Re: looking into fixing up my 14ft MFG Niagara. Any suggestions
Re: looking into fixing up my 14ft MFG Niagara. Any suggestions
.........(I suggest two layers of 3/4" pressure treated ply that has had a couple of weeks to dry, glued together with either construction adhesive or epoxy)......
Hey Mark (funny we have the same name and similar boats!)- Great advice. You've done a lot more to your MFG than I had to do to mine, apparently. I learn something useful most of the time I read your posts
matt9923: You are getting excellent information here.
I personally would not use pressure treated plywood, though. Just my opinion. I would use "fir" AC or BC or even CD with "exposure 1" or "exterior" stamp. Unless they have changed it in the last few years, I am of the opinion that PT plywood is way too corrosive to non-stainless fasteners. If the transom is capped properly like all the instructions indicate, and the two drain-plug ferrules are properly installed, he should not see water enough to rot for 20 years or longer if the plywood is properly sealed. PT is generally made with Southern Yellow Pine veneers; I feel a whole lot better about western fir ply.
I have the same boat, 14', but no splashwell, and no splashwell drains- must have been an option. As far as your seats and floors: I installed 16" steel pedestals (the cheap black ones from K-Mart) in 1995-ish. In fitting them, I was trying to get a sense of spacing in the narrowish beam of the boat, and clearance from the dash- close but not being uncomfortable. So I
temporarily screwed them to the floor with #8 stainless oval head wood screws. The floor in the Niagaras are solid fiberglass, and apparently rugged enough that (get this!) believe it or not: I never got around to screwing them down "correctly" but they are still there, same screws, never loosened, never pulled out
. I have taken the pedestals out a few times for various reasons, but still using the same screws. So unless Previous Owner was a complete fool, your floors
should be good and solid. I have never seen an MFG Niagara with a bad floor (here in Vermont). I would not cut the floor if you can avoid it. 2002 I filled all the OEM seat mount holes with flush-fitting white vinyl hole plugs from the hardware store, popping them in with 5200. I figured they would last a few years, and replace them if need be, but none have failed!
When I replaced my transom wood, I did it once the wrong way (95-ish), reaped the reward from that
and then in 2001-ish I cut out the inside fiberglass and fit my pieces in that way. I capped it with glass and resin, and actually installed 1/4" thick 2"x2" aluminum angle over the top of that as a bullet-proof top rail so no wear under the motor yoke clamps. Aluminum cuts nicely with carbide tipped blades on a tablesaw and router if you want to make nice edges. I spent hours polishing and countersinking for #12 stainless screws, and sealed everything with 5200. Yes, that was overkill. That happens to me sometimes
I took off my plastic windshield and buffed it. I have seen MFGs with flimsy windshields, and others with a sturdy aluminum-framed Taylor Made which is what I have. I laid it on cotton towels, and buffed it with Mirrorglaze Plastic Polishing compound. 2500 rpm and a cotton terry head-
don't try this with lamb's wool or synthetics or synthetic blends or chamois because they have too much friction and will melt or otherwise "swirl" the plastic. It is not perfect, but it is acceptable and safe, looks good, no more haze, and didn't require me buying a new one
Good luck with your project and pay attention to the info these guys are giving you- great advice, and stuff you can't get from a book.
