower works fine. I run it a lot; and it does, of course, help with the fumes. What do you mean by, "could be something to keep fumes away from the cuddy"? Do you mean that it coud help? If so, then yes. I do use it, and it does help. I guess when the fumes get in, they just linger and don't go away simply by leaving the cabin door open. I've got an 8" 12v oscillating fan which I havn't even opened yet. I'll clip it to the door facing out and maybe it will be enough to exhaust the fumes, and at least reduce the amount of fumes getting in. I'll let you know how that goes. It will be after the weekend, though. I'm going to the In-Laws lakehouse to help my Father-in-Law with renovations. This may be a criminal act, but I'm not bringing the boat with me this time. Too much work to be done. The weekend after next, though, (two weeks from now) the boat's coming with me... Less work, more play:). Again, I've been having a great time with this, glad you are too. Thank you again.

Safe and happy boating always!!!

Well I don't have a cuddy, I have a Bowrider so I'm not sure of how to deal with your exact situation, but my thoughts are that if you can keep the gasses from building up within the boat they have no way to linger? I think your engine fumes are probably gathering when the boat is not in use since you use the blower when your using the boat so how to air out the cuddy when the boat isn't in use is what I am wondering. Does your boat have a sunroof in the cuddy? can it be opened?
 

Bob's Garage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
590
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

One last bit of advise. Most hull/deck joint leaks are a result of water being forced into the joint while the boat is at speed.

Instead of running water over the bow, direct a stream of water into the joint from underneath the rail. If a leak is present you would be well advised to consider removing the rub rail, removing the screws in the problem area, cleaning the joint, then inject a sealer adhesive, reinstall the removed items.

Just injecting the sealer into the joint will result in a messy ineffective seal and you will have to do it again, the hard way.

And for future reference, those fitting gaskets are a poor substitute for applying sealer under the fitting and in their screw holes, they pretty much just keep the fiberglass from being scratched.
 

veritas honus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
1,876
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Can I not use the same rubrail after removing it? Or will it be torn up by removing it, no matter how careful I am?
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

yeah I suppose you could without issue if you have another set of hands to help you manage the frame, should be easy, or if you just want to run a bead of silicone down, take four or five screws out in advance of the bead, wipe the surface, silicone and screw back down. If you did this with a helper you could probably get it done in an hour or less! Mine was fugly so I added some bling in the way of a chrome frame!!
 

veritas honus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
1,876
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

One last bit of advise. Most hull/deck joint leaks are a result of water being forced into the joint while the boat is at speed.

Instead of running water over the bow, direct a stream of water into the joint from underneath the rail. If a leak is present you would be well advised to consider removing the rub rail, removing the screws in the problem area, cleaning the joint, then inject a sealer adhesive, reinstall the removed items.

Just injecting the sealer into the joint will result in a messy ineffective seal and you will have to do it again, the hard way.

And for future reference, those fitting gaskets are a poor substitute for applying sealer under the fitting and in their screw holes, they pretty much just keep the fiberglass from being scratched.

Will do... The navigation light, cleats, and rode guides are original equipment on the boat. Being that the leak is most likely not coming from them, I'd imagine they're sealed properly. Thank you again for the time you've been putting into my problems. I'll keep you posted...

Safe and happy boating always!!!
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

And for future reference, those fitting gaskets are a poor substitute for applying sealer under the fitting and in their screw holes, they pretty much just keep the fiberglass from being scratched.

So what your saying is its a good thing I sold my last boat bob!
 

veritas honus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 13, 2010
Messages
1,876
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

yeah I suppose you could without issue if you have another set of hands to help you manage the frame, should be easy, or if you just want to run a bead of silicone down, take four or five screws out in advance of the bead, wipe the surface, silicone and screw back down. If you did this with a helper you could probably get it done in an hour or less! Mine was fugly so I added some bling in the way of a chrome frame!!

Where do I start? I'm not at the boat now, but is the rub rail generally one piece? I don't recall ever noticing multiple joints. Do I simply (and carefully) pry the close end up, and go around to the point in question?
 

Bob's Garage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
590
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

A lot depends on the type rub rail you have. If it's like mine that is solid rubber, then yes you can reuse it if you don't stretch it too much. If it is a hard plastic or metal one and you damage it, then no.

In either case use care, and think about what you are going to do, have help to support it, then do it.

Some rub rails have an insert that hides the screws. Those can be reused or new screws can be positioned to new holes, but if you do that the old holes must be sealed.

All the rails I have seen are held in place with SS screws but that doesn't mean there aren't some out there that are glued in place as well.

Hull to deck joints on a lot of boats are only held together with screws, some are joined with an adhesive, while the best are a combination of the 2 with a backer for the screws. There is a lot of movement between the 2 sections and they can work loose over time, allowing the leak.

Enjoy.
 

LippCJ7

Vice Admiral
Joined
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Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Where do I start? I'm not at the boat now, but is the rub rail generally one piece? I don't recall ever noticing multiple joints. Do I simply (and carefully) pry the close end up, and go around to the point in question?

Mine was one piece and the joint was in the front center of the bow point with a cap to cover the joint, when they shipped it to me it was in a box about 6' across and the rail was spooled up in it, it was pretty soft metal so it bent nicely but it made sense why the joint was in the front since the metal simply lost the chrome if I had to bend it to fit the point of the bow. My cap had a screw on each side that I unscrewed and the cap came off then you pull the rubber out of the frame and the screws that hold the frame to the boat are exposed.
 

LippCJ7

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Sep 20, 2010
Messages
5,431
Re: engine fumes in cuddy

I don't recall saying that, or even implying it.

Sorry Bob I'm not being serious in the least my friend were having fun and I don't mean to offend you, your knowledge in this has been very helpful to both of us.
 
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