HELP with laying new section deck, couple questions

Lukelona

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Working on it for a few hours today. The more help from y'all the faster I can work! Thanks all for being so helpful!
 

JASinIL2006

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Luke, what covered the gas tank area before you pulled it up? Was it fiberglassed plywood? Did it seem springy when you walked on it? That does look like a pretty big span to cover with 1/2" plywood without any support.
 

Lukelona

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Luke, what covered the gas tank area before you pulled it up? Was it fiberglassed plywood? Did it seem springy when you walked on it? That does look like a pretty big span to cover with 1/2" plywood without any support.

Yes it was ply covered with glass. That was where the bad spot was in the deck actually. Go figure lol
I'd brace the heck out of it but there's not much room between the deck and the tank. It's roughly 2.5' span across it.
The wood was rotten but it's possible it was 2 pieces thick of ply in that area, but I can't be sure
 

Suprathepeg

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I have an 89 Maxum, same problem. We just gel coated the glass on the new floor and threw down some sand on top so its grippy but not hard to clean. Next year I plan to put tuffcoat on.
 

Lukelona

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I have an 89 Maxum, same problem. We just gel coated the glass on the new floor and threw down some sand on top so its grippy but not hard to clean. Next year I plan to put tuffcoat on.

Ya that's what I'm thinking. Did it hide your repair? Or can you see exactly where it was cut out and stuff?
 

JASinIL2006

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What's the max thickness your deck can be in that area and still sit flush with the surrounding deck?
 

Lukelona

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What's the max thickness your deck can be in that area and still sit flush with the surrounding deck?

I could use 3/4 ply on that spot. There's 2-3" between the fuel hose and deck level.
How would I go about bracing it to support the "patch" piece of wood over the tank?
 

JASinIL2006

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How was it supported initially? Was it sufficiently rigid that way, or was it too messed up when you got it to know?

I'd be inclined to try one of two different ways (I'd mock up some pieces to see how well they work first). I'd either (a) double up plywood where you can, then glass both sides with several layers of fiberglass and resin or (b) glass a single layer, then brace it underneath with steel angle iron screwed into the patch.

Just glassing the patch will help quite a bit with rigidity, so I'd firs cut a piece of plywood to fit, and see how rigid a single layer of plywood is. Then I'd consider whether additional bracing is needed.
 

Lukelona

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It was hard to tell how it was braced. Putting in angle brackets would have to screw them to the stringers correct?
 

Lukelona

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I think there's a support piece built into the stringers. It looks like maybe the ply was doubled and sat on this in that spot.
How can I support where the two ply pieces meet?
I'm thinking using angle iron screwed and sealed to the stringers so it supports both pieces of ply.

When I finish this floor layer in, I really don't want to use carpet. If I coat in in glass and paint it or gel coat it, will you be able to see the repair?
 

Lukelona

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See the piece attached to stringers towards the left? It looks like if you doubled the ply, the bottom piece could rest on that support. Make sense?
 

Lukelona

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So I just went the and looked at my scrap wood pile from taking it apart, the piece of wood that was here was 1/2" ply, and at the seam between it and the back section it had another piece of 1/2" connecting the two sections.

If I use 5/8 ply and double it, and let the bottom section underlap the rear, and screw it all together... should this be strong enough to not flex? It will all be glassed also.
 

Lukelona

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By the edge it the hull, there's no stringer, when I lay the new deck down, is it ok for it to rest on the hull?
I'll tab it in with glass, but will this make a hard spot causing stress on the hull bottom?
 

Lukelona

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Can I change the name of my post? I feel like I'd get more help with what I need NOW rather than what I thought I originally needed. Lol
At first thought the seat bases were my issue! 😁😁
Now I really need help with this floor work!
ANY help is always appreciated! Trying to get this ol girl back on the water ASAP!
 

Lukelona

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Ok gonna try to lay new deck down today, when I cut it out I just cut what was bad, so now my cuts don't match from one side to the other.
How should I cut this new deck to lay it? Some kind of template?
 

Lukelona

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I'm laying new section of deck down, at the edge of hull it is at a angle about 30?.
There's no stringers until about 1ft from edge.
Do I just let it rest on hull and tab it in?

This would also leave a gap about 1/2" deep thickness, and about 2- 3" wide. How can I easily fill that gap? It would take a lot of mat to fill, could I use a fiberglass filler like Bondi? Then glass mat and resin over that?
 

jbcurt00

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Luke, since you asked about changing the seat base topic, which turned into a deck repair, I merged the 2 topics into 1 under the most recently started topic.

The pix you posted are here now.

More pix wouldnt hurt though.

I would put it back similar to how the factory did, just sealed better. If the old deck was supported by the chine, run the new deck over to the chine and bed it just like you should a stringer.

But my initial impression hasnt changed. There was a lot of damage to that seat base and surrounding deck to be an isolated problem. Perhaps it is/was. Thats extremely uncommon though.

I got your PM, but havent replied yet.
 

Lukelona

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Thanks jb, everything was in good shape except a little wet foam, which made one spot in bulkhead start to rot. It was just a 1/2" sheet of ply inflated with glass....smh
It started to rot a little bit of the stringers, I dug out the bad wood until good wood. And I plan on adding a piece of ply in there and filling with resin, then encapsle it with csm.
This should get me by until I feel like doing a complete teardown in a few years right?
 
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