First post, first boat restore...

[Thelonghull]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Thanks for the tip!

 

[zopperman]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Have your sister fill out a bill of sale...

 

[Thelonghull]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

New questions! What gauges am I missing? Starting from the left as far as gauges goes I have an gas gauge, and to the right of that my speedometer. Switches starting from the left, I have my navagation lights, accessory switch, a basic on/off switch, and to the far right my horn switch. I will need to rewire the whole boat, I went to school for electrical so I know how a d/c circuit works, but what gauge wire do i use? Thanks for any help on this...
View attachment 122185

 

[JDA1975]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Disclaimer....My name is Judge David Ackerson....Your from MN., and in St. Louis County, MN. there is a Judge named David Ackerson, which I have been mistaken for before...Have contacted said judge in the past to let him know of my existence lol, So please don't think I am him lol. Any advice given is purely from an experience I have dealt with and/or researched for my own boat title, or lack thereof

 

[Thelonghull]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Zooper: The boat and trailer are registered to the same guy... I have to contact him, somehow and figure this out as his name is the only way the DMV will do anything...

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Don't know if this is possible but can you contact the Dept. of Natural Resourses or the Fish and Game or someone like that and have them run the hull number and see if they will give any info? There might be other agencies that might help other than the DMV.

 

[JDA1975]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

http://nsglc.olemiss.edu/Advisory/Abandoned Vessel State Laws w letter.pdf

page 71 deals with minnesota

As far as the guy who paid your sister to dispose of said boat, these are the laws he can use to get it legal for him to title/transfer to you, if its a possibility

A landlord must store the personal property belonging to a tenant who abandons the premises. The landlord has a claim against the tenant for reasonable moving and storage costs.

The landlord may sell or otherwise dispose of the property after 60 days and may apply a reasonable amount of the proceeds to the removal, care, and storage costs and expenses of any sale. He must pay any remaining proceeds to the tenant upon written demand.


The landlord must make reasonable efforts to notify the tenant at least 14 days prior to the sale, by personal service or mail to the tenant's last known address or usual place of abode and by posting notice of the sale in a conspicuous place on the premises for at least two weeks.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

New questions! What gauges am I missing? Starting from the left as far as gauges goes I have an gas gauge, and to the right of that my speedometer. Switches starting from the left, I have my navagation lights, accessory switch, a basic on/off switch, and to the far right my horn switch. I will need to rewire the whole boat, I went to school for electrical so I know how a d/c circuit works, but what gauge wire do i use? Thanks for any help on this...
View attachment 122185

This should really tell you the whole story...

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm​

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

There is really no such thing as "missing gauges" you can basically install whichever ones you want to have. To me one of the most important is a tachometer, but I've had some argue with that. Speedometer isn't really important..unless you just have to know. Volt meters are good to monitor your battery level and temperature gauges let you know your engine temperature (somthing good to know) Also I like having a water pressure gauge on my boats, lets me know the water pump is working well.

So in wrap up...it's really just whatever you want. Guages are available at most any marine dealer, here on iboats, or a host of other places on the internet.

 

[Thelonghull]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

New question! Going to wire the boat this week.. how do i connect the 14 gauge wires to the battery? I was thinking about using inline fuses on the positive wires. Any other suggestions?

 

[Thelonghull]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Woodlonglass, I totally understand that diagram, thanks for posting it! Just a few questions, do I use an actual fuse box? or just inline fuses, second question is The 12v from nav/anchor is that a switch? Or?.... I have a switch for nav lights is that the same switch just connect that to your gauges as well? Or is that just for the gauge lights... so they light up at night when your nav lights are on... Thanks for the help guys! Really appreciate it...Just an update on the situation... I contacted the person my sister got the boat from, turns out he bought some foreclosed land and the boat and trailer was on the land when he purchased it, so he is going to contact the bank (who he bought the land from) and get a copy of the title and sign it over to me

 

[JDA1975]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Woodlonglass, I totally understand that diagram, thanks for posting it! Just a few questions, do I use an actual fuse box? or just inline fuses, second question is The 12v from nav/anchor is that a switch? Or?.... I have a switch for nav lights is that the same switch just connect that to your gauges as well? Or is that just for the gauge lights... so they light up at night when your nav lights are on... Thanks for the help guys! Really appreciate it...Just an update on the situation... I contacted the person my sister got the boat from, turns out he bought some foreclosed land and the boat and trailer was on the land when he purchased it, so he is going to contact the bank (who he bought the land from) and get a copy of the title and sign it over to me

Glad to hear you can get your title problem resolved, As far as inline fuses go, they can be used...but it is a whole lot easier to diagnose problems if you have one neatly organized fuse box and a ground bank that is accessible. They make good marine grade ones that when closed are water tight. Nav and Anchor switch controls different lighting configurations based on the state of the boat. While at anchor you might want your anchor light on, but why draw a load illuminating your dash, etc.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Just a few questions, do I use an actual fuse box? or just inline fuses, second question is The 12v from nav/anchor is that a switch? Or?.... I have a switch for nav lights is that the same switch just connect that to your gauges as well? Or is that just for the gauge lights... so they light up at night when your nav lights are on...

I used one of these fuse blocks for my boat http://www.iboats.com/Screw-Termina...3357553--**********.629104737--view_id.163740 I highly recommend it. Makes things real easy and uses standard auto fuses. Nav lights are usually controlled with a 2 position switch. The first position just turns on your stern light (for when you're not underway) and the second position adds the bow nav light. I would also hook my dash illumination to that position.

 

[Thelonghull]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Thanks for the info! I started wiring the boat, have a few questions. I have a horn that came on the boat, What size fuse do i use? also i would like to wire in a basic car radio, and was also wondering what size fuse to use for that, and I have a humming bird depth finder that also came on the boat with no manual so I have no idea how big of a fuse to use for that. Thanks for all the info guys! this is a great forum for people like me who have no idea about boats, Im enjoying all the feedback and the restore! Thanks again for any input on this...

 

[herefishy]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Hi,

The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring. You do not want to allow more current to be drawn through the conductor than the conductor is rated to handle (without being damaged). I just installed a switch panel manufactured by Blue Sea. In the instructions, they had a very good chart on conductor current ratings for 12v and 24v power supplies. The temperature that the wire is used in, and it's length affect the recommended/rated current. In studying the chart, I determined that the 20A fuses provided with the panel were adequate. I don't have any conductors smaller than 14ga. that run any distance in my project, and according to the chart, I derived that 20A was fine. I'll study it again when I get to the wiring job, I may need to correct my understanding.

I'll see if I can find that chart to post.

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

 

[Thelonghull]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

Thanks for the info, actually wondering what fuses to use for the following:

Boat Horn:
Radio:
Depth finder:

Thanks for all the help guys...

 

[herefishy]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

It depends on what size wire you are using. Reference the chart I posted.

The device makes not difference - It's the wire you are protecting - NOT the device.

If you used 10ga. wire to feed the horn - you could use up to a 50A (maybe). If you use 18ga - do not exceed 15A, but also if you are using 18ga. in a conduit with 3 other conductors, do not exceed 11A of circuit protection.

It is "circuit protection", NOT horn protection nor radio protection.

You determine fuse/circuit protection according to the conductor. What sizes are the wires?

~Fishy

 

[JDA1975]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

you do want to protect the electronics themselves as well. If your radio cannot handle a surge over 20A or it fries, then you want a fuse that protects from that surge...a radio is expensive, you don't want to overload it. Most electronics have a built in fuse though, so if that's the case then don't worry as much. If you have multiple equipment on one circuit then you will want an amperage that covers the total draw of all equipment.

 

[herefishy]

Re: First post, first boat restore...

With all due respect - the radio / horn / appliance, whatever is the "LOAD", you cannot make it work harder, or draw more current by hooking to a bigger wire or a bigger fuse.

In respect to having multiple equipment on one circuit - you want to have a conductor with capacity to serve them all, but then limit the circuit (via fuses or breakers) to prevent the array from drawing more current than the conductor can handle and thus fail (perhaps resulting in non-repairable wiring, or even worse an electrical fire)

Again, the fuse or circuit breaker is "circuit protection" to protect the wires, FROM THE RADIO OR HORN, that might fail (i.e. short to ground), and cause excessive current to flow through the wire causing damage to the wire.

The question, what sizes are the wires that you are protecting, those which serve the equipment you are connecting?

Tell me the wire size, I will tell you the MCP (maximum circuit protection) to apply to your circuits. You can choose less if you want to (but a lower fuse size will not protect your equipment from failure). The MCP is based on the MCA (maximum circuit amps) of the electrical circuit (wires) as determined by the construction and arrangement of your circuitry,

~Fishy