floor glassing question

[KCKracker]

when i took the plywood out for inspection i cut around the inside about 6" from the gunwales, so when i am ready to get the new plywood back down,

do i cut that existing lip out and glass it to the gunwales again
or go inside the lip and glass "to" the existing lip i left,
or go over the top of the lip
?
or does it matter?

 

[Lwarden]

Re: floor glassing question

Is that water in that second pic that ypur removing? if so I'll bet that foam was saturated and you might wanna check your stringers!

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

no that was rain water, got a surprise shower while i had her uncovered lol

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: floor glassing question

You should probably still take core samples of the stringers and transom with ?-⅜ drill bit. Wet/dark shavings are bad. Light/dry shavings are what you want. If that is what you find, seal the holes with 3m5200. Atwood makes a similar product found at Walmart if you can't find 5200 at Lowes or HD. Check the transom from INSIDE and only drill about an inch deep somewhere near the middle and down low.

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

:facepalm: is there anyone who can answer my original question?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: floor glassing question

The answer is to remove the lip and tab the new deck to the hull sides. However...what the guys are trying to tell you, and rightfully so, is...if you have not and do not core sample your foam, stringers and transom you may be covering up problems that will require your attention in the near future and will require you to tear out this newly installed deck. Better to check it all now while you have the old rotted deck removed.

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

the foam has been torn out, stringers are solid and side to side braces are being replaced today :joyous:

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: floor glassing question

That is the sort of wood I found inside my boat once I started some demo work, after taking core samples. It really didn't seem that bad to begin with and would have been easy to convince myself it was in okay shape if I hadn't really explored the boat.

Hope for the best, check for the worst!

Side to side stringers are called bulkheads. Check the transom?

I hope for your sake she is solid and ready to be redecked!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: floor glassing question

It's your boat, and you can do as you see fit, we're just here to make you aware and try to guide you to the safest and most economical methods of restoring your boat. Hopefully when you checked the stringers you did actual core samples by drilling into them and checking for dry shavings. The motor mounts and transom should be done too!

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

i know and you guys help is greatly appreciated! but im not there yet, im just trying to find out how my floor is going to get done because im just trying to find out if i need to cut that darn lip out while im doing floor demo today :lol: i have done a number of stringers and know what to look for, i have taken some samples all over and they are all coming our yellow dry wood, no rott except the cross bracing, which im doing as soon as i fond out if i need to cut the lip out lol

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: floor glassing question

Yep, the best way would be to cut all the deck out to the hull, all the lip! Run the new deck to a quarter inch away from the hull. Fill and fillet the gap with thickened resin. Better to do this than tab the deck to old deck.

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

Yep, the best way would be to cut all the deck out to the hull, all the lip! Run the new deck to a quarter inch away from the hull. Fill and fillet the gap with thickened resin. Better to do this than tab the deck to old deck.

Thank you ! ok so i dont want it tight against the hull? my resin wont just run down into the gap?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: floor glassing question

Check this link...
"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: floor glassing question

No. Wood on the hull creates a hard joint. As the hull flexes, this hard joint can cause stress to be applied unevenly and give cracks at the joint. Resin can be thickened with cabosil and chopped fibers to be very thick and hold a shape. We call it peanut butter, because it has a similar consistency. No ha d joints applies to stringers as well.

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

ok i will read that, so someone said no seams, but ill have to have seams because 1 sheet of plywood isn't big enough, so my seams end up being where?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: floor glassing question

Try to make em fall on the bulkheads or stringers. If not use cleats to support them and cover with CSM strips

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

also is there a specific matt i should use over that or does it matter? i have been offered some biax, is that ok?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: floor glassing question

On the deck I only use 1.5 oz CSM mat. Biax is used for Tabbing for the deck and full layers on the stringers and the transom. All of this is in the link I provided.

 

[KCKracker]

Re: floor glassing question

what is tabbing?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: floor glassing question

You really need to read the link I provided. It has all the info you are seeking. Tabbing is the use of 10 - 12" strips of CSM or Biaxial cloth to secure a horizontal surface to a vertical surface.